Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast
Results 1 to 10 of 33
  1. #1

    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    21

    1200 SLX CDI question (another one!)

    Hi guys and Gday from sunny Australia. Great forum with heaps of info.

    I posted this over at PWC Today earlier but it seems there is more activity here for Polaris guys. Please excuse the cut and paste.


    I have a 2000 SLX which I bought cheap as it was not running (very intermittent/no spark). I am an auto mechanic by trade and have a decent Fluke meter to test with.
    I have read a lot of info on here and downloaded a service manual.
    I have tested the coils/leads etc and they are all in spec.
    I tested the stator to the service manual specs and it appeared to be good too.
    I jumped the CDI power over to the orange with no luck. Also tried holding the bilge button. I cannot hear my bilge pump running but its warm to touch so I suspect it may be seized.

    I have checked all the fuses, disconnected the stop switch wiring and also the tan/grey MFD limiter wiring. The board and connections all look good as someone has sprayed some electrical protector in there at some stage to keep moisture out.

    I am getting 8v out of the
    CDI (brown) when cranking. I have a second car battery hooked up (not running) and have 11.5+ at the CDI (red/p) when cranking (plugs out).

    My only other observation is the LR regulator does get quite warm when the stop button is out (while I am testing). Is this normal? Do I understand correctly the LR in an SLX is not a Stop/Start module rather just a voltage regulator??

    I bit the bullet and fitted a new stator (genuine Polaris supplied by SBT agent in Australia) and this has not fixed the problem. Unfortunately I only noticed SBT are making new CDI's after I ordered the stator!!

    I still get the odd spark now and again but nothing consistent.

    My question is: does this sound consistent with a CDI unit problem. CDI fitted is the 4010379. I really would like this thing fixed but want to be sure the CDI is at fault. Theres not many Polaris where I am so finding a CDI to try is difficult.

    Many thanks for all the help so far and hopefully to come,

    Chris


  2. #2

    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    21
    Another thing to add that may or may not make sense...
    I left the battery hooked up for a little over 24 hours and the ski drained it down to next to nothing. 4.5 volts?
    brand new battery. I am hoping the CDI has had a meltdown internally causing the battery drain.

    This thing continues to do my head in!

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,599
    +1
    1,276
    Quote Originally Posted by chriso57 View Post
    Hi guys and Gday from sunny Australia. Great forum with heaps of info...

    I have a 2000 SLX which I bought cheap as it was not running (very intermittent/no spark). I am an auto mechanic by trade and have a decent Fluke meter to test with.
    I have read a lot of info on here and downloaded a service manual.

    I have tested the coils/leads etc and they are all in spec.
    I tested the stator to the service manual specs and it appeared to be good too.

    I jumped the CDI power over to the orange with no luck.
    Also tried holding the bilge button. I cannot hear my bilge pump running but its warm to touch so I suspect it may be seized.

    I have checked all the fuses, disconnected the stop switch wiring and also the tan/grey MFD limiter wiring. The board and connections all look good as someone has sprayed some electrical protector in there at some stage to keep moisture out.

    I am getting 8v out of the
    CDI (brown) when cranking.
    I have a second car battery hooked up (not running) and have 11.5+ at the CDI (red/p) when cranking (plugs out).


    My only other observation is the LR regulator does get quite warm when the stop button is out (while I am testing). Is this normal?

    Do I understand correctly the LR in an SLX is not a Stop/Start module rather just a voltage regulator??


    I bit the bullet and fitted a new stator (genuine Polaris supplied by SBT agent in Australia) and this has not fixed the problem.
    Unfortunately I only noticed
    SBT are making new CDI's after I ordered the stator!!

    ...
    Quote Originally Posted by chriso57 View Post
    Another thing to add that may or may not make sense...
    I left the battery hooked up for a little over 24 hours and the ski drained it down to next to nothing. 4.5 volts?
    brand new battery. I am hoping the CDI has had a meltdown internally causing the battery drain.

    This thing continues to do my head in!
    Welcome

    Did you move the CDI power connection to Orange or link them together?

    When properly done (per PWC-00-05) the only Red/Purple wire which gets connected to Orange is the single wire that directly feeds into the CDI. All other Red/Purple wires remain as they were.

