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  1. #1

    Can someone explain the flow of water through the exhaust

    Question is in the title but can someone help me out and explain to me what the flow of water is through the exhaust?

    It is a yama XLT 1200. Reason why I am asking is I need to winterize it but I can not start it. I do not have the garage space nor the time right now to fix the issue but do plan on working on getting it started in the next couple of weeks. I am trying to figure out how to put antifreeze into the system so it does not freeze up outside (live in New York and its getting cold). I just do not want to back antifreeze up through the exhaust and into the cylinders.





    Now that I am thinking about it, I might as well ask this here as well. Ski will not start due to a "W.TEMP" alarm. I took the sensor out and tested it in both ice cold water and boiling water and got to correct readings both times. Anyone know where I should check next? I am going to go through and checking to make sure the wiring is tight but I am really hoping it is not the CDI.


    Thanks
    Doug


  2. #2
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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    Water temp is usually a bad sensor in the pipe. I usually bypass with a 10K ohm resistor. If that doesnt do it it may be in the wiring from the CDI to the sensor, or the CDI module itself may be bad.

    Water flows from the pump, thru the strainer on the left side of the pump, then thru the transom plate (bottom hose left side), thru the flush Y to the black plastic water manifold on the bottom of the exhaust manifold. It travels thru the exhaust manifold to the bottom of the cylinders, then up and exits thru the cylinder head into the U pipe. The entire exhaust is jacketed, and the water travels thru the U pipe jackets to the stinger (past the rubber coupler), then exits into the waterbox. There are a couple extra exits. Bottom of the exhaust manifold exits into the U pipe, top rear of the stinger exits the right side of the transom, top of the U pipe and bottom of the stinger boot exits out the front on each side

  3. #3
    RaiderMagic's Avatar
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    WFO, perfect! thanks for making that clear. I have the same ski.
    As for a winter antifreeze flush.. any idea of best spots to add coolant? (like from a jug spout)

    Where are the best spots to add antifreeze for flushing?
    Adding through the flush line basically just dumps it out go the rear(past the Y coupler.)
    I know the Yamis are self draining but 'just in case'. Any preferred spots to add?
    Using a gravity pour I'd like to get as much in there as possible(while running) in a short amount of time. *& is it ok to add coolant to any hose/passage if its not running?
    Thx in advance!

    hopefully this helps dpalms too

  4. #4
    put a vice grip in the rear compartment on the line going to the pump then with electric pump, pump the gallon through the hose flush port. easiest way.....

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    WFO

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    CJ's gpr's Avatar
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    i bought a small pump to push the antifreeze through the cooling system, this is what most people do i assume

  7. #6
    Do you have to worry about backing water up into the heads with an electric pump? Not sure how much pressure it takes to back it up but I would assume it would back up through the water box into the exhaust and then up into the actual cylinders? To my understanding, that is always why you should never hook a running hose up to a ski that is not running.

    Yeah I do not think its the sensor because like I said, I checked it in ice cold water as well as boiling and ohm coming back were within spec (cant remember off hand what the exact numbers were). Checked the wiring and didn't find and lose or cut wires. I just wish there was a way to tell for sure the it was the computer before I order a new one.

  8. #7
    yes this should be done running! unless your using a pressure washer a small electric pump with 1gallon of rv anitfreeze would be fine ;0)

  9. #8
    RaiderMagic's Avatar
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    so, clamp the rear hose after the plastic Y coupler. this will force the antifreeze through the other hoses & ...out of the pissers?
    I'm Not using a pump, but rather a gallon jug on a hose adapter, it's hard to get a gallon into the system in under 15 seconds(run time). Thats why I was asking about other possible hoses.

    I guess I can turn my bilge pump into an antifreeze pump since it's not installed yet.

    it's funny how every thread you search says to 'add antifreeze for flushing' but not 1 tells you how to do it successfully.
    To get enough AF into the system in a 15 second run time(even multiple runs) it ideally takes a pump of some sort as 1) gravity isn't fast enough, 2) gravity won't have enough volume or pressure to fill the upper lines/passages.

    thx guys.

  10. #9
    CJ's gpr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dpalms View Post
    Do you have to worry about backing water up into the heads with an electric pump? Not sure how much pressure it takes to back it up but I would assume it would back up through the water box into the exhaust and then up into the actual cylinders? To my understanding, that is always why you should never hook a running hose up to a ski that is not running.

    Yeah I do not think its the sensor because like I said, I checked it in ice cold water as well as boiling and ohm coming back were within spec (cant remember off hand what the exact numbers were). Checked the wiring and didn't find and lose or cut wires. I just wish there was a way to tell for sure the it was the computer before I order a new one.
    make sure the ski is running and no dont worry about it backing up into the cylinders, pumping the antifreeze would be the same as running off the garden hose, it is being pushed through

  11. #10

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    In the 25 years I have winterized our waverunners in northern Indiana (winters to -20F sometimes) I have never used antifreeze in them. Rapping the throttle a couple of times out of water is all they need. If it is an unrunning boat, tilt it up high on the front, and crank it over if you can. If you are worried after that, pop out the Sound suppression system and empty it, and do the same with the waterbox. The engine is self draining unless the waterbox is full.

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