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  1. #1

    GPR1300 engine rebuild options

    G'day guys, looking at getting a 1300r (2004 pv model). It's the right price due to a broken engine.

    Did a comp test on it (cold engine full throttle) and 90psi in the front 2 cylinders was the result, now I know they only run around 5:9:1 stock but I would have expected around 150ish psi?

    The rear cylinder had 30 psi. Stuck a telescopic magnet down but didn't pick up any metal chunks so hopefully may just minimal damage (ski only runs on 2 cylinders though). I can only assume that the oil line has come off the rear, or from years of use, the rear cylinder is the first to get submerged and may have weakened the crankcase gasket and started sucking some air?

    Ski has 165hours on it and otherwise seems to be in good condition for age.

    I don't know what option to go with in regards to the engine.

    Here are the options I was thinking:

    1. Pull engine down to check for damage, if crank housing ok then run with new crank, pistons, re bore and nikasil plated. This will probably run to around AUD $2000 plus a gasket kit.

    2. Same as option 1 except don't worry about getting the cylinders plated which will save around AUD $750.00

    3. If crank housings no good then look at an exchange engine which I can get locally for AUD $2400

    Can do the assembly myself.

    Over to the brains trust

    Cheers


  2. #2
    OzarkYamMonster's Avatar
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    Not sure where to get 04 1300 PV parts ... but I believe the compression should be around 120 psi ..... not 150, if no head work/mods done. Good Luck .... try contacting Rich @ WFO, he is a Yamaha GP go to guy.

  3. #3
    Julian's Avatar
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    Hey Millsis,

    You just have to start pulling it apart to see whats broken, you really need to make sure the crap didnt go under the pistons ( crank and cases are vital, expensive parts )

    Your reeds can be damaged, its all possible.

    Take it apart, if needed show us what it looks like, just go step by step.


    Cheers!

  4. #4
    Cheers guys. Is Nikasil Plating a must?

  5. #5
    Julian's Avatar
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    Yes, you can't do without.

    Theres a lot of info on greenhulk, and i would recommend reading this page of GroupK:
    http://www.groupk.com/y1390.htm

  6. #6
    Ok so got the head off the other day. Front 2 pistons and bores seem fine.

    The problem cylinder looks like the powervalve has come loose from its actuator. I can physically push it back into it's recess very easily, the other 2 on the good cylinders wont move by hand at all.

    It looks like a couple of parts of the powervalve have been shaved off and slightly damaged the bore in 2 spots, 1 is very shallow but one is definitely going to make it a sleeve and re-plate job.

    It hasn't run long like that so hoping the crank will still be ok.

  7. #7
    Respectfully, do the research on the site regarding rebuilding the 12-1300 engines. Most would recommend that you completely disassemble the motor down to the individually parts to determine what is good and what is not. It would appear that you have found the cause of the original failure and if that is all that is wrong, then the rest of the parts should be good but beware that anytime metal is "shaved" from a power valve, that metal can easily get into the crank bearings and cause a failure in the future. Even if the bearings spin "free" (that metal is an aluminum alloy and will not pick up with a magnet) I think you will be investing at least more than the cost of the exchange motor to rebuild your motor so you have some decisions to make. If the "exchange" comes with a warranty, then you will probably be ok with that route and will spend less money.

    If, on the other hand, you want to make sure that everything is perfect, then the additional cost of replacing the crank with one that has new bearings, using OEM gaskets and seals and making sure that all components are completely serviceable is the more sensible move. You mention "sleeving" and then plating. While this is possible it it expensive and if your front two cylinders are Ok, they could probably just be replated. The bad cylinder can be welded and replated to the original bore size if the damage is not too bad or you can sometimes find an ok used one and have it replated. Sleeving all three is an option but there are lots of reasons most manufacturers now go with plating over sleeved cylinders. If you do not plan to run it hard, you might get by with sleeves but most would not recommend it. I take it you are "down under" and I do not know if or how many options you have for getting the plating done but going with the stock plated cylinders is by far and away the best method for a reliable engine when you are all done. Sadly, there is no economical way to rebuild a modern pwc engine and have it last. If you got the ski cheap enough, then investing in it makes sense. This forum is littered with stories of folks that tried to "get by" with the cheaper route and ended up either doing the job again or just parting out the ski. Best of luck.

  8. +1 by:


  9. #8
    Thanks, yep in Australia.

    Looking at the pistons, they all have different part numbers 60t03-04bjc, 60t03-04bka, 60t03-04aoa.

    The Yamaha parts fiche lists 4 standard options a,b,c,d and different colours. I assume that somewhere the cylinders are marked with a,b,c,d???

    Will getting a generic aftermarket standard piston kit still work?

  10. #9
    TuningForkMarine's Avatar
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    stock compression for gp13R is 135 psi. 120 is too low. as for parts you cant go wrong with oem pistons, make sure its 60T PISTON. ALL 3 are the same. if you cant afford the OEM wiseco pistons are Just as good if not better. stay away from SBT pistons and the company all together. i have had nothing but trouble with SBT and the new customer support is flat out terrible.. get piston rings from "RIK" as for the cylinders, dont go steel if you want to run the ski for a while. nik lasts longer.

    and please get wave eater clips when you rebuild

  11. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by bystrov View Post
    stock compression for gp13R is 135 psi. 120 is too low. as for parts you cant go wrong with oem pistons, make sure its 60T PISTON. ALL 3 are the same. if you cant afford the OEM wiseco pistons are Just as good if not better. stay away from SBT pistons and the company all together. i have had nothing but trouble with SBT and the new customer support is flat out terrible.. get piston rings from "RIK" as for the cylinders, dont go steel if you want to run the ski for a while. nik lasts longer.

    and please get wave eater clips when you rebuild
    bystrov My name is Jeremy and I have worked in Sales and Customer service for the last 7 years at SBT. I would like to help you with any issues you have had. Please call me so we can discuss them. 727-443-0373 ext 203. I look forward to hearing from you and hearing about any possible unresolved issues.

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