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  1. #1

    Heated Storage without winterizaton question. Did i do any damage?

    Ok so its been brought to my attention by someone that leaving my ski in heated storage without winterizing was not good and could of caused some rust and damage.

    My dad who has been boating his whole life told me it would be fine since it would be in heated storage. He told me doing this was better for the ski in the long run than going through the winterization process and leaving it in cold storage.

    I brought this up with him today and he said its completely fine and after we get it out of storage, we would put some fuel stabilizer in and fog the engine and it'll run no problem

    There was also no water in it and a little fuel left when left in storage.

    Am i overreacting to this or do I have a problem?

    Ski is a 2011 Yamaha vxr. thanks
    Last edited by Bryan; 03-27-2014 at 01:45 PM.


  2. #2
    bryantjopplin's Avatar
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    I have never fogged but crank it once or twice a month every month

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  4. #3
    I have stored our skis for 15 years this way and never have had a problem. I store them in the basement of a work shop, it will stay 65 degrees throughout the winter. I have never added fuel stabilizer. I have had a 2003 gp1300r since new and have never had a problem. My 2011 VXR is stored right next to the gpr and was brought out last week to the lake and ran just as good as last year. I always put them up empty and add fresh gas in the spring. This has always worked for me, you should be just fine.

  5. #4
    04gtxsc's Avatar
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    Should not be a problem i do not winterize my skis and =never have. They stay in a unheated garage with a 65 watt light bulb in the engine compartment. they get started for 30 seconds or so every 10 days has worked this way for 10 years. I have over 300 hours on the gtx with no problems runs better now than when new.

  6. #5
    R-Doo's Avatar
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    The problem is with the exhaust valves. Your waterbox will always have some water in it and it's open to the exhaust side of the motor.
    This will cause that side to have a high humidity level. This can cause the values and stems to rust. It might only be a light coating, but it's still not as smooth as an engine that has been run recently. This rust can cause the value to stick or even score the guide.

    Best to fog before letting the engine sit any length of time. Rather be safe than sorry down the line.

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  8. #6
    Best to fog before letting the engine sit any length of time in future. Rather be safe than sorry down the line.

  9. #7
    04gtxsc's Avatar
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    Just curious what would you consider "length of time"?

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    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 04gtxsc View Post
    ... They stay in an unheated garage with a 65 watt light bulb in the engine compartment...
    65 watt light bulb?

    If your electricity costs (all in) are 15 cents per kilowatt hour, then that single light bulb costs:
    65 watts x 24 hours x 30 days = 48,600 watt hours, or 48.6KwH per month
    Which costs about $7 per month
    Six months of that is $42

    If my math is right, that seems like a slightly expensive way to avoid winterizing an engine...

    On the flip side, keeping the engine block & head warm relative to the residual water in the exhaust system means moisture should NOT condense on the internal engine metal. The heat drives the moisture away from the engine.

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    04gtxsc's Avatar
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    Ok Keith so is it a terrible idea, An ok idea, or a bad idea?
    The temperature in the engine compartment stays about 45 degrees or more all winter. I have a temperature gauge outside the ski that I can look at when I go by it. The light is in the back end of the engine compartment and the sensor is up by the battery in the front.

  12. #10
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 04gtxsc View Post
    Ok Keith so is it a terrible idea, An ok idea, or a bad idea?

    The temperature in the engine compartment stays about 45 degrees or more all winter. I have a temperature gauge outside the ski that I can look at when I go by it. The light is in the back end of the engine compartment and the sensor is up by the battery in the front.
    I could not say with any certainty :

    If you are keeping the waterbox warmer than the actual engine block/head, then you are driving moisture from inside the waterbox towards the engine. If the engine itself is warmer than the water inside the waterbox, then the engine should stay dry.

    It is all about the relative temperatures of the different areas. Moisture tends to travel from warm areas to cold areas, where it may condense. Warm metal and cold water is fine, warm water and cold metal, not so good.

    I don't know what sensor you are referring to. Is that the sensor for the temperature gauge you are monitoring?

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