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  1. #1
    HydroFool GPRSHO thomaswester's Avatar
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    Sho tranfer shaft (HELP PLEASE....)

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    Hey
    Have somebody take this transfer shaft from the crank?
    I try like the manuals say, but i have look on the oem parts it's a little special nut (15)there to do i need to take that first?
    I have try to remove it but it's stuck like hell any ideas?
    I really need some help here i need to send my crank to grind to fit the oil clerens for the molnar rods...Please ?
    Thanks
    Thomas Wester


  2. #2
    HydroFool GPRSHO thomaswester's Avatar
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  3. #3
    crashhard's Avatar
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    Yes loosen that inner Allen key nut, it does not come completely out though you will feel it get tight again and that's it. Then heat the transfer shaft and add some pipes to your tools there for some leverage.

    You can probably reassemble with your tools there but it's a pain in the ass with the right tools putting that transfer shaft back on.

  4. #4
    HydroFool GPRSHO thomaswester's Avatar
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    Thanks crashhard.
    The nut is it the same thread like the transfer shaft same way you open it??
    Thanks agen
    Thomas Wester

  5. #5
    HydroFool GPRSHO thomaswester's Avatar
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    Hey
    I found out it's the same tread all the way.
    And BOOM it's pop off, but that was not a easy task.
    will now send the crank to be grinded to right oil clearance.
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    Thanks
    Thomas Wester

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  7. #6
    crashhard's Avatar
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    Glad to see you got it. Wait until you re-install that's when the fun begins.

  8. #7
    Hey Thomas just saw this. Wondering why you are grinding crank? Makes no sense. Molnar rods are all a size 4, look at the front counterweight on the crank and you will find stamped into counterweight 2 sets of numbers, one set of 4 which represents rod journal diameter numerics, and one set of 5 which represents the main journal diameter numerics of the crank. Use the Yamaha oem chart to subtract crank rod journal number (usually a number 2 seems like) from the rod size which is a 4. Subtracting 2 from 4 leaves you 2 which correlates to a correct color rod bearing to use. The block is also stamped with main journal numerics on the right hand lower side, (usually a 5 seems like) for all 5 main journals. Take the number 5 block and subtract the crank main number 2 equals a 3 which correlates to correct main bearing color. If you do not have a factory Yamaha oem shop manual get one. If your building this engine you need one. It answers all questions. Copies on ebay on CD are less than 10 bucks, buy now! Hope this helps Thomas

  9. #8

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    when you re install the crank because you have had it all apart there is a plug in the end of the casing you must replace and torque to a high torque setting. if you dod not your crank can move and will trash your engine, check and do this if you ahave not already ordered it.

  10. #9

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    Quote Originally Posted by rossnemo View Post
    Hey Thomas just saw this. Wondering why you are grinding crank? Makes no sense. Molnar rods are all a size 4, look at the front counterweight on the crank and you will find stamped into counterweight 2 sets of numbers, one set of 4 which represents rod journal diameter numerics, and one set of 5 which represents the main journal diameter numerics of the crank. Use the Yamaha oem chart to subtract crank rod journal number (usually a number 2 seems like) from the rod size which is a 4. Subtracting 2 from 4 leaves you 2 which correlates to a correct color rod bearing to use. The block is also stamped with main journal numerics on the right hand lower side, (usually a 5 seems like) for all 5 main journals. Take the number 5 block and subtract the crank main number 2 equals a 3 which correlates to correct main bearing color. If you do not have a factory Yamaha oem shop manual get one. If your building this engine you need one. It answers all questions. Copies on ebay on CD are less than 10 bucks, buy now! Hope this helps Thomas
    +1 this is exactly how i did mine recently when i did all my internals. the manual is definately a must.

  11. #10
    HydroFool GPRSHO thomaswester's Avatar
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    Hey
    Please take a look here Ross this is what i get when i plastic gauge the crank.
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...79#post2170279
    please correct me if i'm over the line Ross.

    The oem yamaha shop manual, did you mean the pdf file you get from google its say ex yamaha sho/fx service manual or can you buy a better one, then i definitely going to order one?.

    The crank i hadd rod spinn on have nr: up J22221 P2212 under B014924 1D308
    The crank i bought from you Ross have nr: up J22221 P2222 under B024672 0D308
    Attachment 322418Attachment 322419
    The nr on the crank are they the oem parts nr?
    Sorry Ross im sound like a moron but im very scared to f++k one more crank and it seems you have much experience with this engines.
    Thanks
    Thomas Wester

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