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  1. #1

    New to me 2001 GTX. Carb Model. Seized

    Hey guys, great site. Searched around a little bit and can't really find what I'm looking.

    Yesterday, I picked up an 01 GTX for cheap. Body is in perfect shape, garage kept etc etc etc.

    The guy I got it from says it's seized. Never been sunk. He starting taking it half way apart, so the engine is still intact but the carbs, exhaust and intake/exhaust routing is removed. Tomorrow I'm going to try and get this thing to turn. I'm planning to pull the head off, spray a bunch of penetrating oil around the pistons and put a pipe wrench on the output shaft and gently see if I can get it to move.

    So if anyone can shine some light on something particular I should be looking for, feel free to post up!

    If I get it loose, I plan to go through the fuel system, check reeds, verify oiler operation and just a general tune up. However, gotta get passed step one first.


  2. #2
    Well, it's getting a top end. I just pulled the head off and cylinders are rusty and caked with crud. Going to be pulling the engine tomorrow. I'm completely new to the PWC world. So if I ask some "basic" questions, I hope you guys can help me out.

    How common is it for these to have massive amounts of corrosion in the water jackets? The return port at the curbside of the head was completely clogged.
    Last edited by adamwedge; 12-07-2013 at 10:04 PM.

  3. #3

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    With the top end seized, and rusted, I would be going into the bottom too. I bet you find the same deal. If it was me, I would want to see the bottom end and make sure that there is no corrosion on the crank bearings.

    I have been hit or miss on corrosion in the jackets. With a salt water bike I would be taking a peek at those too.

  4. #4
    If i knew,...I wouldn't ask sea-one's Avatar
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    I agree, needs an engine or your just wasting time and money and clean the carbs and it it still has the gray TEMPO fuel lines then you must change these out also. keep us posted

  5. #5
    I started to tear it down today. Got the engine out and pulled the reeds and the bottom is toast as well. However, I can't get the jug off this thing. It is STUCK. Got the studs out fine, but can't get the cylinders to budge. The cylinder appears to be in good shape other than requiring a hone/re sleeve (i'll measure pistons and bore when I get this off) so I would like to try and salvage this thing.

    Anyone have any experience with stubborn cylinders? I tried hanging it from the bolts and tapping on the block with a rubber mallet trying to get gravity on my side, and still nothing!

  6. #6
    wkuadam07's Avatar
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    An engine in that condition i never even tear apart... i use it as a core... There are several shops that offer re-manufactured engines for less than the cost of all of the parts that your motor will need. Once the crank is toast, it adds up very quickly. Besides the savings, most rebuilders have WARRANTIES!!! I have enough fun removing and installing the engine and making sure each and every piece of the ski is up to par, i don't feel like i am missing out by not building my motors.

    Do some extra reading and get the carbs right, pop off test, etc... also, that ski has 5/16 fuel supply line, not 1/4 like the smaller ones. Check/change your pump oil and definitely do an engine alignment when you put it back together. It's a lot easier to be meticulous when things are already apart then to get towed in next spring.

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  8. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by wkuadam07 View Post
    An engine in that condition i never even tear apart... i use it as a core... There are several shops that offer re-manufactured engines for less than the cost of all of the parts that your motor will need. Once the crank is toast, it adds up very quickly. Besides the savings, most rebuilders have WARRANTIES!!! I have enough fun removing and installing the engine and making sure each and every piece of the ski is up to par, i don't feel like i am missing out by not building my motors.

    Do some extra reading and get the carbs right, pop off test, etc... also, that ski has 5/16 fuel supply line, not 1/4 like the smaller ones. Check/change your pump oil and definitely do an engine alignment when you put it back together. It's a lot easier to be meticulous when things are already apart then to get towed in next spring.
    What are yall's thoughts on SBT? I see they have A) all parts necessary to rebuild engine and B) Re-manned engines. Got the wheels turning now.

    And Dam07, what is this said relief valve you speak of? Like I said, I'm new to the water world!

  9. #8
    canuck's Avatar
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    That's a tough call, if you like tinkering and have the ability to do the work yourself then go for it. Parts add up fast even when trying to save a buck but don't cheap out so much as you affect reliability. I rebuilt the 951 in my old 98 GTX Limited this spring, parts and machine work came close to $1,300 when the dust settled. This was WSM platinum pistons, bored out, BRP rebuilt crank, I replaced the bearings and seal on the counterbalancer shaft myself, wrist pin bearings, engine gasket kit and two carb kits. I'm in Canada where stuff costs more but I bought as much as I could off Ebay and my local dealer gives me parts at just above cost.

    For the price and the age of that machine I would be tempted to go SBT reman and have fun with it. Make sure and do the stuff mentioned earlier so it's reliable, this would be my list:

    - Rebuild both carbs with genuine Mikuni carb kits.
    - Replace all fuel lines.
    - New fuel selector switch.
    Basically the fuel system has to be surgically clean to avoid future problems.
    - New oil filter.
    Always use a good quality synthetic oil on the RAVE valve engines.
    - Engine alignment after engine install.
    - Change the jet pump oil and check condition of impeller and wear ring.
    - Check condition of carbon seal on driveshaft.
    - Read up on installing the exhaust pipe, pay close attention to the pipe to manifold connection and make sure it has the rubber diaper installed.

    I had my 98 GTXL for about 6 years and it was my favourite Seadoo until I got the RXP.

    Good Luck


  10. #9
    wkuadam07's Avatar
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    Everything Canuck said... and here are some resources.

    I hate to link this site here... but here is some good fast info on carbs and pop off testing... http://www.seadoosource.com/mikunitests.html
    I linked this because it covers the filters, and the testing, and almost everything you need to know.

    A full, free, downloadable manual for your ski can be found here... Manual. This is handy for the torques and a few little things along the way, it is the factory service manual.

    As for SBT, personally, that is who i recommend. I have NEVER had a bad experience, and i have bought a lot of motors from them. People on forums often write about their bad experiences, so if you search the name you will find all the people that had a negative experience, most of those people brought that bad experience on themselves by ignoring good advice. They are the ONLY place i go to get replacement 2-stroke seadoo engines like what you are looking for. I have had warranty claims, they have honored them without argument, even though it was the customers fault when the motor was damaged. That being said, they do not sell Mikuni factory brand carb kits, so buy them somewhere else.

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  12. #10
    I do like tinkering, just got done doing a big bore top and bottom on my 01 cr 125 bike. I think if I ever get this damn jug off, I'll rebuild it. If not, it's going to SBT as a core! That will be the determining factor. Looking at parts I'm at about 1000. Remanned SBT 951 is 1300, without carb kits. Not really trying to pinch pennies since I got it for so cheap, but I like working on stuff.

    We will see how it plays out I suppose. Dam07, thanks for the links and info. Seems to be alot of knowledge on here, hopefully I get up to speed sooner than later and can have this thing in the water once it warms up. Only thing I see being an issue is setting up the dual carbs to where they're happy with eachother. If anyone has any tips or tricks on that, It would be greatly appreciated. Also, If anyone can give a quick how to on how to test the oil injection pump, that would help. I want to make sure it's going to properly feed before I waste a ton of money.

    Tomorrow I'm going to work on draining the fuel/oil tanks and clean out the engine compartment.

    Thanks guys!

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