Thread: Pro 785 fly wheel removal
04-06-2014, 02:31 PM #1
Pro 785 fly wheel removal
This flywheel is a pain in the butt to get off. Have a good puller, decent impact, used pb blaster. now going to try and add some heat, which I don't have at the moment. Any other tricks? Thanks
04-06-2014, 02:45 PM #2
- Join Date
- Aug 2006
- Homer Glen Il.
with tension on it give it a good hit with a hammer ,the end of the puller bolt that is or get alittle propane torch and warm up the center f the flywheel a touch same way with tension on it
04-06-2014, 04:20 PM #3
Thanks. Yeah did all of that... This thing is a nightmare. Going to have an oat soda to calm me down a bit. Come back at it again in a bit. Lol atleast I haven't broke any of those tiny bolts that you screw into the flywheel that attached to the puller like I've read in a few other posts. This project has been going smooth... This is my only hold up so far.
04-06-2014, 10:01 PM #4
- Join Date
- Jun 2008
- windsor ont
put tension on it like lugs said point a good heat gun at the centre and have another beer.repeat till it pops
04-06-2014, 11:07 PM #5
- Join Date
- Oct 2006
- Cleveland OH
Why Polaris decided to use the smaller bolts on the Pro 785 flywheel is beyond me? They seem to be more difficult to get off VS. the other fujis with the larger diameter bolts.
I'm not a fan of striking the puller bolt with a hammer method any more. When you're frustrated, you tend to hit things a little harder than you would like.
I've had 2 really stubborn flywheels so far, and what has worked for me both times is to:
1. Have the puller under a lot of tension. Make sure it's pulling straight back, not to one side. (adjust your mounting bolts if need be)
2. Get a small bucket of ice and start holding ice cubes on the crank snout to get keep the crank cool.
3. Apply heat to the flywheel around the snout. (I used a torch with mapp gas)
4. Keep icing the snout as you heat up the flywheel. You're going to use quite a few cubes as they melt quickly.
TIP: Keep water off the flywheel. You want the flywheel to get hot and expand while keeping the crank cold/cool.
TIP: Keep a rag or towel near by as you're going to have a water puddle from the ice cubes melting. But don't put it where it may catch fire from the torch.
CAUTION: Remember the magneto and front crank seal is behind the flywheel when using heat. You can damage one or both of them if you get a bit crazy with the torch.
Hopefully this works for you too
04-06-2014, 11:48 PM #6
- Join Date
- Jul 2007
- near Toronto, Canada
Tip: Leave the flywheel nut in place, just a few turns loose.
When the flywheel does let go under heavy tension from the puller you do not want it to launch into you or any part of the watercraft! There is potential for significant mechanical violence with no warning.
04-07-2014, 09:43 PM #7
Thanks for all the tips. I had to walk away from it Sunday. Tried the heat thing with a little propane torch. I will try and put ice on the snout of the crank. New idea I haven't tried.
The motor is out of the hull, but I will take that into consideration k447. I think also another thing I need is an impact with a little more balls. Going to borrow a buddy's? Also is an impact too violent on the crank. It's all going to get sent out and looked over sometime.
04-08-2014, 07:02 AM #8
Impact should be ok, don't go too crazy you can mushroom the end of the crank. also be sure the pilot doesn't "walk" to the side & mess up the threads. leaving the flywheel nut on will also help prevent this if you keep it flush with the end of the crank.
04-08-2014, 03:24 PM #9
I've always used a Watcon.com puller and it was not a big deal to do inside the boat. Make sure you are using a good puller..
04-09-2014, 09:10 AM #10
- Join Date
- Oct 2011
You guys are all correct..
The puller must be high quality, and has to pull EXACTLY straight. a steering wheel puller isn't going to do the job.
you need a big ** impact wrench & a good air source.
Leave the nut screwed onto the end of the flywheel to keep from mushrooming the threads.
Put as much tension as possible on the puller; heat the flywheel around the hub & puller bolt area.
Wack the puller bolt HARD with a large hammer, not a hammer you would use to fix the roof..
I have never damaged a crankshaft with this method; The puller I offer fits flush against the face of the crankshaft. and I think this helps immensely.
You might have to have a few 6mm puller bolts as they will stretch.
If you strip the threads in the flywheel; you can retap them to 8x1.25mm , but it wont be easy.
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