    I suspect the LR module has failed. Replace.

    The LR module in your machine provides only two functions. Voltage regulation for battery charging and switched output power on Orange wire.

    The voltage regulation function sits between the electrical ground and the Yellow wire of the stator's battery charge coils. The other end of that stator coil charge circuit is directly connected to battery power (Red/Purple stator wire).

    Normally there is zero current flow through the LR module when the engine is not running.

    In your case the battery drain and warmth from the LR module indicates the module has failed internally and is drawing power through the stator coil when the engine is not running.

    Disconnect the LR module entirely. Unplug the bilge pump if it does not run when Bilge button is pressed.

    Now the Bilge button should deliver full battery voltage to the remaining a Orange connections, including the CDI power feed.

    With lanyard in place and Bilge button held down you should have spark.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    21
    Welcome

    Did you move the CDI power connection to Orange or link them together?

    When properly done (per PWC-00-05) the only Red/Purple wire which gets connected to Orange is the single wire that directly feeds into the CDI. All other Red/Purple wires remain as they were.

    I suspect the LR module has failed. Replace.

    The LR module in your machine provides only two functions. Voltage regulation for battery charging and switched output power on Orange wire.

    The voltage regulation function sits between the electrical ground and the Yellow wire of the stator's battery charge coils. The other end of that stator coil charge circuit is directly connected to battery power (Red/Purple stator wire).

    Normally there is zero current flow through the LR module when the engine is not running.

    In your case the battery drain and warmth from the LR module indicates the module has failed internally and is drawing power through the stator coil when the engine is not running.

    Disconnect the LR module entirely. Unplug the bilge pump if it does not run when Bilge button is pressed.

    Now the Bilge button should deliver full battery voltage to the remaining a Orange connections, including the CDI power feed.

    With lanyard in place and Bilge button held down you should have spark.[/QUOTE]

    K447 - thanks for the assistance. It seems you are a well knowledged in this area and I appreciate you contributing.

    Yes I did connect the CDI power red/purple as per the service bulletin i.e. disconnected the male CDI connector from the feed coming from the 15A breaker curcuit and jumped it directly to the orange spade terminals. All other red/purple remained intact. I however cannot remember if I had the bilge pump disconnected at that stage so that is something I will try this afternoon.

    Regarding the LR module - can you suggest a source of these? I see SBT list them for most of the other models but I cannot see one for my SLX. I googled further and found your info regarding the SBT 15-301 part. Will crossover to my SLX yeah?

    Cheers,
    Chris.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,599
    +1
    1,276
    Quote Originally Posted by chriso57 View Post
    ...
    Regarding the LR module - can you suggest a source of these? I see SBT list them for most of the other models but I cannot see one for my SLX. I googled further and found your info regarding the SBT 15-301 part. Will crossover to my SLX yeah?

    Cheers,
    Chris.
    The SLX is quite standard, for Polaris, electrically speaking. The LR module is the same across many models.

    The only difference is the newer LR modules have a different part number and are physically a bit larger than the earlier/older versions. I assume the newer versions have more charging capacity or are more robust, electrically.

    Otherwise they are quite interchangeable.

    The SBT parts are aftermarket and I have never seen any actual electrical specs for them.

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    21
    Keith

    Ive had a couple of hours to think about what you said (along with the wiring diagram) and yeah this is starting to make sense. The Switched (orange) output of the LR had constant power with the battery connected. It only had around 5 volts with the bilge (orange/black) connected and jumped to full battery volts when disconnected. I guess this was putting quite a load on the system and I am surprised the 3A fuse didnt pop...? When connecting/disconnecting the battery main earth lead there was definately a load present as there was a significant spark.

    The other thing I thought was weird was the behaviour of the grounding system in the electrical box. When doing all my earthing ohm tests with the battery disconnected everything was sweet and in spec including checking between e box and the engine. When the battery was then reconnected the resistance between the e box ground and the engine would go sky high i.e. into the Mega ohms range.

    I am wondering if the LR would maybe have been causing some back feeding into the grounding system causing high resistance and weird issues. Any thoughts?

