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  1. #1
    Toobold's Avatar
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    2010 RXT-X Drive-Shaft spline failures.

    Hey everyone, I wanted to get some input the drive-shafts on the 2010 Rxt-X 260. I posted posted last week about a upcoming ride I have planned for this coming July. I got some great input on things to look for and I would like to thank everyone for that. My question is I got some feedback about the 2010 RXT-X having a bad drive-shaft due to spline failures. Is this a common failure with these 2010 ski's or is it happening mainly to ski's that have been modified. Mine has got 109 hours on it and not a lot of out of water time due to jumping or smashing through rough waters. I had one member recommended that this drive shaft needed to be replaced with the 2011 setup and it would be a matter of time before my 2010 D-shaft failed. Just wanted to get some more opinions before I jump into a replacement. Thanks again everyone!!!


  2. #2
    Nothin' better than Doo'in it! BigDaddyRXP's Avatar
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    Both 2010 & 2011's have issues. It's just a matter of how many hours will you go before your shaft strips out? A buddy with a 2011 recently stripped his shaft, and prop on a bone stock ski w/ 160 hours. He was lucky to go that many hours... compared to many others I know. It's not an issue with the shaft, it's an issue with how the pump's mounted. Your 2010 drive shaft will most likely be updated to the newer (and older) carbon hat design when you order a new one. The only way to fix the ski for good is to replace the pump shoe with a 12+ shoe. This requires a new pump also, as well as many other parts to do the conversion... not to mention a lot of work. BRP really f'd up on these two year models
    Last edited by BigDaddyRXP; 02-10-2014 at 08:20 PM.

  3. #3
    Toobold's Avatar
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    Not what I wanted to hear, but thank you.

  4. #4
    Nothin' better than Doo'in it! BigDaddyRXP's Avatar
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    Another issue on these models are the mounting plates that the ibr bucket mounts to. Their plastic plates with molded in brass inserts, which normally start to spin due to the loctite on the bolts when you try to remove them.... or over tighten them going back together.

  5. #5
    Tiny's Avatar
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    The drive shafts technically arent the bad component, it is the pump bolts. The way BRP mounted the pump to the ride plate on the 09-11 was a lets say not so great idea. The bolts loosen, the pump slides back and then the splines strip.

    The shaft was a bad design on these years because it had a threaded floating ring that sits against the carbon ring and when it strips, it is a mother trucker to get it apart. I have seen some people use a cut of wheel to cut the shaft in half to get it out of the ski....

    There was/is a update bulletin to replace and upgrade the bolts that hold the pump to the ride plate, it is free to you if yours hasnt been done.

    Make sure the dealer follows the bulletin to the exact letter!!!! They CAN NOT start unit for 24 HOURS AFTER they install the new bolts!!!!! The thread locker that comes on the bolts needs time to set up.

    I have done many of these updates and after they are done, there are no more issues....

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by Tiny View Post
    The drive shafts technically arent the bad component, it is the pump bolts. The way BRP mounted the pump to the ride plate on the 09-11 was a lets say not so great idea. The bolts loosen, the pump slides back and then the splines strip.

    The shaft was a bad design on these years because it had a threaded floating ring that sits against the carbon ring and when it strips, it is a mother trucker to get it apart. I have seen some people use a cut of wheel to cut the shaft in half to get it out of the ski....

    There was/is a update bulletin to replace and upgrade the bolts that hold the pump to the ride plate, it is free to you if yours hasnt been done.

    Make sure the dealer follows the bulletin to the exact letter!!!! They CAN NOT start unit for 24 HOURS AFTER they install the new bolts!!!!! The thread locker that comes on the bolts needs time to set up.

    I have done many of these updates and after they are done, there are no more issues....
    My 2010 S3 stripped 3 drive shafts. I changed to the 2011 C-clip style and haven't have any further failures. Its the drive shaft. My pump is bolted to the ride plate and I have no issues. 68-140 charger 8900-9000 RPM & 85MPH & no drive shaft issues. Just my 02

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  8. #7
    JT jpt7779's Avatar
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    Toobold, I have many more hours on my 2010 T-X than you do and have run the shit out of my ski for years. I had my drive shaft replaced with the 2011 c-clip style around the 50 hour point due to PTO shaft oil seal leaking and vibration. It turned out to be a very poor factory engine alignment with the pump. 100% of the guys (about 9) that have used my alignment tools have found the factory alignment off and once re-aligned none have had anymore drive shaft, spline, and or pump issues. I have had my pump off countless times and have NEVER had any issues with the pump or pump bolts, because I replaced the bolts per the service bulletin and torque them down correctly myself. I disagree with Bigdaddy about needing a 2012 pump shoe. I also disagree with Tiny about the drive shaft, the OEM 2010-11 drive shaft with the screw on floating ring is a POS, has weak metallurgy and weak splines and has been discussed countless times on this forum. The pump bolts were a totally separate issue but, did contribute to drive shaft spline failures due to the pump not being secure.

    You have not abused your ski like some of us have and you have been very lucky. Glade Rider has MUCH experience with this ski and had 3 drive shaft failures, that is why he suggested the drive shaft update.

    My advise is the following for your long trip:

    1. Update to the c-clip style drive shaft and ALL of the components - PTO seal, carbon ring, c clip, floating ring and bellows
    2. Check your engine alignment if you haven't done it yet
    3. Install correct length pump bolts and torque per instructions
    4. Have SC completely rebuilt if not done recently
    5. Oil, filter, plugs
    6. Change out coolant if you haven't done it yet

    Sounds like a good trip and that you will be well prepared!

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  10. #8
    SLASHER's Avatar
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    I had the original shaft fail at 58 hours and now done 140 hrs with C clip style shaft and no problems ...

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  12. #9
    wotxxxsd's Avatar
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    If you don't change it before you ride again just bring some good tow rope and read up on how to tow your ski so you don't injest water.

  13. #10
    Yup. My dealer changed the bolts that attach the pump to the plate. Before that my machine started shrieking on a ride. The dealer did $3000 in repair work on the drive line. He said I sucked a rope. I didn't think so because I've seen a sucked up rope before but hey, he's the expert dealer. I had my insurance cover it. And now I'm getting a new engine under warranty because two overheats caused engine paint blister, corrosion and damaged head gasket. So, I'm gonna have pretty much a new power train soon.

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