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  1. #1

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    2000 Virage Bilge Pump Issue

    Hello all,

    New to the forum. I've look on here quite a bit and this seems like an awesome forum.

    Ok so, I recently bought a 2000 Polaris Virage. Ski runs fine but I noticed the bilge pump wasn't working. I tested voltage at the connector, 0 volts.

    Tested at the switch and I got 10v on both sides of the switch (whether it was pressed or not)........odd.
    Tested the switch, works fine.
    Took a look see in the electric box and found a blown 3A fuse. Replaced.

    Now I have 12v at the bilge connector. Here's the kicker, plugged the pump back in and nothing. I put 12v directly from the batt to the pump and the pump runs fine and the connector is good....So I'm kinda scratching my head.

    Anyone have any problems like this? I read some interesting threads on the LR-505. Am I another victim? Thanks in advance.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Did the new fuse blow?

    Bilge is a rather simple circuit. When Bilge button is pressed battery voltage should arrive at the Orange wires. From there it goes through the 3 Amp fuse and to the bilge pump. Back from the bilge pump to ground in the electrical box.

  3. #3

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    No the new fuse did not blow. I put my meter in series with the pump and I get ~1.5 amps (@ 12v) But the pump does not run. I feel that it is going to be something simple and I'm going to kick myself. Hahaha!

  4. #4

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    I also have 12v on the orange wire even when the button is not pressed....

  5. #5

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    Ok, so im pretty sure its the LR module. Something happened shortly after I tested voltage. The pump started, then stopped by itself....a couple of time actually. With the engine off, the orange wire from the regulator has 12v when the pump is disconnected. When the pump IS connected im getting ~1.0v; enough to slightly turn the pump. Somehow there is a small amount of volts/amps passing through the regulator. I also removed the yellow wire to the reg. and the problem was still there.

    The fix: I removed the orange wire, secured and insulated the terminal, and left the wires from the switch and the pump with the fuse in place. The pump obviously will not run automatically with the engine running, but at least I can operate the pump manually.

    What do you guys think?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    I suspect the LR module is bad.

  7. #7

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    Any reason I shouldn't run it without the bilge connection?

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by capt_ben View Post
    Any reason I shouldn't run it without the bilge connection?
    Electrically, no issues.

    Do check the battery voltage with engine running. It should be right around 14.5 volts with engine running and be stable as RPM changes.

  9. #9

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    Will do.

    One more quick question, is the speedometer on the MFD affected by the LR module? I know it uses pitot tube but its is maxed at 80mph.

  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by capt_ben View Post
    ... is the speedometer on the MFD affected by the LR module? I know it uses pitot tube but its is maxed at 80mph.
    MFI display should not be affected by LR voltage regulator troubles.
    (With the exception of the MFI tachometer on carburetor engines, on rare occasion).

    Disconnect the clear plastic tube behind the display. See if the speedo returns to zero. If it does then the clear plastic tube is kinked or crushed somewhere.

    You may need to reboot the display. Just unplug the large Deutsch connector from the back of the display. Wait more than 10 minutes, then reconnect. The speedo needle should do a full sweep from zero to max, then go back to zero. See the MFD section of my signature links for some more info and even some videos.

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