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  1. #1
    C-Phase's Avatar
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    Thank you for this site ! New PWC owner here, GP800. I have a few questions please

    Hello,
    I need a PWC like I needed a hole in my head, but I think I got a great deal and couldn't pass it up. I got a 99 GP800 with a whopping 75 hrs on it for $500 bucks. This also included a load rite trailer. The ski was parked in my neighbors garage for about 5 years. She's a little dirty on the surface but has cleaned up nicely since this photo.



    Once I got it home and a good battery in it, I found the starter would spin but not engage the flywheel. After doing some reading (I found the service manual here) http://www.autocd.info/autocd/WV/GP8...8197-1A-11.PDF I was able to remove the 8 bolts in the stator cover and access the Bendix drive. I soaked it with WD40 and got it free and working.

    With the engine now cranking I got it started with little effort.
    The fuel tank was empty when I got it and I put in 5 gallons of fresh gas and a bottle of sea foam carb cleaner
    I took it out yesterday so see if the jet drive and water pump was working and they work fine. The issue I have is it wouldn't stay running unless I kept the choke out and kept pumping the throttle. It ran, but not good.

    I loaded it back up and back in the driveway, I tried starting it just for the hell of it and it ran fine with the choke in and would rev up fine .....

    I suspect the carbs might be gummed up from sitting and was hoping the sea foam would clean them out if I ran it. I plan on changing the fuel filter and think it has a water separator too, that I could drain ??

    Short of pulling and rebuilding the carbs, what else am I overlooking or do you think I should try? I don't have a users guide for it.
    The good thing is winter has set in here in NJ, so I have time to fool around with this project and want to have it in top shape come March.

    And finally what speed should I expect from this machine?
    I've never owned a PWC, I always had boats and still have two and now this. The wife says our driveway looks like a marina !!

    Thanks for any advice from the experts here and thanks for this forum.


  2. #2

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    Having to run it with the choke on means it is running lean. Before you do anything else, check the compression on both cylinders. If its ok, then pull both carbs and rebuild them. Replace the needle and seats, and use only genuine mikuni parts. Don't skimp. Also replace/upgrade the fuel lines to the blue ethanol resistant line. (available on ebay for about $1 a foot. Also, and this is very important, if it still has the original oil injection (clear lines with the ty-wraps holding the lines on, you'll want to upgrade the lines to the yellow tygon line, and use oetiker clamps to put them together. (search oil injection oetiker clamps on the forum, there is a ton of info, and pics posted too. this upgrade makes the oil injection system almost bulletproof)

  3. #3
    wotxxxsd's Avatar
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    Welcome aboard the Hulk!!!

    Great find!!!

    +1 on everything he said above.
    Also winterize it since your in cold country. Oil in the cylinders for storage..
    Top speed is in the low to mid 40s..

  4. #4
    1200 stx-r's Avatar
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    Welcome to Greenhulk!! And thank you for the pm with the manual. It's a good looking ski. I am certain you will get bored with the speed before the fall .....I am going to be doing the same carb rebuild as you. I took exhaust off last night so I can easily get to carbs and base plate. I separated at point through rear support under elec box and dead center under glove box at rubber coupler.

  5. #5
    C-Phase's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by butterbean_29512 View Post
    Having to run it with the choke on means it is running lean. Before you do anything else, check the compression on both cylinders. If its ok, then pull both carbs and rebuild them. Replace the needle and seats, and use only genuine mikuni parts. Don't skimp. Also replace/upgrade the fuel lines to the blue ethanol resistant line. (available on ebay for about $1 a foot. Also, and this is very important, if it still has the original oil injection (clear lines with the ty-wraps holding the lines on, you'll want to upgrade the lines to the yellow tygon line, and use oetiker clamps to put them together. (search oil injection oetiker clamps on the forum, there is a ton of info, and pics posted too. this upgrade makes the oil injection system almost bulletproof)
    Thank You, I will check on those lines. I know "balanced compression" between both cylinders is most important, but what should the compression be?

    Quote Originally Posted by 1200 stx-r View Post
    Welcome to Greenhulk!! And thank you for the pm with the manual. It's a good looking ski. I am certain you will get bored with the speed before the fall .....I am going to be doing the same carb rebuild as you. I took exhaust off last night so I can easily get to carbs and base plate. I separated at point through rear support under elec box and dead center under glove box at rubber coupler.
    Your most welcome,
    LOL, I might, the guy told me "it does 60", Oh well for the price I can't complain.
    Do you have a thread going on about your carb rebuild? if so I will follow it closely as it appears I will be doing the same. I assume they cannot be removed without removing the exhaust, or does that just give you more room to work?

    Thanks guys and thanks for the welcome !!
    Harry

  6. #6
    1200 stx-r's Avatar
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    More room to work. No I haven't done a thread. There is prob one on here I couldn't find one but I am sure it's here. Both cylinders on mine are at 130

  7. #7
    wotxxxsd's Avatar
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    All compression guages will read different #s.
    My auto parts store guages read 130 and my buddies craftsman guages read 145.
    As long as you #s are not too far off from each other and they are not low it should be good.

  8. #8
    C-Phase's Avatar
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    Thanks guys.
    Since I most likely will NOT be riding this thing for a few months, what else do I need to do to winterize it? I did run it on the trailer with the supplied hose attachment, but there didn't seem like any water was coming out of the water indicator holes on the port side mid ship, nor was any water shooting up out of the back rooster tail thing. I suspect there might not be enough volume for that, as it was working while out on the water. Does the cooling system need to have any anti freeze run thru it, if so what is the procedure for that?

    Sorry for all the dumb newbie questions....

  9. #9
    Top speed is low to mid 50's. Install waveeater clips while you have the exhaust off to rebuild the carbs

  10. #10
    OzarkYamMonster's Avatar
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    Hello and welcome to the Hulk. Sense you will be needing to do a carb clean out/rebuild (not that hard), you really only need to now winterize the ski until spring. 1st things first ... put some staybil in the gas run engine a few seconds with gas on .... then turn gas off and let ski burn out the remaining gas in carbs. If you can, tilt ski all the way up (back) to ensure any water remaining in exhaust get blown out. Then remove plugs and spray sea foam in plug holes to fog the cylindars. Just bump the starter a few times to work into cyl. Then spray a little more in and put plugs back in. remove battery and place on work bench. I think that should do it. Then stay on the hulk & read about the carb rebuild for the spring. Again welcome , you got a great deal

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