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  1. #1

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    Maint advice for a new owner

    First, thanks to everyone for their advice on my first PWC purchase.

    I bought, just today, an ULTRA 300x.
    I am gearing up for a first ride. And, before buying, I had been reading about maintenance. As in many things, I found a lot of different methods and advice. Then my manual gives advice, and the service tech, while giving me the rundown, contradicts the manual.

    Lets start this lesson with just post-ride preventative maintenance. The mechanic said NOT to use fogging oil in the SC port after every ride in our salt water as the manual instructs. He said to only do it during the services. You all DO this every ride, right? But, then he also said to change the oil every 50-100hrs. The manual says every 25.

    Mechanic said to periodically spray engine with silicone spray. I've seen some posters say they use fogging oil. What do the experienced Kawi drivers use? Brand? How often? Do you actually wash or rinse down the engine while rinsing out bilge/engine compartment?

    i understand flushing engine and intercooler, no advice needed there.

    I'm glad that I found GH. I checked out the other forums. Not much happening over there. Thanks, guys.


  2. #2
    Moderator #985 lasportsmn's Avatar
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    FIRST AND MOST IMPORTANTLY- remove the plugs and apply anti sieze. Be VERY careful not to overtighten them.

    Some of us are VERY anal about our post ride care and some others are more laxed. Since you are riding salt water I would suggest you do the extras not taking the easy route. If one person says to do something but someone else says no I say do it.

    The biggest thing is to be sure there is not a grain of salt left on or in your ski anywhere. This is any ski.

    Many are having different opinions about the oil and there is a thread about that so I hope this will not go down that road. Yes you can use the expensive synthetics but all that is required is conventional oil. With normal rec use I believe conventional approved oil is good. This will keep the oil change cost down and can be done more often. I personally change the oil as soon as I see the first sign of change in color. I am extreme and do use synthetic.

    This ski is no different than the others. I treat any ski and my boats the same with post ride salt water use.

  3. #3
    Self Confessed Day Dreamer toomanytoys's Avatar
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    Fog after EVERY ride (takes 10 seconds, no real reason not to).

    Wash the engine everywhere, I mean everywhere. Don't go easy.

    When it dries spray a good coating of Lanolin/Lanox (or other good anti-corrosive spray that won't damage rubber).

    Change the oil AT LEAST every 25 hours. I find my loses that good oil look (not scientific) about 13-15 hours and I change it then. Just use any oil that meets the specs.

    Tilt the trailer up as high as possible when you are blowing the water from the exhaust. Wait 30 minutes or so and start it up and give it another couple of revs (this usually removes most of the water). This is when I fog it too.

    Have fun on the new ski mate.

    Cheers, Mal.

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  5. #4

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    Thank you. I believe that I have a grasp and my shop has all the tools and supplies that I need. I maintain my vehicles and motorcycles. This is just a slightly new ball game for me. Once I get the first ride and maintenance done, I will be more comfortable. But, here I sit, nearly 2 a.m. waiting to get the thing wet for the first time. Going through all the pre-flight steps, the route that I will ride, and the post-ride scenarios in my head. Tomorrow morning is supposed to be a cool 36*F (2*C) here in sunny Florida, warming to a mild 62*F(16*C). But, then it is supposed to be colder for the next couple of weeks. I know it is summer downunder. But, we are mid winter up here.

    I am off work tomorrow, so I am thinking that I will take her for a 'break-in spin' in the intracoastal tomorrow afternoon before it gets cooler this week. This is Florida, after all, and it will be warmer in no time. I bet we hit 75*F(24*C) within a couple of weeks and I'll be ready to open her up.

    I've got some Fluid Film (Lanolin Based) and some Permatex Silicone Spray on hand. I've read a lot of good reviews on using the Fluid Film on the engine, and also the Silicone with it's protection on the rubber and plastics in the compartment. I may just pick one after my first ride, or try both for a while to see if I prefer one's protective layer over the other. I don't know yet. I'm not sure that I could go wrong with either given the multitude of raves that both get. I will definitely fog the SC after flushing.

