03-18-2007, 04:12 PM #1
Water Got In My Trailer wheel Bearings Please Help!
I removed the dust cover on my Karavan trailer to adjust my crown nut because I felt a little play when I wiggled the tire. I found that I had rust and water come out and noticed the red grease started to turn white. I use the trailer in salt water and it's only a year old. Should I do a total repack or will filling the Karavan Sure Lube System with new grease do the trick? Ive taken apart a smaller trailer hub before but not this type with the zerk fittings. Anything I should know before doing this or tips anyone could give me? I know i'm gonna have to buy 2 new rear bearing seels for this but any help is greatly aprpreciated. Here's a couple pics of the corrosion.
03-18-2007, 04:21 PM #2
I would put new bearings and slotted nut after cleaning
out it the best you can. Do you use bearing buddies? They
fit on the axles in place of the dust cap and you keep them
full of grease. They have a spring that keeps a positive pressure
to prevent water intrusion.
I also put anti seize grease on the lug nut studs so you can
get them off. I had a nut freeze to the stud and when we
put an air hammer to it, it just spun the stud. Had to use
a cut off saw wheel to get it off. A big job which in the end
had me buying new wheel hubs too.
03-18-2007, 04:35 PM #3
If the bearings are scored or pitted i would replace them along with the races and seals..
03-18-2007, 11:12 PM #4
How do I remove the races?
The races are shot but I have no idea how to get them out? I'm probably just gonna replace both sides with loaded hubs. But not sure if the aftermarket hubs will work with the stock zerk fitting and the Karavan sure lube system? Thanks for any info...
03-19-2007, 07:35 AM #5
Getting the races out is easier than you think..
You have to pound them out using a blunt punch/drift from the opposite side by catching the lip of each of them..
Installing the bearing is even easier... But you do have to be carefull not to kit the wear area with the drift or hammer.
you could take them to a automotive shop and have them do it quick... It would still be cheaper than buying whole new hubs
03-19-2007, 09:34 PM #6
Replacing the races are super easy if you have the right tools. Don't use anything that is steel, you will end up screwing up the hubs plus the steel punch, rod, or socket. I have always used a brass punch and a 2 lb shop hammer, I can usually knock a race out in 2-3 hits from the hammer. The best part about using a brass punch is there is no way you can screw up the hub.
Northern Tool's brass punch set
I know Harbor Freight has a 3/4" brass punch but there website only list a 1/2", us a 3/4" punch.
The next difficult part of installing bearings in the inner seal. I put a layer of silicone around the metal edge (usually orange, green, or blue) and a 4x4x8" board to drive the seal in without damaging it. The 4x4 comes handy when installing the dust shield also.
If you do descide to take it to an automotive shop, make sure they don't use an air-hammer. This method is guarantee to leave marks, and some shops could charge a 1 hr worth of labor ($45 - $125 depending on the shop).
I prefer Timken bearings over anything else and they are available at any Autozone. There are trailer kits available, but most bearings will only cost $8 and the seal $4. I would just clean up the castle nut and reuse it, unless you prefer to replace it.
Last edited by cbrich; 03-19-2007 at 09:38 PM.
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