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  1. #1
    boogtonic's Avatar
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    Stage 1 FZS Questions...

    Hi guys, long time reader, first time poster on the forum coming from Brisbane, Aus!

    I had a good go with search but couldn't find the info I'm looking for so I thought I'd ask! Particularly a thread regarding the boost limiter on the SHO's I've stumbled across before.

    My 13' FZS just clicked 60 hours so I decided to do a few mods, it has the Riva FF, Power filter, Ribbon delete, R&D plate and intake grate plus the foam bits removed from the cowling on a DF 13/22.

    It ran 70mph with the TJ exhaust, stock filter and handling mods on a stock prop, I then did the FF and power filter and it felt much quicker but it would bang the limiter from a standing start and felt like it was on the limiter in the top end (more than 3/4 throttle did nothing)
    I then did the ribbon delete and put in the DF 13/22 but acceleration has taken a negative hit, couldn't test top end today as I didn't bring my GPS on board though.

    Now I've heard about the boost limiter and I'm wondering if its hitting that when accelerating because it definitely pulls harder at 3/4 throttle than WOT and once it hits the limiter revs come right down before they slowly creep back up (did not do this previously, would just bang it a couple times then get going) then its sweet to the top end?

    Or was I just hitting the soft limiter previously and now its actually cutting spark from multiple cylinders and a prop-bend would be the answer?

    Muchas Gracias!
    Mike


  2. #2

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    Up in QLD theres a lot of quick FZ's mate so you will be able to get plenty of local help. If your modding the ski, and without sounding like all the people that say buy this buy that spend thousands etc you need a reflash. Get a V Tech 8500. It will change your ski mate.

    Or you could just go full turbo set up like GKRacing from Melb here and have one of the only turbo FZ's in Aus that rides like this:
    Click image for larger version. 

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  3. #3
    boogtonic's Avatar
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    Sounds nuts, I'll probably pass on the turbo kit though thanks!
    Been trying to avoid a reflash if possible, why do you say V-tech and not R&D or Watsons?

  4. #4

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    Why do you want to avoid the reflash? Here in Vic our only local option is V tech for Yamaha. I was reluctant to send my ECU to the USA or interstate Watsons/GCWR etc, sorry Jerry, so went local.

    Very happy with the V Tech.

  5. #5
    boogtonic's Avatar
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    Not completely opposed to it, but a safe reliable ski means more to me than outright speed and accel. I do a fair bit of riding offshore alone so less problems=better.
    Raising the rev limiter also means doing a cooling mod, which leads to more mods...get what I'm saying?

  6. #6

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    Mate the ski will remain safe and reliable. Have a chat to the tuners. It will wake up your ski. We all ride in choppy conditions/ocean and have no issues. Do the cooling mod anyway, its cheap, less than $200. Get the kit off here. Good luck mate.

  7. #7
    Hydrotherapy's Avatar
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    You will be in the boost limiter for sure, i could watch mine on the stock tach back off then come back on power at WOT,kept seeing 7680rpm on pet 2100 so pissed about with nozzles and prop pitches then the penny dropped it was the boost limiter..
    you can put a boost clamp on but IMO not worth doing for a few reasons,
    get a reflash and unlock the power of your ski...you wont look back !, i went V tech twice now and love it

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  9. #8
    boogtonic's Avatar
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    I may put the stock exhaust (TJ Mod) back in and see where I end up, it may not be enough to bring me back off the limiter but its worth a try, the FF is a bit obnoxious for the areas I ride anyways.

    Otherwise its a $200 boost clamp or the $700 reflash? I understand all the other benefits of the flash, but the cost of shipping, exchange rate etc puts it pretty close to the Athena which is more future proof and I can swap ECU's without the factory knowing.

    http://www.4-tecperformance.com/inde...oducts_id=1845

    Wrt to the boost clamp, I know that is mainly for bigger wheels but wouldn't it work as well in this case? Being pig rich from factory with a stock RPM limiter in place and a stock wheel, I don't see any reason why it would make the ski unsafe for rec riding?
    If anyone with experience can chime in that would be great!
    Thanks for all the replies.

    Edit:
    Would the boost clamp negate the reading from the MAP sensor entirely, requiring the RRFPR to control fuelling as the revs rise? Or does it just act as a regulator when the MAP voltage gets above a certain range where the ECU would normally cut throttle, it caps that voltage so the ECU only sees the 8psi or so and keeps the butterfly open?

  10. #9
    Rt-HemiBoY's Avatar
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    If you go with a reflash you dont need the $200 for the boost clamp.. just pay for the reflash best money spent for this ski..

  11. #10

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    DO the reflash It will be money well spent, Unless you change the boost wheel your oem cooling will do just fine, Tommy Jordan

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