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Thread: bad magneto?

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    eb87's Avatar
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    bad magneto?

    I continue my search as to why my ski in not charging and discovered the voltage regulator is good (tried on another ski) and the wiring is good so....what goes wrong with the magneto inside the PTO? I can't understand how it can go bad. All help is greatly appreciated.


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    Boost addict hotbird's Avatar
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    Short to ground? I would think you could ohm it out like you do a 3 phase motor. Also meg it if you have a meg tester and know what your doing.

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    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    you need to measure the stator output and trace that all the way thru to the VR.

    Stators fails for a number of reasons

    physical damage from sheared flywheel bolts

    electrical damage from shorts

    vibration causing faults in one or more of the coils

    damage to the wiring from assorted vermin

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    wkuadam07's Avatar
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    There are 3 wires that are colored the same coming from the rear pto cover, those are the stator wires. Ohm each to ground, if any have continuity to ground then you will know what happened when you take the pto cover off. If they don't ohm to ground ohm them to each other 1-2,1-3,2-3, if all three results are within 10-15% of each other then the stator is good, check AC output voltage of these three wires while running. I think the AC should be in the 60-100 volt range on each wire depending on the RPM.

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    eb87's Avatar
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    I did most of that, all pins to ground from the stator showed infinity and output at idle was 25Vac....yet my output from the voltage regulator is zero. That same regulator works perfect on a different ski

  6. #6
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by eb87 View Post
    That same regulator works perfect on a different ski
    unfortunately, that doesn't count, but it does narrow the scope a little.

    I'd pay some close attention to the harness electrical connector for the regulator

    http://www.globalspec.com/reference/...-of-tolerances

    accumulated tolerance is the reason one ski can have a super cherry and smooth engine while the very next one can be the dog of dogs.

    In the simple view:
    SPECS:

    piston=1 inch +/- .5 inches
    Cylinder bore=1 inch +/- .5 inches

    have a piston that is 1 and a cylinder that is 1 and it's a cherry
    have a piston that is +.5 and a cylinder that is 1 and the engine seizes quick
    have a piston that is -.5 and a jug that is +.5 and you have a rattler.

    of course in real world the values are smaller, but you get the idea.

    I suspect the connector to your VR is +.2 and the pins on the regulator are -.2

    that means a poor connection and no voltage output

    to check for this sort of issue, you need to bare wires between the connector and the regulator too see of the AC is really making it in and what the actual DC out is.

    when a regulator fails quite often I've found that the connector gets snookered for overheating.

    First thing I go for when a do it yourselfer shows up with a box of new regulators and "none of them are any good"

    those blue squeeze on taps are handy to have to test for this..they don't do a whole lot of damage to the wires and the are easy to get on and off with no shorts

  7. #7
    eb87's Avatar
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    I use that site quite a bit for specs, thanks!........ Well I shot all the wires with the meter set to micro because I'm convinced it must be related to wiring and sure enough, the fuse holder has a bad connection that when in the right (or wrong) angle it works, which it did the first time I checked it....so there you have it, all that crap for something so simple. Thanks to all who took the time to answer.

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