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  1. #1

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    2003 Genesis i 1200 DI rough idle and revving

    Hi all,

    im new to the forum. I am having troubles with my Polaris genesis i 1200DI idling rough like it misfires and stalls. It also doesn't revv properly like it struggles to get to higher rpms. No check engine lights are flashing. It doesnt have flame arrestors. It has new spark plugs (PZFR6H) and they all spark. I pulled the reeds out and checked them and found the middle cyclinder reeds had blue/white oily gunk over it so i cleaned them up. Still no good. Compression test is fine. I took it to a dealer and they said it was the EMM needed replacing but i wanted to check if it was something else as i didnt feel like spending $1500.

    Any help is much appreciated,

    thanks Matt


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Is this 2003 Genesis i new to you?

    The problem cause MAY be the EMM but it could be something else.

    See my signature links for lots of useful info regarding your Ficht engine.

    Does the display work properly? Any water inside the display?

    Unplug the TPS, located under the rear end of the air intake. See if the engine will start and idle smoothly.

    What happened to the flame arrestor?

  3. #3
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    If there is no flame arrestor is possible there is no air temp sensor?

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome

    Is this 2003 Genesis i new to you?

    The problem cause MAY be the EMM but it could be something else.

    See my signature links for lots of useful info regarding your Ficht engine.

    Does the display work properly? Any water inside the display?

    Unplug the TPS, located under the rear end of the air intake. See if the engine will start and idle smoothly.

    What happened to the flame arrestor?

    No i have had this for a few years now and it started doing it.

    Yes the display works properly and doesnt seem like there is water in there. I tried opening it up but this must be a sealed unit is it?

    Today i started it and it kept stalling every two seconds like it needed warming up. After a while it would run for a bit so i unplug the TPS and it stalled straight away.

    Im a bit confused on the flame arrestor. Is this the air filter or should there be mesh located covering the intake holes? Because it has a air filter.

    The air sensor silicon has a bit of chunk missing could that be it? I cut down the air intake cover like you said in your signatures.

    Thanks

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wiggo600 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome

    Is this 2003 Genesis i new to you?

    The problem cause MAY be the EMM but it could be something else.

    See my signature links for lots of useful info regarding your Ficht engine.

    Does the display work properly? Any water inside the display?

    Unplug the TPS, located under the rear end of the air intake. See if the engine will start and idle smoothly.

    What happened to the flame arrestor?
    ... i have had this for a few years now and it started doing it.

    Yes the display works properly and doesn't seem like there is water in there. I tried opening it up but this must be a sealed unit is it?

    Today i started it and it kept stalling every two seconds like it needed warming up. After a while it would run for a bit so i unplug the TPS and it stalled straight away.

    Im a bit confused on the flame arrestor. Is this the air filter or should there be mesh located covering the intake holes? Because it has a air filter.

    The air sensor silicon has a bit of chunk missing could that be it? I cut down the air intake cover like you said in your signatures.

    Thanks
    All Polaris digital displays are sealed units. No need to open the MFI display, nothing really repairable inside anyways.

    Engine starting and then immediately quitting sounds like the EMM needs repair.

    Connect a voltmeter to the White/Red wires somewhere and measure the voltage to engine ground. Do not unplug any injectors, find some other place to tap into the White/Red wiring.

    The measured voltage should be over 20 volts when cranking, then jump up to around 45 volts when the engine starts. The voltage should then remain stable at around 45 volts. This is the main 'injector voltage' and powers the injectors, the ignition and the EMM itself.

  6. #6

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    i havnt checked the fuel pressures on it but its not hard to get the fuel pump out to see if the pressure regulator has fallen off. Turns out theres not even one there on the fuel line or anywhere in the tank. I then realised it has an inline one just after the tee on the return line. Do the genesis come stock like that or has someone put this on before i got this ski?

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wiggo600 View Post
    i haven't checked the fuel pressures on it but its not hard to get the fuel pump out to see if the pressure regulator has fallen off. Turns out theres not even one there on the fuel line or anywhere in the tank. I then realised it has an inline one just after the tee on the return line. Do the genesis come stock like that or has someone put this on before i got this ski?
    Fuel pressure is checked (on a stock machine) at the schrader valve tee, which is located in the fuel return line. Should be a little over 20 PSI when engine is cranking or running.

