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  1. #1

    melting 30 Amp fuse in 2008 Speedster 200

    New to greenhulk.
    Apologies if this thead has been covered before.

    My 2008 Speedster 200 suffers from a constant fuse melt, the 30amp (green) fuse between the regulator / rectifier and the hot side of the starter solenoid.
    It seems to be a common problem as various forums and theads about this appear on google.

    The problem is - none seem to offer a solution.

    Would be greatly appreciated if anyone can share their solution to this problem.

    Knowing that I have things melting in a confined & petrol (sorry gasoline) powered hull, and under someones seat, takes all the fun out of my boating experience

    cheers
    Brendan
    Last edited by K447; 01-09-2014 at 12:39 AM. Reason: Thread title details


  2. #2
    Cliff's Avatar
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    The fuse is loose and arcing in the terminals. I have replaced the fuse holder on a couple of boats. You can buy just the fuse holder with about 6 inches of wire on it at NAPA . Cut your old one out and connect the new one. Just be sure the terminals are tight on the fuse.

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  4. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Cliff View Post
    The fuse is loose and arcing in the terminals. I have replaced the fuse holder on a couple of boats. You can buy just the fuse holder with about 6 inches of wire on it at NAPA . Cut your old one out and connect the new one. Just be sure the terminals are tight on the fuse.
    Spot on Cliff as I did just that after I posted this thead and problem was solved.

    Many thanks for your comment and those that pm'd me.

  5. #4
    wotxxxsd's Avatar
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    Welcome aboard the Hulk!!!

  6. #5
    More charge circuit issues guys - that is one of reg/rectifiers. I've gone through 3 since starting this thead.

    Commensurate with the fuses issue I have completely cleaned up the charging circuit and replaced all common ground connections on each block.
    Stators on both donks test per spec at 48VAC each phase @ 4000 RPM and show no short.

    In an effort to isolate the problem, I am only running one charge circuit, currently port engine (and completely isolating the starboard circuit).

    Everything seems ok initially with a charge voltage of 13 - 14 VDC, until I have a voltage warning after 15 min.
    When I check the charge voltage it is well over 16VDC and increasing.

    I am using non OEM 'WSM' (chinese) brand reg / rectifier.

    Has anyone had similiar problems? Is it unique to the chinese brand reg/retif of have others had the same issue with the OEM part?

    Thanks - I'm at my wits end.

  7. #6
    Tiny's Avatar
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    OEM is the only way to go

  8. #7
    Thanks Tiny.

    Replaced with OEM.
    Also did away with the connectors (looked like a bit of arcing going on) and 'hard-wired' the harness from magneto to the regulator / rectifier, soldering and heat shrink.

    NO MORE Problems. A charge of around 13.9V which I'm happy with.

  9. #8
    IDoSeaDoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by macka View Post

    I am using non OEM 'WSM' (chinese) brand reg / rectifier.


    Thanks - I'm at my wits end.
    I would STRONGLY caution anyone from using those off-brand recrifier/regulators. Speaking from experience, they can and do CATCH FIRE!!. Had I had the original fuel tank in my boat, I surely would have made the news last year when that POS caught fire and was dropping molten flaming plastic inside the hull. Thank GOD my fuel tank is aluminum. I was only using that regulator to run just the engine electronics, no stereo or bilge pumps, nothing extraneous. I've since upgraded to a good quality name-brand (Compufire) 3-phase rectifier/regulator. Also, I relocated it way away from my fuel tank, in the air intake port for the bilge, where it constantly gets air flow. This is not a piece you want to cheap out on, trust me. OEM or a good aftermarket brand that is capable of more Watts than the charging system puts out at WOT. I believe it's 300W, but not sure.

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