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  1. #1

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    2000 polaris virage won't crank

    I recently purchased a repo 2000 Polaris Virage for $600.00from a local marina for nonpayment of slip. It looked great in the picture & when I picked it up & cleaned it does look great. The problem is it won't crank. I have researched on here about this issue. I have taken 2 screw drivers across the starter solenoid & it did crank. I have read on here about bypassing the LR 505 Start/Stop module. I was wondering if anyone knows where to get pictures or a video of bypasing this. I need to get this fixed in order to get my compression & decide if it's worth putting any more money in it to get it running.

    I know I probably shouldn't have purchased this as is where is, but I figured I could part it out for $600.00 if need be. I would much prefer to fix & keep it.

    Thanks for any help anyone could provide.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    I have posted multiple times with instructions for bypassing the LR-505 module. Search for posts with LR-505 in the title and K447 as the author.

    This is a carburetor engine, correct?

    Two cylinders?

    Does the solenoid make a click sound when you press the Start button (with lanyard in place)? If it clicks, but no cranking, the actual solenoid may be bad. The original black body solenoids with a metal backing plate are known to corrode internally.

    Since you can get the engine to crank by shorting the heavy studs on the solenoid, you can use that method to check compression numbers. The battery MUST be strong or the compression numbers will read low.

  3. #3

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    Yes it is carburetor with two cylinders. I did see ur posts in regards to bypassing the LR 505 module. I hope I will understand it better when I get it back from the shop. The shop told me it needed a new cdi. I'm just a little leary about it because the didn't by pass the module.

    He said that it would be about 700 to 800 to get it replace & the carburater rebuilt. I didn't want to put that much money in this ski.

    I think the best way to keep my cost down will to get it cranking here. check all the basics. Then send it to the shop to get the carb rebuilt.

    Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly apprieciated.

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  5. #4
    LaveyT's Avatar
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    All of the information is in the Links on K447's signature.

  6. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmatt4366 View Post
    Yes it is carburetor with two cylinders. I did see ur posts in regards to bypassing the LR 505 module. I hope I will understand it better when I get it back from the shop. The shop told me it needed a new cdi. I'm just a little leary about it because the didn't by pass the module.

    He said that it would be about 700 to 800 to get it replace & the carburetor rebuilt. I didn't want to put that much money in this ski.

    I think the best way to keep my cost down will to get it cranking here. check all the basics. Then send it to the shop to get the carb rebuilt.

    Any suggestions or recommendations would be greatly appreciated.
    Seriously, the most cost effective way to get these machines running and to keep them running is to be able to do your own diagnostics and repairs.

    Certainly there are a bunch of tests and checks you can do before starting to replace electrical parts.

    A lot of the checks and tests are not particularly complex or difficult, just work through the steps. Certainly there is a lot of info available around here to help you along.

    Where are you located?

  7. #6

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    I live in Tennessee. I'm looking forward to this project. At least I still have plenty of time before summer.

  8. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmatt4366 View Post
    I live in Tennessee. I'm looking forward to this project. At least I still have plenty of time before summer.
    Update your Profile as it makes it easier to keep track of who is where, roughly speaking.

    You will have easier access to parts than members who live far outside the USA.

  9. #8

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    I know this is crazy but I can't find the link on how to bypass the module. Only posts referring me to find the link. Please help me find the post or attach the URL would be great.

    I did do a compression check & one cylinder has 130 & the other 140.

  10. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by jmatt4366 View Post
    I know this is crazy but I can't find the link on how to bypass the module. Only posts referring me to find the link.

    Please help me find the post or attach the URL would be great...
    Using Advanced Search mode;
    Search for LR-505 in Thread Titles only
    Search for posts by K447

    One of the search results leads to this post;
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...=1#post2152781

    Click image for larger version. 

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  11. #10

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    Click image for larger version. 

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    I'm very sorry for asking what is apparently stupid questions! Please forgive me as I am a newbie. When you stat this "
    Temporarily move the only remaining Black/White wire to a Black terminal"

    Are you talking about female end of the Black/white wire and inserting it on the male end where the spare fuse is located?

    Also, I have a grey/red male end coming inot the eectrical box that doesn't connect to anything. Is it supposed to?

    I hope attached pictures of both.
    Last edited by K447; 01-04-2014 at 05:21 PM.

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