    Cheers
    Chris

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,599
    +1
    1,276
    Quote Originally Posted by chriso57 View Post
    ...
    The other thing I thought was weird was the behaviour of the grounding system in the electrical box. When doing all my earthing ohm tests with the battery disconnected everything was sweet and in spec including checking between e box and the engine. When the battery was then reconnected the resistance between the e box ground and the engine would go sky high i.e. into the Mega ohms range.

    I am wondering if the LR would maybe have been causing some back feeding into the grounding system causing high resistance and weird issues. Any thoughts?

    Cheers
    Chris
    You cannot use an ohmmeter on a powered circuit. Not even to check grounding resistances. Even a tiny voltage differential can wildly skew the meter readings.

  8. #8

    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    21
    Righto update.


    I disconnected the bilge and removed the LR module completely. This corrected the voltage situation at the orange terminal strip. Disconnected the CDI power feed from the red purple and jumped it over to the orange. 0 volts at rest. 12.5v when the bilge button was pressed. dropped to 11.5v when cranked (plugs out). All measurements taken with my trusty Fluke at the box. Still no spark.

    Grounding from box to motor is 0.1-0.2 ohms measured from the grounding cluster to the HT lead grounding point.

    Brown wire out of the CDI does power up (~9v) when cranking.

    I have a CDI on order. Hope its going to sort it

    On a side note I noticed my CDI power in wire (red purple) when disconnected from the 15A breaker will hold voltage. i.e. the CDI is storing power. When then connected to the orange it immediately dumps the power into the orange curcuit. Am I thinking correctly this is the philosophy behind the Polaris rework? As to discharge the power out of the CDI completely putting it to sleep and then reawakening the next time the motor is cranked and power is generated and fed to the orange by the LR module.

    Chriso

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    near Toronto, Canada
    Posts
    36,599
    +1
    1,276
    Quote Originally Posted by chriso57 View Post
    ...
    On a side note I noticed my CDI power in wire (red purple) when disconnected from the 15A breaker will hold voltage. i.e. the CDI is storing power. When then connected to the orange it immediately dumps the power into the orange curcuit.

    Am I thinking correctly this is the philosophy behind the Polaris rework?
    As to discharge the power out of the CDI completely putting it to sleep and then reawakening the next time the motor is cranked and power is generated and fed to the orange by the LR module.

    Chriso
    Essentially correct.

  10. #10

    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Australia
    Posts
    21
    Hi there,

    Another update and a question.

    I fitted a new LR regulator (an SBT equivalent to OEM) and now when cranking I have no power output to the orange. Have battery voltage at the red/purple sensing wire. Double checked the resistance from the base plate to ground thats OK. Checked the resistance in the charging coil (red/purple to yellow) and thats 0.75-0.8 ohms (its a new stator). I am not sure what sort of AC output the coil should push but my meter shows somewhere around 6VAC at cranking speed.

    Does the CDI have anything to do with this charging curcuit? I would think not. I would think the charging coil is passed by a magnet on the flywheel causing the AC production or does the CDI create some sort of field for induction???

    Stiiiillll waiting for my CDI from the US to see if I can get this thing to spark. Not a pleasant experience so far I can tell you.

    Cheers,
    Chris

Page 1 of 4 1 2 3 ... LastLast

Thread Information

Users Browsing this Thread

There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)

Similar Threads

  1. 2000 Polaris SLX 1200 stator install question
    By parryc13 in forum Polaris How To & FAQs
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 07-28-2015, 02:40 PM
  2. 1200 SLX 2001 CDI unit.
    By Richieb in forum Polaris Classifieds
    Replies: 0
    Last Post: 08-09-2009, 08:44 PM
  3. Yep, here's another one...
    By bilgepump in forum 2-Stroke Performance
    Replies: 18
    Last Post: 12-20-2006, 09:48 AM
  4. 1200 SLX, should I be worried part 2
    By bobolie in forum Polaris PWC Performance
    Replies: 16
    Last Post: 09-20-2006, 08:54 AM
  5. one problem fixed BUT I have another one
    By shhr in forum 4-Tec Performance
    Replies: 11
    Last Post: 09-09-2006, 03:38 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •