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  1. #1

    3M Scotch-Grip or Loc-tite?

    Some of the suspension bolts on my ski call for new bolts each time they are removed. They are M8 50's hex. In the Seadoo parts listing they are listed ar Scotch-lock bolts.

    When I checked out Scotch-Lock it appears to be a Loc-tite kind of product, applied at the factory and left to dry on the bolts. When they are torque'd up the Scotch-Lock becomes liquid and cures the bolt in the thread within 24hrs.

    My question, could I just use new regular M8 50's and apply high strength Loc-tite?

    Is this too simple to be obvious?

    Ordering OEM parts in Sweden takes forever and costs a fortune as they are all imported.

    Thoughts?


  2. #2
    Tiny's Avatar
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    Depends on where they are being installed??? Is it worth a risk of Loc-tite not working or holding????

  3. #3
    They are on an aS RXT.

    They hold down the back suspension arms to the main lower deck, so quite important! Thing is everytime you need to do anything (except dip oil or check coolant) you have to lift the top deck up 300mm. You cannot even change the oil filter without doing this. Aaarrrggghhh.

    But having to replace 6 bolts from BRP (read overpriced regular everyday hardware shop items)every time is almost more expensive than filling it with fuel, given that it's up and down more times than a hooker's skirt!

    My thought was that Loc-tite super strength would give the same effect??

    Maybe there is no option, maybe all other bonding agents fail due to xyz, that's why I ask.

  4. #4
    HydroFool GPRSHO thomaswester's Avatar
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    Loctite will definitely do the job, just replace with A4 stainless steel bolt and put a dip on them with loctite.
    Thanks
    Thomas Wester

  5. #5
    A4 SS bolts ordered from Ebay - already have loctite in a few strengths - jobs done!

    Now just the fun bit of doing it - but I love my aS, so I forgive her.

  6. #6
    Tiny's Avatar
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    You will be fine by not replacing them..I havent replaced one of those yet unless it is damaged.

    And I am not trying to be a dick or anything, but you have to know how to change the oil and have the correct tools...The top deck does not have to be lifted up or off to change the oil filter... But then again, I a have been doing this for years so it is easier for me then it might be for you...

  7. #7
    Thanks for input Tiny, I know you have heaps of experience. Are you saying that you can change the oil filter without lifting the rear of the deck?? Do you have a special method or just fiddle at arms length with various shortened tools?

    Please share

  8. #8
    Tiny's Avatar
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    I have a small 1/4 in ratchet with a e10 socket and you can access the filter canister like that. When you take the bolt loose, it will raise up and start to comes out. There is just enough room to get the filter out while attached to the cap with the airbox still in place the the under seat shroud still in place and the upper deck in place too.

    Total length of my ratchet might be 6 inches, i bought it from Matco or snap on just for this job.

  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Tiny View Post
    I have a small 1/4 in ratchet with a e10 socket and you can access the filter canister like that. When you take the bolt loose, it will raise up and start to comes out. There is just enough room to get the filter out while attached to the cap with the airbox still in place the the under seat shroud still in place and the upper deck in place too.

    Total length of my ratchet might be 6 inches, i bought it from Matco or snap on just for this job.
    Thanks. I bought a mini 1/4" ratchet a few years back specifically to remove that one torx on the SC bracket that is tricky.

    So it makes sense to use this to remove the OF. Never would have imagined that the extra few mm gained by keeping the cap on would have made a difference, but obviously it does. Will venture in an give it a go, I have done OF's on previous 4Tec's a million times so can manage to assemble and insert the ring seals blind in my sleep.

    Only thing now is that I saw a small puddle of lime green coolant sitting in the hull when I looked in through the battery access, just hope it's a loose clamp or split hose. Then I guess it is up with the deck as a minimum? Unless you are a trained OBG!!

    Cheers

  10. #10
    Tiny's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tornado34 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by Tiny View Post
    I have a small 1/4 in ratchet with a e10 socket and you can access the filter canister like that. When you take the bolt loose, it will raise up and start to comes out. There is just enough room to get the filter out while attached to the cap with the airbox still in place the the under seat shroud still in place and the upper deck in place too.

    Total length of my ratchet might be 6 inches, i bought it from Matco or snap on just for this job.
    Thanks. I bought a mini 1/4" ratchet a few years back specifically to remove that one torx on the SC bracket that is tricky.

    So it makes sense to use this to remove the OF. Never would have imagined that the extra few mm gained by keeping the cap on would have made a difference, but obviously it does. Will venture in an give it a go, I have done OF's on previous 4Tec's a million times so can manage to assemble and insert the ring seals blind in my sleep.

    Only thing now is that I saw a small puddle of lime green coolant sitting in the hull when I looked in through the battery access, just hope it's a loose clamp or split hose. Then I guess it is up with the deck as a minimum? Unless you are a trained OBG!!

    Cheers
    A 1/4 inch ratcheting wrench works great on that pesky SC bolt on the back side.

    Yeah, if you have a coolant leak, the deck would have to be lifted up and the inner shroud would have to come out in order to find and fix it properly....Or it might be some overflow from the bottle???

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