Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1

    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Jax,FL
    Posts
    3,439
    +1
    652

    2010 RXTX 260 - Water in pump

    110 hrs on the pump. Water came pouring out when I took the nose cone off. Nice ball of grease. There are some O rings that form a seal when the nose cone is installed...they are pretty hardened. Can I just replace, re grease and move on with life? Everything seems tight...no slop when spinning the prop etc.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2022.jpg 
Views:	65 
Size:	67.6 KB 
ID:	320657   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2023.jpg 
Views:	64 
Size:	69.7 KB 
ID:	320658   Click image for larger version. 

Name:	IMG_2024.jpg 
Views:	64 
Size:	66.7 KB 
ID:	320659  


  2. #2
    Nothin' better than Doo'in it! BigDaddyRXP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    9,202
    +1
    673
    More than likely it's the front seal that's leaking. Time for a full rebuild!

  3. #3

    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Jax,FL
    Posts
    3,439
    +1
    652
    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyRXP View Post
    More than likely it's the front seal that's leaking. Time for a full rebuild!
    Was hoping you weren't going to say that. All the parts are about 275 then the dick around factor.

    What is the secret to getting my impeller off. It appears to be welded on to the shaft. Should I heat the middle of the impeller with a blow torch and then go medieval on it with the breaker bar? I couldn't budge with a 2.5ft extension on my wrench or my impact wrench.

  4. #4
    Nothin' better than Doo'in it! BigDaddyRXP's Avatar
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Tampa Bay, FL
    Posts
    9,202
    +1
    673
    Don't use an impact wrench on the impeller! If it's never been off... it probably has red loc-tite on it. Considering your replacing everything..... lay the heat to it!

  5. #5

    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Jax,FL
    Posts
    3,439
    +1
    652
    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyRXP View Post
    Don't use an impact wrench on the impeller! If it's never been off... it probably has red loc-tite on it. Considering your replacing everything..... lay the heat to it!
    With what I've been through so far I would've just replaced the whole ski...to deep in now though....it's a pride thing now. Plus I wouldn't feel right selling a ski I knew had issues. Fix it I will.

    Thx for the help...going fry that sucker!

  6. #6
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Location
    Pittsburg, Texas Lake Bob Sandlin
    Posts
    3,849
    +1
    742
    Holy Shit, that looks nasty! Total pump rebuild required for sure…bearings, seals, o-rings, grease, etc. BTW, it is called an "anti-cavitation cone", the nose cone is what is on your impeller. You should remove this annually to check o-rings, seals, and add grease/gear oil. It should not take more than around 94-100ft-lbs to loosen the impeller from the pump. WHen properly maintained it should look like fresh clean grease/oil with zero water residue.

    Good lesson to be learned.

  7. #7
    www.eastcoastpwc.net Scott's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    NJ
    Posts
    7,990
    +1
    455
    Quote Originally Posted by DinoMite View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyRXP View Post
    More than likely it's the front seal that's leaking. Time for a full rebuild!
    Was hoping you weren't going to say that. All the parts are about 275 then the dick around factor.

    What is the secret to getting my impeller off. It appears to be welded on to the shaft. Should I heat the middle of the impeller with a blow torch and then go medieval on it with the breaker bar? I couldn't budge with a 2.5ft extension on my wrench or my impact wrench.
    I had a very similar issue. I could not remove the prop from the pump. We tried heat, long breaker bars, broke 6 different vices. I ended up sending the pump to my buddy down in FL and he ended up drilling out the pump shaft.


  8. #8
    Boost addict hotbird's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2011
    Location
    Southern WI
    Posts
    5,503
    +1
    681
    Time for a rotax racing pump. Cha ching! Lol

    I have had to use 2 10 foot bars but never heat or a drill. That would suck.

    Get your innner hulk on!!
    Last edited by hotbird; 01-04-2014 at 06:57 PM.

  9. #9
    GRF + DashPac:) seadoo02xp's Avatar
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    MO
    Posts
    4,559
    +1
    948
    I have a rotax pump with your name on it

  10. #10
    I will try this shaft, it doesn't have the coating that has been the cause of every late model pump seals failure I have seen.

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 2010 RXTX Rough Water Loss of Power
    By Throttlemire in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 25
    Last Post: 04-28-2011, 07:50 PM
  2. RXT-X 260 water in hull after sitting outside in a rain:(
    By Toobold in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 22
    Last Post: 01-18-2011, 08:40 PM
  3. FS 2010 rxtx 260 and IS models ecu rs no gps limiter
    By rxpstan in forum Sea Doo Classifieds
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-05-2010, 08:19 AM
  4. Water in pump grease
    By gbest in forum Sea Doo Open Discussion
    Replies: 21
    Last Post: 10-26-2007, 09:30 AM
  5. water in pump
    By buddydoo in forum Sea Doo Open Discussion
    Replies: 20
    Last Post: 06-26-2006, 08:12 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •