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  1. #1
    IDoSeaDoo's Avatar
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    Challenger 4tec Swap

    Hey everyone, I just started my 1997 Seadoo Challenger upgrade. I absolutely LOVE this boat and have owned it for about a year and a half. Since then, I have gone through 3 or 4 rebuilds. Yea, I put a LOT of hours on it, but the 787 was just not cutting it. Also, it was really loud, inefficient and plain unreliable. So I figured I'd upgrade it with an S/C 4tec.

    Last Dec. I picked up an 03 GTX with the 185 motor. I got a few metrics on fuel consumption, top speed numbers, etc and proceeded to cut up the hull. Basically, I'm going to cut the bottom out of the boat and glass in the analogous piece of the GTX, as the thru-hull fitting and motor mount locations currently don't line up. I'm basically going to copy the Lil Wake project, just larger scale.

    I'm going to have to ditch the stock ride plate and get a 30-plate heat exchanger, as mentioned in this post. Currently trying to figure out how to split the water flow between the exhaust system and HX. I got a lot of GREAT info from this thread: http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=105552 and a few others. Thank you dduck1628 for doing the leg-work and posting. Your information was invaluable.

    Anyway, I have purchased the following parts to rebuild the engine with:
    SBT remanned prop and WSM wear ring
    SBT gasket kit
    SBT valve stem seals
    Supertech Valves
    IWIS timing chain
    OEM S/C rebuild kit and SBT tools
    Kluber Grease
    Updated Flywheel bolts
    New driveshaft and carbon seal(old one rusted out)
    All new stretch bolts
    New carrier bearing (old one got damaged b/c couldn't remove driveshaft properly)
    Moeller Zinc Chromate primer and paint to make things pretty

    I'm going to use West System epoxy resin to do the glass work, I wonder how far a gallon will go...

    Currently waiting on the heat exchanger to finish cooling system testing. Want to do this before I rebuild the engine, in case I screw something up. Can anyone tell me how long piston rings and crank bearings last on these S/C 4tecs? Mine has 200 hours on it. I don't want to replace them if I don't need to. I don't suspect that they're in bad shape. The ski ran great, and the S/C had barely any give when I tried to turn the compressor wheel.


  2. #2
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    Read this first....You will be inspired...

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=77896

  3. #3
    Happily Self-Employed WFO's Avatar
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  4. #4
    IDoSeaDoo's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by WFO View Post
    LOL now that's going to be a crazy boat. Not sure how that's going to handle... especially it being a 215 and all. Can't wait to see the finished product!

    Hey, anyone know why they got rid of the bailers on the boats? Mine didn't come with them. I'm thinking of keeping them, as I love how dry they keep the hull. Is there any performance gains to be had by deleting them?

  5. #5
    IDoSeaDoo's Avatar
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    Just finished reading Trond's thread... WOW! I want to shake that guy's hand almost as bad as I want to ride in his boat. I have a new personal hero.

    Anyway, my new 30-plate heat exchanger came in. The spark plug adapter should be here today too, so I can finally get compression readings to see if I need to replace rings. I've been held up this month by a ton of yard work I need to do before it gets too hot. I'll be starting the engine rebuild in the evenings when it's too dark to work outside. Can't wait to tear into it!

    Anyone have any hints on how to remove the old chipping/peeling paint? I'm scared to sand blast it and get grit into the works. Also debating on whether I paint before or after the build....

  6. #6
    IDoSeaDoo's Avatar
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    Tested the new 3"x8" 30-plate heat exchanger on the hose. It sustained 6000RPM for over a minute, head temperature never reaching much past 200F. I didn't want to keep running it with no load, so I didn't do it longer. The return pipe on the exchanger was only warm to the touch, so I think the cooling system is good to go. I have quite a bit of spring-time yard work to complete this week before I can get back to the fun stuff. Also, just ordered 15ft of 1.5oz chopped fiberglass mat.

  7. #7
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    Check this...


  8. #8
    IDoSeaDoo's Avatar
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    Exactly! I couldn't test the numbers like he did with those sweet thermocouples, but the head temps were steady. It's all relative. My thermostat is stock, I like running hotter as you get more power/efficiency. What is "heat fade"? I've heard of people having to contend with that... Would this heat exchanger setup alleviate that as I have more cooling than I need?

    Also, got my compression adapter. 150 on each hole, tested cold with all plugs in and throttle wide open. Couldn't believe how even the numbers were across the board Plan on leaving the piston rings and bottom bearings alone. I'll mic any I have to take off for chain change, but I expect them all to be perfect. Aside from the extreme salt corrosion, this engine seems to have been well cared for. There are two different shop stickers on the back of it. If it only has 200h on the clock and has seen two pro shops, that is a good sign.

    Any hints on how to paint this motor? How do I get this old chipped/peeling paint off?

  9. #9
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    Thats my video from awhile ago...it was running on a cold hose, so the temp was down...and the thermostat was a 158 degree unit, while the stocker is 188 degree.....You'll be fine for cooling.

    Heat fade is when the air intake, which is typically mounted inside the engine compartment, sucks in the heated air (done by the hot motor) from within the compartment. This is resolved by routing the air intake to a location closer to a large opening, and sometimes putting a fan to push/pull fresh air....

    150 is good....As long as the valves look good...

    To paint, seal off any openings, and scrub the flakey stuff off...I sometimes paint with Rustoleum's Oven Paint...

  10. #10
    IDoSeaDoo's Avatar
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    Thanks for making that video! I guess I'll have to get crafty with the intake on the boat as I want to keep the silencer on it. It makes a huge difference. That intake is NOISY! I'm debating on whether to mount that E-temp sensor to monitor underhood temps or outside temp. Would be sweet to get two and just have a switch
    As for the valves, they're brand new Supertech's. No worries there. I'll probably sell the old ones on eBay or something. I've seen others do this. Who knows, maybe someone will buy them.
    For paint, I purchased Moeller marine engine paint along with their recommended primer. I hope it sticks better than the stock stuff...

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