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  1. #1

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    Virage TXi trouble in Australia

    Hi guys.

    Just wondering with all the knowledge out there if anyone had seen this problem before. It has stumped every jet sport dealer in Sydney so far. In short I have 2001 virage txi 1200 red edition motor. It starts and runs for varying periods of between 2 and 15 minutes before there is a distinct change in engine noise and then it stops. It sometimes does, sometime doesn't start again. If it does, it only runs for a short period of time. A number of service centers have briefly looked at, however most don't want to know about Polaris. It has 100 hours on. I have checked the resistance of the crank señor, also the thermostat, the emm cooling pipe, and replaced the fuel pump as initially I thought that was the problem. I have the error codes from the emm, which are 39 - fuel pump open load, 52 - fuel injector open load and 51 -#1 mag fuel injector open load.

    When it does run it accelerates and runs wot without issue. Then it just stops without warning and no indication on the display. Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. As mentioned I can't find any one that is keen on diagnosing it any further.

    Regards
    Chris
    Sydney Aust


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Please confirm the last four digits of the HIN number on the rear deck. This is the manufacture and model year info.

    It sounds like the EMM is having a problem.

    Have you confirmed that the water cooling through the EMM is actually flowing properly? Check for kinked or crushed small water hoses. The water first flows through the flywheel front cover, then into the EMM. From the EMM it runs to the hull exhaust exit at the rear where it exits.

    I have have seen kinks where the small water hose is tee'd off from the larger water feed hose, under the front of the engine. Also make sure the water hose running to the rear has not been crushed by the battery.

    Sometimes the two brass elbows on the flywheel water jacket cover get clogged as the internal passages are fairly small.

    One easy test is to replace the EMM water exit hose with a test hose that just dumps out the side somewhere where you can see it while the engine is running in the water.

    Another simple test is to unplug and bypass the LR-503 Start/Stop module. I have posted the instructions elsewhere.

    Has the TPS on the throttle body been replaced? A bad TPS can cause various symptoms. If it will start and idle with the TPS unplugged but will not start with TPS connected then replace the TPS.

    The exhaust temp sensor can mess things up if it is going bad or the wires are damaged. We have seen this more with the MSX 140 but it works the same on all Ficht engines.

    If you ride in salt water then it might be worthwhile to unplug and inspect inside every connector in the wire harness. Corroded or intermittent electrical connections can make you crazy. Be sure to check the fuse and wire splice connections too.

  3. #3

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    Hi

    Firstly, thanks so much for the info. As mentioned trying to find anyone interested in looking at the problem is near impossible in Sydney. However I'm sure there is an answer as to why it behaves like it does. I just need to find the answer. In relation to the cooling pipe. I will confirm it that water is flowing through. Currently the pipes are clean and I can blow through them.

    The TPS has not been changed at this stage as I wanted to eliminate all the common problems. I think I will order one though, just to be on the safe side. Every thing we order here has to come from the US.

    A question in relation to the fuel system. Do you know if the EMM is the only thing to control the fuel pump? The reason I ask is because each time it stops I remove the inlet fuel line at the first injector and its dry. If I leave the machine turned off for a minute or two then wind it over again the fuel pump restarts and fuel comes out at 26psi. I replaced the pump only a week ago with a new genuine pump. I think the distinct noise I'm hearing from the engine before it stops, it a lack of fuel.

    I was thinking about wiring the fuel pump directly to a battery to bypass the emm to test the theroy. What do you think?


    The HIN numbers are L001.

    Regards

    Chris

    Sydney

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Genisys View Post
    ... The HIN numbers are L001...
    How to decode the HIN number plate on the rear deck
    For Polaris, the first three letters are always PLE followed by a five digit serial number and a date code
    .
    The last four digits on the HIN plate indicate the model year, and the month and year it was manufactured.
    The very last two HIN digits are the model year
    The two digits before that are the month (one letter, see below) and year (single digit) of actual production.
    A January
    B February
    C March
    D April
    E May
    F June
    G July
    H August
    I September
    J October
    K November
    L December

    So your machine was built in December 2000 as a 2001 model.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Genisys View Post
    ... The TPS has not been changed at this stage as I wanted to eliminate all the common problems. I think I will order one though, just to be on the safe side. Every thing we order here has to come from the US.