    I appreciate your being specific about flushing and removing the water, Mal. It helps us rookies when you explain in detail, then when we get out there to do it, it all comes together.

    Thanks again for the info.

  6. #5

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    I didn't get a chance to mess with the ski until this evening. On the recommendation of lasportsmn, I removed the plugs, applied anti seize, I also applied dielectric around the plug boots. I hooked up the garden hose and cranked her up for the first time since I got it. I wanted to get familiar with the ski and was going through some steps that I will have to become accostomed to.

    So, I got out the fogging oil, attached the 'straw' to the can's nozzle, and attempted to apply the fogging oil into the port for the SC. The straw doesn't fit in the port. I just held it firmly to it, but the oil just squirts back up instead of down the hole. I imagine that I could slip some tubing to the nipple on the ski, but not to the fogging oil can.

    How do you guys apply the fogging oil down the port???

  7. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by FlaJim View Post
    I didn't get a chance to mess with the ski until this evening. On the recommendation of lasportsmn, I removed the plugs, applied anti seize, I also applied dielectric around the plug boots. I hooked up the garden hose and cranked her up for the first time since I got it. I wanted to get familiar with the ski and was going through some steps that I will have to become accostomed to.

    So, I got out the fogging oil, attached the 'straw' to the can's nozzle, and attempted to apply the fogging oil into the port for the SC. The straw doesn't fit in the port. I just held it firmly to it, but the oil just squirts back up instead of down the hole. I imagine that I could slip some tubing to the nipple on the ski, but not to the fogging oil can.

    How do you guys apply the fogging oil down the port???
    You need to firmly push squirt tube into fogging tube seal

    You can also use Vaseline (no brand) instead of dielectric around the plug boots and did you know anti-seize needs to be silver (not copper)

  8. #7

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    I went out and messed with it again. I got the fogging figured out.

    No, I didn't know about silver vs copper. What is the reason?

  9. #8

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    Quote Originally Posted by FlaJim View Post
    I went out and messed with it again. I got the fogging figured out.

    No, I didn't know about silver vs copper. What is the reason?

    They say it can react with aluminium. (Although I think its unlikely, just playing safe in case it does)

    Mind you, most if not all spark plug manufactures say no to using anti-sieze LOL
    http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/pdf/tb-...1antisieze.pdf

  10. #9

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    I, just now, did some online reading because ange5583 got me worried. This has apparently been a subject of contention for years. Not only on this board, but on many others, and in garages and workshops everywhere. Many people quoting possible science and reactions of different metals. Many others arguing that they have used one or the other anti seize with no ill effects. What I could not find was even anecdotal examples of actual bad experience with any of the anti seize.

    I did did find this from Permatex:

    Permatex Copper antiseize
    Suggested Applications: Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, fuel filter fittings, and battery cable connections. Temperature range: -30°F to 1800°F (-34°C to 982°C).


    Permatex® Nickel Anti-Seize Lubricant
    Protects metal parts from seizing and galling at temperatures up to 2400°F (1316°C). Copper-free, use under conditions of extreme pressure and temperature, and with stainless steel, titanium and nickel alloys.

    Suggested Applications: Exhaust manifold bolts, exhaust system bolts, muffler clamps and tailpipe assemblies

    Permatex® Anti-Seize Lubricant
    A highly refined blend of aluminum, copper and graphite lubricants. Use during assembly to prevent galling, corrosion and seizing and to assure easier disassembly. Temperature range: -60°F to 1600°F (-51°Cto 871°C). Salt, corrosion and moisture resistant – ideal for marine use.

    This last is what my auto parts had and what I bought. It is a mix of alum, copper, and graphite and is rated to 1600*F. It gives no cautionary warnings not to use in a motorcycle nor PWC nor in any type of motor nor material. If anyone can tell me why this is wrong, please do. If I made a mistake, I don't want to repeat it.

  11. #10
    nicjak's Avatar
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    Dont stress on the antiseize mate any will do just fine.

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