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  1. #1

    1100 waveraider performance modification

    Im building a engine up for my triple conversion for my wave blaster I thought maybe you guys would be interested in the build and results. As you can see here im just adding the jbweld to allow me to grind on the cases
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  2. #2
    In this thread I am marking out the boost port as I am running a big taper on it, the taper helps throttle response alot.
    Its roughed out in the finial picture and will be finished when the cylinder is on
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  3. #3
    From here its into the cases and roughing them out to get them to flow, The stock yami cases are such a terrible thing and need work to make them go,
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  4. #4
    If they said they could port your cylinder with the sleeves in they lied. You cant do a decent job with the sleeves in, its just not possible. Here I am mesuring the port heights. This thing is a outboard engine and no wonder they dont have much power
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  5. #5
    Well here is the results from the port heights. As you can see the stock one is very lame. Actually a 5mm stroker in this cylinder would be a very good thing. I however have a stock crank and its going to be that. You can see where I am going to have to lift the ports to
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  6. #6
    With the sleeves out you can really get in there and work on the transfer tunnels. You can see the taper i have put in the transfers now. I love having a sand blaster to tidy up the work afterwards. I also dropped the bridge in the divider to reduce some of the parasitic flow resistance of the divider
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  7. #7
    The raidal angles in this engine are all wrong and its surprising it runs. It tries to shove all the fuel out the exhaust and then uses the boost port to help it push the rest out. Its not a well designed engine at all.
    I burrowed the port diagram, was easy then drawing it out myself
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  8. +1 by:


  9. #8
    I pulled the exhaust apart and had a look at that, great pipe its already a full dry system that can be improved on.
    I know some one has done it like this in the past but I will be doing how its changed in this pic. Much better as the water goes in from the bottom and flows out the top. no bubbles and by restricting the flow i can get the exhaust to the temp I want to help over rev
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  10. #9
    quadzilla's Avatar
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    Cool luv it.!

    Hey there Wax..

    First order of business, A very warm welcome to the forum.

    Second order, This thread you have started is exactly what the old school forum has been needing for the last year or two.!
    - Most of the old school regulars have vanished. (myself included to a certain degree.)
    BUT... I have still managed to resist the 4 stroke machines so far..

    I myself am in the process of doing something very similar to what you are doing just now.
    - with a GP1200 ( actually 1130cc how did Yamaha get away with calling it a 1200.??)
    I'm waiting on a few JBweld kits turning up to get the case transfers worked.
    - (I did them about 5 years ago. pretty mild I have to admit when I look at the Lincoln tunnel you have drilled the problem first time around is all the damn secrecy in the jetski porting game.)

    Then I'm going to get in about the cylinder ports (It's currently GroupK spec porting just now)
    - I have one of these racelogic sportport templates, which when I laid it in the cylinder it was pretty much the same as what GroupK had done.? minus the little boost port notch ?

    I use this ski for wave jumping so I'm not too keen on raising the exhaust port much if any.?
    - (love the bottom end hit)
    So will likely just go wider on the exhaust port towards the 70% area.?

    Which brings me to your porting software figures.??
    Raising the exhaust 3mm.??
    50mm & 52mm carbs.??
    10,000+ rpm.?? (Could the crank handle much over 8200.?)
    pistons 4700+fps.?

    My little ski was a running really rather sweet with the above mods and some VF reeds and spacer,
    A Riva CDi and stock compression.
    Well right before it sheared the flywheel off at the crank snout.??
    -(I put that down to letting inexperienced riders play on it.. IF it's in the air get out the damn throttle.!! )

    Keep the pictures coming..
    I'm subscribed for sure..

    Gerry

  11. #10
    Thanks for the welcome.
    The software I am using is for motorbikes as I do alot of motor bike engines.
    I should have blanked those out and please dont read those more just the port timings and port heights.
    If I saw that 10000 rpm I would think the guy was a tosser lol.
    Yes you can raise the exhaust that high if needed.The idea is to get the best blowdown you can with out raising the exhaust to high. the stock exhaust port timing is only 179 degrees and not really much use for anything at that spec.
    Im not talking about blow down timing but blowdown as in the pressure drop. The reason they have gone to triple exhaust ports on decent cylidners is to get the better blowdown this allows you to lower the exhaust port and retain some of the low down power.
    Being a triple and having power strokes every 120 degrees compared to every 180 as in a twin it can handle the higher timing with less effect on its low down.
    I will be using a different ignition curve as well with quite a bit of advance down low to help burn the fuel. This makes a lot of difference in low down torque.

    As for the group k porting well lets be honest groupk hasnt won that many races in his time. He does boats which are a little bit faster than stock, thats his core market and it works well for him.

    I wouldnt go to 70% bore width for the exhaust I would be happy to stay at 65% which I will. The stock port is 54% and thus you are losing alot of power/blowdown because of it.

    I used to do alot of porting on jetskis but there is alot of people doing it now and they are doign it cheaper and it would seem that people dont seem to care about the job just the fact they have a ported engine. I am posting these so people can see what you actually should get for your money

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