    The stock fuel pressure regulator is inside the fuel pump body, inside the fuel tank.

    One of the repair methods when the OEM pressure regulator falls off inside the fuel tank is to install a Kawasaki inline pressure regulator between the schrader tee fitting and the fuel pump return fitting. I have noticed variations is the actual fuel pressure with the Kawasaki part so the actual fuel pressure should be checked after installing this modification/repair.

  8. #8

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    All Polaris digital displays are sealed units. No need to open the MFI display, nothing really repairable inside anyways.

    Engine starting and then immediately quitting sounds like the EMM needs repair.

    Connect a voltmeter to the White/Red wires somewhere and measure the voltage to engine ground. Do not unplug any injectors, find some other place to tap into the White/Red wiring.

    The measured voltage should be over 20 volts when cranking, then jump up to around 45 volts when the engine starts. The voltage should then remain stable at around 45 volts. This is the main 'injector voltage' and powers the injectors, the ignition and the EMM itself.
    ok so found a place to measure the voltage. Not sure about cranking voltage as the engine starts too quickly but when the engine idles its smooth 45volts as you said.

    ok so someone has put an inline fuel pressure in. So im unsure what kind or where it came from.
    Last edited by K447; 02-24-2014 at 12:15 AM.

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wiggo600 View Post
    All Polaris digital displays are sealed units. No need to open the MFI display, nothing really repairable inside anyways.

    Engine starting and then immediately quitting sounds like the EMM needs repair.

    Connect a voltmeter to the White/Red wires somewhere and measure the voltage to engine ground. Do not unplug any injectors, find some other place to tap into the White/Red wiring.

    The measured voltage should be over 20 volts when cranking, then jump up to around 45 volts when the engine starts. The voltage should then remain stable at around 45 volts. This is the main 'injector voltage' and powers the injectors, the ignition and the EMM itself.
    ok so found a place to measure the voltage. Not sure about cranking voltage as the engine starts too quickly but when the engine idles its smooth 45volts as you said.

    ok so someone has put an inline fuel pressure in. So im unsure what kind or where it came from.
    Post a couple of clear photos. I am expecting to see it be the Kawasaki part.

    Sounds like the injector voltage is good since it starts quickly AND the correct 45 volts is present.

    It could still be the EMM internally. You say it improves after multiple starts. Where are you located?

  10. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by wiggo600 View Post
    All Polaris digital displays are sealed units. No need to open the MFI display, nothing really repairable inside anyways.

    Engine starting and then immediately quitting sounds like the EMM needs repair.

    Connect a voltmeter to the White/Red wires somewhere and measure the voltage to engine ground. Do not unplug any injectors, find some other place to tap into the White/Red wiring.

    The measured voltage should be over 20 volts when cranking, then jump up to around 45 volts when the engine starts. The voltage should then remain stable at around 45 volts. This is the main 'injector voltage' and powers the injectors, the ignition and the EMM itself.
    ok so found a place to measure the voltage. Not sure about cranking voltage as the engine starts too quickly but when the engine idles its smooth 45volts as you said.

    ok so someone has put an inline fuel pressure in. So im unsure what kind or where it came from.
    Post a couple of clear photos. I am expecting to see it be the Kawasaki part.

    Sounds like the injector voltage is good since it starts quickly AND the correct 45 volts is present.

    It could still be the EMM internally. You say it improves after multiple starts. Where are you located?

    I pulled the EMM out and checked to see if i could see anything blown through the resin. Saw nothing so i plugged in back in to do a fuel pressure check. Started it up and it was idleing and running without stalling. It was idleing ok but could be a bit better. Did a pressure test and got 37 which is out of range. I pulled the EMM plugs off and blew them out and used some dielectric grease thinking that could of been the problem. Just weird how i pulled the EMM off and put it back in and now it idles.

    here are some photos of the inline fuel pressure
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