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  1. #1

    VX110 engine into SX230HO - NEED BEARING HELP

    Just joined the forum. Thanks in advance for any help you are able to give.

    I am in the process of using the block and crank from a 2006 VX110 and putting it into my 2006 Yamaha SX230 HO. I found the numbers on the block and the crank. I also have the numbers from the rods. My issue is polishing the crank. I would like to go with the next size bigger bearing. But with Yamaha's $5&# color codes I have no idea what color is bigger/smaller. Can anyone help me figure out the actual sizes, short of ordering one of each.

    The rod bearings have the same part number for both the boat and the jetski. The Jetski has a different color code for the main bearings than the boat does. So I may have to use the jet ski main bearings vs. the boat ones. Unless I learn the specific sizes.

    Thanks again!


  2. #2
    Skoog's Avatar
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    Hi,

    Do you plan on using a 20 ton shop press to disassemble the pressed together crankshaft? I doubt if machining the crank rod pins up to 1 mm would be a problem. First you'll need to disassemble the crank and mic the needle bearings. I would suggest consulting with a bearing supply to insure a slightly larger needle bearings are available. In any case you're going to have do some research on this project. Timken bearings website shas a quite extensive needle bearing documentation.

    Personally I'm going to replace caged needle bearings with a 'full complement' which allows a higher bearing count and thus higher load carrying abilities vs. the caged type. Additionally it opens the ability to use metric or SAE inch bearings and gives greater opportunities to select the best bearing for the job besides, reducing machining. I realize it's tedious to hand pack bearings vs. sliding a caged bearing on yet, I feel my time is well spent by increased axial load carrying abilities with more bearing surfaces carrying the load.

    Considering the cost of a replacement crank rod pin you may fine it's more cost effective to just replace them, unless a larger size needle bearing is considered.

    You may wish to explorer the web about applying MSO2 moly and ceramic coatings to the crank and rod bearing surfaces, these coatings are now available for the DIY. OEM's are applying these coatings to pistons, ceramic on crowns and moly on sides. I see no reasons crank and rod pin surfaces couldn't be hardened with a ceramic coating. The needle bearings could be coated with moly to reduce friction. Talking to F1 crews at Austin TX COTA race track when I mentioned using these coatings the responses were vague like it's a secret not to be discussed outside the crew. The F1 engines tachs display up to 20K RPM and the engine sounds are absolutely unbearable without ear protection, which is not the case with sport bikes at the same distances. Ed

    Too bad 2 strokes are fading away there were some real racing pro's who could make them fly. With emissions the carburetors and EFI 2 strokes just can't pass, now GDI is a totally different story. Best luck achieving your engine upgrades Ed

  3. #3
    Moderator beerdart's Avatar
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    The VX is 4-stroke not 2.
    Quote Originally Posted by Skoog View Post
    Hi,

    Do you plan on using a 20 ton shop press to disassemble the pressed together crankshaft? I doubt if machining the crank rod pins up to 1 mm would be a problem. First you'll need to disassemble the crank and mic the needle bearings. I would suggest consulting with a bearing supply to insure a slightly larger needle bearings are available. In any case you're going to have do some research on this project. Timken bearings website shas a quite extensive needle bearing documentation.

    Personally I'm going to replace caged needle bearings with a 'full complement' which allows a higher bearing count and thus higher load carrying abilities vs. the caged type. Additionally it opens the ability to use metric or SAE inch bearings and gives greater opportunities to select the best bearing for the job besides, reducing machining. I realize it's tedious to hand pack bearings vs. sliding a caged bearing on yet, I feel my time is well spent by increased axial load carrying abilities with more bearing surfaces carrying the load.

    Considering the cost of a replacement crank rod pin you may fine it's more cost effective to just replace them, unless a larger size needle bearing is considered.

    You may wish to explorer the web about applying MSO2 moly and ceramic coatings to the crank and rod bearing surfaces, these coatings are now available for the DIY. OEM's are applying these coatings to pistons, ceramic on crowns and moly on sides. I see no reasons crank and rod pin surfaces couldn't be hardened with a ceramic coating. The needle bearings could be coated with moly to reduce friction. Talking to F1 crews at Austin TX COTA race track when I mentioned using these coatings the responses were vague like it's a secret not to be discussed outside the crew. The F1 engines tachs display up to 20K RPM and the engine sounds are absolutely unbearable without ear protection, which is not the case with sport bikes at the same distances. Ed

    Too bad 2 strokes are fading away there were some real racing pro's who could make them fly. With emissions the carburetors and EFI 2 strokes just can't pass, now GDI is a totally different story. Best luck achieving your engine upgrades Ed

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  5. #4
    Correct me if I am wrong here, but I am pretty sure the crank is a one piece crank. I am not upgrading an engine. This is simply rebuilding one that threw a rod. I have a different block and a different crank. But, they are one in the same. Yamaha uses bearing color codes. It is also my understanding that they do not make oversize bearings for the engine. But, they have the color codes for 5 different sizes to allow for manufacturing tolerances. By polishing the crank, I understand that not much would be taken off. If you don't think that taking 1mm off is a lot, I would beg to differ. While I appreciate your response and efforts to help, I don't think you understand the engine I am working on. It has nothing to do with an F1 engine. Is is an MR-1. I am not making it "faster" or more "powerful." The boat uses two MR-1's. Having one engine that can out produce the other would be foolish.

  6. #5
    Kaybat's Avatar
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    that's a non ho motor?
    2 renditions of the mr1's in those(ho & non-ho)....diff output.
    try yamaha jetboaters forum.....lots of mr1 info
    Last edited by Kaybat; 03-20-2014 at 09:37 AM.

  7. #6
    DP.'s Avatar
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    Hi, the shop manual should show what color bearing is bigger or smaller.
    hope this helps

  8. #7
    The shop manuals do not say which ones are bigger. They are simply tagged with a color. No other info is provided. I have asked at the jet boaters forum. But they are telling me that what I am doing can't be done. Which is hog wash!

    This will be an HO engine. Rods are from the HO. Pistons are from the HO. (i had to get a rod and piston as both were damage in the boat when i bought it) Head is from the HO. Cranks are the same between the two. Block is the same, minus a bend in a cooling pipe.

  9. #8
    MR-1 X 2's Avatar
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    You are correct about the difference between VX/HO crankcase water inlet. The only other thing I have noticed is that you will have to tap some holes for the lower exhaust mount on the mag side that the VX does not use. I have some technical docs. that were published in 05 that explained the basic internal/external engine difference between VX/HO (most of it you have already figured out through your research).

    The main bearing color needed for each journal is determined by the codes stamped in the block and the crank. If you purchased a used block with the original crank it should already have the correct bearings whose color codes should match the stamped codes( per the table in the manual). If you are using your original crank you will have to start with the codes and use plastigage to match tolerance specified in manual.

    In the past I have purchased a replacement bearing kit that included one set of each... std, 1st & 2nd under, 1st & 2nd over.

    Everything that applies to crank/block also applies to crank/rods including availability of a rod bearing kit with the 5 different sizes.

    PM me if you need any more info.

    Scott

  10. #9
    TuningForkMarine's Avatar
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    this guy....

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