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  1. #1
    Matrix 4-Tec spannerspencer's Avatar
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    How to Prevent cracking on MSX grab handle

    Almost all the MSX grab handles ive come across suffer from cracking around the centre rear bolt holes/tow hook flange. I believe this is due to 2 reasons. there being a gab between the recess for the tow hook on the grab handle - and the metal tow hook, and also perhaps due to the load on the hook if towing a ringo for example causing stress on the grab handle clamped to it.

    this is what ive done to hopefully take the stresses away from the plastic grab handle.

    Ive drilled the 8mm by 12mm slots on both the tow hook and the grab handle to 12mm. then fitted a sleeve. so the tow hook it clamped direct and effectively bypasses the grab handle.





    I countersunk where the welds on the stainless hook plate buts the grab handle.



    with the tow hook now in place the spacers sit just proud of the grab handle. (spacers 14mm long over all I think )



    ive fitted larger stainless washers on the top, and used sikaflex to pack out the gap and take contact with the grab handle once it goes hard into rubber



    Last edited by spannerspencer; 12-02-2013 at 02:24 PM.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Nicely done

    For those who do not have easy access to machining and SS welding, do you think a poor man's approach might be to just stack a SS spacer on top of the stock tow hook metal plate and drill out the plastic above to clear the spacer?

    Something like this;
    http://www.mcmaster.com/#unthreaded-spacers/=pmx36q

    What are the dimensions involved? Distance from top of hook plate to top of your spacer?

  3. #3
    Matrix 4-Tec spannerspencer's Avatar
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    im sure you could just add a spacer. I wanted to get rid of the slotted holes though, to keep the hook well anchored against the bolts. adding a spacer and clamping prob would just work fine.

    by chance found some nice stainless spacers (12mm od x 8mm id x 7mm long - I doubled them up), but something that is perfect for the job is seamless 12mm stainless tube, with 2mm wall (which gives the 8mm ID) can just cut to length. (8mm length)

    the hook plate is 6mm thick, and the area of the grab handle is about the same +/- I found there was a 1mm gap between the grab handle to tow hook plate (prior to clamping) when bolted in position -which I suspect causes the cracks, and my washer/spacers are about 1mm proud. so your spacer would just need to be 8mm long. 12mm OD (or what dia ever you drill the grab handle to suit) and as you pull down on the handle, I think I can get away with the set up.

    seems finiky but I think its well worth the bother. esp as these grab handles are getting harder to find in good shape. the one I use had just the one crack! I have epoxy glued in the past but don't see that solves the cause.

  4. #4
    Kosh's Avatar
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    Well done!

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by spannerspencer View Post
    im sure you could just add a spacer. ...

    the hook plate is 6mm thick, and the area of the grab handle is about the same +/- I found there was a 1mm gap between the grab handle to tow hook plate (prior to clamping) when bolted in position -which I suspect causes the cracks, and my washer/spacers are about 1mm proud.

    so your spacer would just need to be 8mm long. 12mm OD (or what dia ever you drill the grab handle to suit) and as you pull down on the handle, I think I can get away with the set up...
    Converted to 'american' dimensions would this work?

    McMaster-Carr 92320A240
    18-8 Stainless Steel Unthreaded Spacer


    1/2" OD, 5/16" Length



    Name:  92320a525p1l.png
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    Might need a flat SS washer underneath the spacer to spread the load out on the flat hook plate.

  6. #6
    Matrix 4-Tec spannerspencer's Avatar
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    looks like it would be the ticket. a washer would help spread the load over the slots in the tow hook plate

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