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Thread: XLT 1200 Redux

  1. #1
    RaiderMagic's Avatar
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    XLT 1200 Redux

    Here's my little build thread of a recently acquired 03 XLT.
    So I picked up my 2nd PWC last fall. This 03 XLT1200 was to replace my 96 Waveraider 1100. This would be my 2nd Ski in 4 months.
    1st off, I really liked my old Waveraider. It was fun & really simple. It has adjustable trim & a digital cluster, etc. Not bad for a super old ski. It also had some leaks I was chasing all season(got them sorted), didn't turn very well at all & I couldn't bring my wife out either. I needed a bigger ski. The search was on & staying in 2 stroke budget & simplicity I was aiming for a nice XLT.
    I looked for about a month or so & negotiated a deal on a 26hr original owner 2003 XLT 1200 from Tom's River NJ.
    It was super clean & started right up, was winterized, etc. No water test drive was available. Well, upon my very first water ride I discovered that the Oil Level Sensor was broken & it beeped like crazy. As soon as I got out of the no-wake zone & into the bay.. it stumbled, choked & stalled, etc. Barely making it back to shore I passed by Carl over @ Island Racing & pretty much dropped of my ski 10 mins later as he's only a few mins away from the ramp.
    You know it, the carbs were shot. The gas was likely not treated, etc. With only 26hrs on a 10yr old ski, who know how old that gas was. the seller said everything was on the up n up. Of cores they did. :P
    Carl took mercy & rebuilt the carbs, added ProK Flame Arresors, deleted the Fuel Accelerator, clamped the Oil injection lines & had me back on the water just in time to enjoy the ski before the season came to a close. I found a nice working Oil level sensor & ordered that while the ski was in the shop. No more beeping! I ended up riding til Nov 10th.

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    she gets cleaned up at home.
    Last edited by RaiderMagic; 04-21-2014 at 10:11 AM.


  2. #2
    RaiderMagic's Avatar
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    ^ Maintenance Done:

    I've got some catching up to do.
    So I rode the XLT last fall & put about 10-12hrs on her & did my research. I really like this ski. It jumps well, it handles the chop amazingly & the dream-Ometer says 61mph in the bay. Well, the Raider ripped it lightweight hull from the hole much quicker with 45 less hp but his was just better overall. Faster up top by a few, more stable, more storage & of corse, I can now bring my wife with me. *that hasn't happened yet on this ski. She's not a fan of Nov. Ocean waters. I took her home, cleaned her up nicely, winterized her & added a 600gph bilge pump. After getting tossed a few times by being a bit too aggressive with the 8ft waves I added a rear Aqua Step. (the flip ladder step like newer skis). After the 1st incident, I realized this is much taller to pull yourself out of the water, so I added a home made rope step to rear for a temporary option. I then scored a deal on the Aquastep & installed that. What a PITA.
    Just getting to the bolts on the inside of the lowest part of the rear hull was next to impossible. My arms/shoulders just wouldn't fit through the hull opening to reach. I had shoulder bruises for a week trying to squeeze in there. Luckily my wife came home in time for me to shove her in there to spread the 5200 & hold the socket while I torqued down the ladder bracket bolts from the outside. Head first, Waist deep in the ski with her feet up in the air, sure was a pretty funny sight to see. Unfortunately I don't have a pic. I told you she was a trooper though :P



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    oh, and I put in a trim cable as the other one was a tad sticky. Everything lubed & gone over at this point.

    AquaStep on, Bilge in, New Cable, Oil Level sender, Winterized & ready for spring.
    Last edited by RaiderMagic; 04-21-2014 at 05:35 PM.

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    RaiderMagic's Avatar
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    Nothing I own is stock..nothing.

    I realized the potential of this ski with a few more mods. Its very similar to the GPR models, just as a 3 seater version.
    Over the winter I ordered a Solas 13/19 impeller, R&D Pump Seal Kit & R&D Intake Grate.

    warmer weather was coming eventually & I need to get these on before riding season starts.
    Off season also brought a 5:4 wetsuit, gloves & hoody. After all, I want to get this baby in the water early.


    So after reading a few threads & figuring I'm pretty handy with a wrench, I'll put these in..no problem.
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    Last edited by RaiderMagic; 04-21-2014 at 05:37 PM.