    A question in relation to the fuel system. Do you know if the EMM is the only thing to control the fuel pump? The reason I ask is because each time it stops I remove the inlet fuel line at the first injector and its dry. If I leave the machine turned off for a minute or two then wind it over again the fuel pump restarts and fuel comes out at 26psi. I replaced the pump only a week ago with a new genuine pump. I think the distinct noise I'm hearing from the engine before it stops, it a lack of fuel.

    I was thinking about wiring the fuel pump directly to a battery to bypass the emm to test the theory. What do you think?
    ...
    The EMM does directly control the fuel pump. However, the EMM does not control power feed to the fuel pump. The fuel pump is wired directly to 12 volt battery power via a fuse (circuit breaker).

    When the EMM wants to turn on the fuel pump the EMM grounds the Brown wire via pin-40 on the large EMM connector. If you short the Brown wire to ground the fuel pump should run continuously.

    The best way to do this is with a test rig.

    If you promise not to short anything or set fire to your watercraft, you can try this;
    Quick and dirty wire crimp pin connections for the Ficht fuel pump harness connector

    Get the fuel pump running, then see if it behaves over time. Note that you will be manually controlling the fuel pump (use a sealed switch). It is up to you to remember to turn the fuel pump off when the engine is stopped. For safety reasons this of course cannot be used as a long term 'fix'. Just for testing.

    Sometimes pin-40 on the EMM becomes corroded or damaged, resulting in an intermittent fuel pump. You can visually inspect the connector pins, but it is a hassle to extract the EMM to get your eyeballs on it. There is a 4mm (5/32") hex cap screw in the centre of the big connector. Tricky to get at, it is captive so the screw won't fall out. But the wrench will fall down under the fuel tank

    Once you have the big connector screw loose the whole connector just slides out. Then you can undo the two EMM water hoses and two smaller connectors. Remove the single centre bolt with rubber washer and the EMM should wiggle out. Try not to cut yourself on the sharp edges of the metal bracket.

  6. #6

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    Hi.

    Thanks for a fantastic response time. Your a world of knowledge. I'm going to try your method of bypassing the EMM tonight. I did have the EMM out last week just to clean it and make sure water, or corrosion wasn't the problem. Which it wasnt. All the pins are in good condition, there is no corrosion. All the cables, joiners and connectors I've checked are in good condition. They are well coated in WD40 Silicon. I will endeavour to check the rest. I do wash the ski completly down after its been used and spray all the wiring with WD40.

    I'll let you know how bypassing the EMM goes.

    Chris

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Genisys View Post
    Hi.

    Thanks for a fantastic response time. Your a world of knowledge. I'm going to try your method of bypassing the EMM tonight. I did have the EMM out last week just to clean it and make sure water, or corrosion wasn't the problem. Which it wasn't. All the pins are in good condition, there is no corrosion. All the cables, joiners and connectors I've checked are in good condition. They are well coated in WD40 Silicon.

    I will endeavour to check the rest. I do wash the ski completely down after its been used and spray all the wiring with WD40.

    I'll let you know how bypassing the EMM goes.

    Chris
    It is tricky to inspect the socket side of the EMM connector, as they are hidden inside that big wire harness connector shell.

    I am not saying there is a problem there, but corrosion in there is hard to detect, hard to clean out. Sometimes just a bit of dried up dielectric grease can cause troubles. I often use some non-residue electrical contact cleaner spray solvent to clean out the connector holes.

    You can use a bit of solid copper wire as a test probe into the socket hole, but don't use copper wire that is any larger gauge than the actual EMM pins.

    The EMM pins are about .032" so AWG 20 solid copper wire would be a close match.

  8. #8

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    Just to be on the safe side and eliminate corrosion as a problem. I'll pull the EMM out again, inspect the plug and spray all the connectors with electrical contact spray. I'll let you know how we go.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Genisys View Post
    Just to be on the safe side and eliminate corrosion as a problem. I'll pull the EMM out again, inspect the plug and spray all the connectors with electrical contact spray. I'll let you know how we go.
    While it is out use the thin copper wire probe to confirm the Brown wire is unbroken all the way from EMM to fuel pump connector. Should measure zero ohms and the reading should not change as you flex, tug and wiggle the wire.

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