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  1. #1

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    2001 Polaris Virage Wont Run

    Hello!
    I have a 2001 Virage 2 cylinder that I cannot get running. It cranks and cranks but no go. Electrical box is a little messy, but I am cleaning up the connections and loose wires now. The display will not work... I think it is because I was using a battery charger to test it at first, How is that fixed, a fuse or something?

    I did figure one reason it is not running is because it is not getting spark, why is that? The guy that had it before took the BLK/YEL coming from the CDI and split it so it goes to the BLK/YEL going to the rest of the ski and then it alspo connects to a BLK/GRN that goes into the LR module.... what is that for?
    PLEASE HELP!
    Thanks in advanced!!

    PS:The battery is good, and when it cranks it only drops to 11.5 so I do not think that is the problem.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Work through the wiring diagram and verify the actual wiring in the electrical box is all correct.

    Black/Yellow is ignition kill signal to the CDI. Both the lanyard kill switch and the LR module feed the kill signal to the CDI.

  3. #3

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    1st, Thank you!
    2nd UPDATE: Got MFD working by replacing 1/4 A fuse. Also only get spark sometimes, Ill be cranking it may spark once, then again in another second after continuous cranking... Cannot figure this one out!
    Thanks!

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheeman2222 View Post
    ... only get spark sometimes, I'll be cranking it may spark once, then again in another second after continuous cranking... Cannot figure this one out! ...
    The CDI can do this when either the battery voltage to the CDI is below minimum or the ignition kill signal is grounded.

    In no particular order;
    Bypass the LR-505 module (details have been posted in other threads)

    Hold down the Bilge button. Bilge pump should run. Keep the Bilge button down and see if you now have good spark.

    Put your multi-meter probe directly to Red/Purple wire that feeds into the CDI module. Put the Black meter probe on the Black wire for the CDI.
    Monitor voltage as the engine cranks. Voltage must stay well above 10.6 volts while cranking, at the CDI.

    Disconnect the Black/Yellow ignition kill wire to the CDI. This will prevent the kill switch from working, so if the engine actually starts you need to know how you are going to get it stopped!

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    In no particular order;
    Bypass the LR-505 module (details have been posted in other threads)

    Hold down the Bilge button. Bilge pump should run. Keep the Bilge button down and see if you now have good spark.

    Put your multi-meter probe directly to Red/Purple wire that feeds into the CDI module. Put the Black meter probe on the Black wire for the CDI.
    Monitor voltage as the engine cranks. Voltage must stay well above 10.6 volts while cranking, at the CDI.

    Disconnect the Black/Yellow ignition kill wire to the CDI. This will prevent the kill switch from working, so if the engine actually starts you need to know how you are going to get it stopped!
    Okay, I Disconnected the Black/Yellow wire and that didn't change anything, when I hold down the blidge pump, that doesnt help either... I am also getting 11.58 volts on red/purple CDI wire in and ground...
    Last edited by wheeman2222; 03-19-2014 at 06:25 PM.

  6. #6

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    Also was looking at other threads, and saw that the black/white wires were suppose to have 300 volts in them? I am not getting anything between then AC or DC... maybe think LR module? Going to try LR override...

    I am also not getting anything above 1 volt when checking black/white wire in ref to ground on either...

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheeman2222 View Post
    Also was looking at other threads, and saw that the black/white wires were suppose to have 300 volts in them? I am not getting anything between then AC or DC... maybe think LR module? Going to try LR override...

    I am also not getting anything above 1 volt when checking black/white wire in ref to ground on either...
    First we eliminate the things that are easy, obvious, or common trouble points.

    The things around the CDI that can affect spark include;
    Battery voltage into the CDI while cranking
    Ignition kill signal
    Wiring problems

    Eventually we get down to the core of the system: Flywheel, Stator, CDI, ignition coil pack

    The CDI will not generate voltage spikes into the ignition coil unless everything feeding the CDI is good.

    The. Black/White wires driving the ignition coil are driver by the CDI. If the CDI is not happy then there is no ignition pulse into the coils and no spark.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheeman2222 View Post
    ... I Disconnected the Black/Yellow wire and that didn't change anything, when I hold down the blidge pump, that doesnt help either...

    I am also getting 11.58 volts on red/purple CDI wire in and ground...
    I cannot check the wiring in the electrical box from here, so let's assume for the moment the wiring is correct.

    I presume you removed the incorrect link between Black/Yellow and Black/Green, correct?

    Slip your meter probe into the bullet connector in the Brown wire from the CDI that feeds the stator. When the engine is cranking there should be around 8 volts on this Brown wire. This 8 volts is what powers the stator Hall effect sensors, and it comes from the CDI.

    If you have 8 volts on stator Brown when engine is cranking, next step is to check the stator coils and Hall Effect sensors.

    There is a thread in the tech section, with links from my signature stuff, that describes how to check the domestic ignition system, including the stator ohm checks.

    If the stator tests good, there is 8 volts from the CDI going to the stator, and the wiring is all correct, then the CDI is possibly bad.

  9. #9

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    Okay, well attached is a picture of my CDI... do you think its need to replaced based on the looks? It seems as there has been some water in the electrical box at one point or another because there is small amounts of rust here and there...

    I did Try the LR Override and nothing changed, I will try the stator checks next.. I did have over 8 volts from the brown wire so that seems to be working...

    Also when i have everything wire as it should according to the wiring diagram, when I hold down the bilge pump the motor will not turn over, i think its when there is voltage going into the orange wire of the LR Mod, or when there is power going in the Orange/Red-Purp wire it will not turn over as I have highlighted here in blue...

    Also I wanted to check on some part number specs, the CDI I have is a 4010404 but I have seen that is also compatible just like the 4010558...
    I knwo this is a lot, but I think this will round out all of my questions!!
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  10. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by wheeman2222 View Post
    ... Also when i have everything wire as it should according to the wiring diagram, when I hold down the bilge pump the motor will not turn over ...
    There is a problem with the grounding of the electrical box.

    Disconnect battery negative.
    Measure ohms from engine case to electrical box black terminals and black wires.
    All black wires and ground points inside the electrical box should be zero ohms to the engine.
    Make sure your meter is accurate, you need less than 1.0 ohms from engine to all electrical box ground points.

    Quote Originally Posted by K447
    ... Put your multi-meter probe directly to Red/Purple wire that feeds into the CDI module. Put the Black meter probe on the Black wire for the CDI.
    Did you do this?
    Last edited by K447; 03-20-2014 at 12:36 PM.

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