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  1. #1

    my first "I Have an Issue" post

    just bought my first ski, post could be read below if you wanted. It ran great when i bought it. Sat for 3 weeks cause it was cold and i was out of town as well. Went out today to run it for while on the hose"properly", well that was my plan....It started fine, ran for 5 minutes then rpms drop and it dies. It has trouble starting, it cranks but nothing "typical issue", well i thought. Then every here and there it starts, runs for about 30 seconds than rpms drop and it dies. HERES what I know. 1) i bought it with a primer kit installed, it has that plunger instead of the knob where the choke would be. 2) it turns over and runs for the 30sec. when i prime it alot. no prime no start. 3) battery has 11.7 volts before and after i tryed to run it, display turns off by itself here and there."recomended is 12.6volts". It does start so it shouldnt be the batt? 4) fuel filter looks clean i believe? dont know what to look for.......kind of fustrated cause it ran great at dudes house and when i brought it home that day, 3 weeks later now there is issues. I WOULD LOVE TO do all the work myself and planned to but this is a curveball right off the rip. Part of me wants to take it to the shop and start with a clean slate, but i would really rather LEARN from greenhulk....THANKS GUYS

  2. #2
    oh PS, IT IS AN ULTRA 150!! sorry to forget that! the plugs looked a lil on the oily side, but i cleaned them and plan to order new ones. ski has 76 hours with original everything. I want to learn to troubleshoot. I would ASSUME it is a fuel issue? either not enough or dirty fuel. I have no way to rid the fuel it has, was hopeing to burn most of it then fill it. AND i am already thinking if it is a fuel issue what would cause it? carbs? leak in orginal lines i can not detect? thanks guys...

  3. #3
    I like pipes. I love boost Mr. GP1800's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Milwaukee WI
    Have you ever run the machine in the water under load? Running on the hose really will tell you nothing as to if its running properly or not.

  4. #4
    no i have not had the chance, probably dumb on my part. i guess its fustrating cause i don't understand what happened from then until now. it only sat, never touched for 3 weeks. the fuel filter should be atleast half filled when cranking correct?

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    ... battery has 11.7 volts before and after i tryed to run it, display turns off by itself here and there.
    "recomended is 12.6volts".
    It does start so it shouldnt be the batt?
    May or may not have anything to do with the engine shutting off, but something is not making sense regarding the battery voltages.

    A completely discharged battery will still measure 11.x volts (and would probably be too weak to start the engine).

    A fully charged traditional lead-acid battery will measure about 12.5 volts after resting.

    Exact voltages vary with temperature, battery age and battery type. A heathy battery will always measure something more than 12.0 volts when just sitting.

    When engine is running battery voltage should jump up to around 14.5 volts and hold steady as RPM changes.

    Voltage measurements should be done using a decent digital multi-meter. Do not rely on a built in voltage reading from the watercraft dash display until you have verified the display's accuracy (using your multimeter).

    Dash display should not turn itself off while the engine is running.

  6. #6
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    It's normal for the display to turn off about 10 seconds after the engine shuts off. It should be on whenever the engine is running.

    As mentioned, running on the trailer means absolutely nothing except that it will start. Most likely some plugging of the fuel filter/carbs. You can siphon the fuel out and burn it in your car/lawnmower, etc.--but make sure you dilute it!

    Do the carbs have the original chokes? Or, have they been removed and been replaced by primer nozzles? You MUST leave the chokes in these carbs or they won't work right! (Actually, they can be modified to work, but this is a common mistake). Tell us where the primer discharge nozzle(s) are.

  7. #7
    steve you're the man, checked and followed the lines off the plunger. one goes and gets split into a tee, off the tee it looks like it goes into the carbs, under the box so i can't really see where they hook in at without removing the flame arrestor box, and i do not know how to tell if the original chokes are on. could you explain? BUT the other line goes into a main "thicker" fuel line, says "res" on it. NOTICED that that line right off the plunger is pissing fuel heavily! what does that line do? i would assume the one going towards the carbs is a suppy off the plunger, what does the other one do? it is pissing fuel cause of a leak, i think i might have found the issue????

  8. #8
    did some more research on this site. came across something along the lines of " most people install the tee into the return line because installing the tee into the reserve line and having an air leak in the primer system could cause a lean condition"...what are you thinking guys??? it went from starting and running for 30 seconds to not starting at all now.

  9. #9
    steve45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2008
    No, don't install the Tee in the Return line because it goes to the top of the tank, which doesn't have fuel. The Reserve line is the lowest pickup in the tank and will always have fuel.

    The plungers do go bad and can either leak so they don't draw fuel from the tank, or they constantly dribble fuel into the carbs. In fact, I had to replace a primer on my nephew's 'Ski last weekend because it leaked fuel.

    You'll have to remove the flame arrestor to inspect the carbs. Remove the two bolts that attach the bracket that connects the flame arrestor and the exhaust pipe. There are two clamps that hold the rubber flame arrestor tubes to the front and rear carbs (only). You might loosen them, but you can probably just wiggle the flame arrestor from side-to-side and pull it out. Be careful not to damage the wire that's attached to the flame arrestor. I put a snap clamp on mine so I can release the wire from flame arrestor.

    When you get it off, look for choke plates in the very top of the carb throats. When you move the choke knob, the blades should move.

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