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    Not as easy as planned. I sheared 2 of the pump shoe bolts right off & 1 of the rear Ride Plate fittings was spinning. I was able to put a wrench on that & remove the bolt.
    I heated them all & took my time. Unfortunately 2 of the pump shoe bolts still broke off. Not leaving much of a stud to grab, my stud removal tool was use less, as was my bolt extractor sockets.
    Knowing I'd have to replace the threaded fitting, it didn't make mush sense to spend the time drilling the old bolt out.

    Researched a few more options here.
    Last edited by RaiderMagic; 04-21-2014 at 05:40 PM.

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    you XLT is not far from my SUV genetics wise....
    The only complaint I have had about mine is a slight cavitation issue. I bought some epoxy resin and have filled just about every cavity I can find in the pump shoe...
    I installed the same intake grate you have.

    I am also thinking I may need a new pump liner....butI want to see if the cavitation is gone with sealing the pump like I did. But I want to run it at least once before I tear into the impellor housing...and swap the liner.

    I am in Kansas and using mine on a small...very small city lake, so not much in the way of wave jumping. I plan on using mine as much as I can and if the motor ever does die I might see about doing a 4 stroke swap....

  6. #6
    RaiderMagic's Avatar
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    Yeah, I agree on the cavitation. I noticed it right away compared to my raider. The Raider was faster out of the hole(it being lighter helped too). Thats why I really wanted to do the prop & stuffer kit for this season.

    The R&D kit is installed & the 5200 has dried. I just need to get the replacement fittings to button everything back together.
    I'm like 10mins from Island Racing, I was hoping Carl has in stock just for convenience sake. Otherwise I'll order them online. The local dealership says it could be weeks to order & although really nice/helpful guys there, they just don't deal with anything on older skis.

    Island offers a thick alum bracket to reinforce/replace the through hull fittings. I was going to do that or simply make my own, its just thick flat stock.
    Going that route though, I'd have to remove the 2 other globs of glue inside & then the fittings.
    It's tough to work in there. It's really difficult to remove the glue. I basically torched them, then let the blobs burn for like 1 min & then put them out & chipped away & then repeat process. The smoke is stinky/toxic & doesn't really escape the rear hull so It's not something I look forward to doing.
    Also, if you go the route of the reinforcement bars, the original fitting holes are now bigger than the bolts. So using new, thicker hardware is no biggie...but you have to drill out the plate fittings larger now too. If doing this(I don't have a drill-press), you really want to make sure the holes are perfect so the plate re-aligns perfectly straight when mounted.
    Of corse going the reinforcement bar method means no more OEM glue piles, so that just means I should do the Fiberglass Hull Reinforcement while in there.
    I'm definitely thinking of doing that & making everything bulletproof but the simple project has stemmed from replacing a few parts to broken hardware & now maybe more work/fiberglass work ($100 in materials), plus the reinforcement bars ($60 from Island). *Home Depot didn't have thick enough stock.

    The liner on my XLT is SS, so it lasts longer but puts the wear on your prop instead. I know a plastic type replacement is also available. My ski has less than 40hrs on it so it's in excellent condition.



    I only ride the ocean & wave jumping is quite addictive, lol. With better hole shot from this prop & an early season start.. I'm thinking I will be doing a lot of it. The reinforcement is a good idea. the few times I went last season we were hitting consistent 8ft waves/swells.
    Sometimes coming off the top of a 8ft swell seems like a 15ft drop on the other side. :P

    Your SUV is like a cult ski now, lol. So very unique. I almost bought one for its great stability, etc. But riding solo 99% of the time & wanting to jump waves I chose the XLT instead.

    Oh, the pump stuffer kit or 'DIY epoxy' fill is supposed to be night & day.

    How do you like the Aquavein Grate so far? did you loose any top speed? did you do a ride plate?
    Last edited by RaiderMagic; 04-22-2014 at 01:45 PM.

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    Here's the rear ride plate fitting in the factory glue/glob. This one spun on bolt removal. I was able to remove the bolt by putting some vise grips on the this. I'm going to 5200 around it just to be sure its watertight when I reinstall the plate.

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    the intake grate & pump shoe waiting to dry. I got a super deal on the 5200 slow cure so I used this. *I did clean up the parts w/ acetone right after these pics.

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    ...and since the trailer I bought last yr. had cracked/dry-rotted tires, I ordered those & installed this last monday.

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    Bearings are tight, greased, bearing buddies in there & dust caps siliconed on. Trailer is good to go. I love this lightweight alum trailer. Triton LXT. its like 125# & will never rust.


    Here's the culprit. 1 of the 2 broken bolts that secure the pump shoe. 11 yr old red factory loctite, galvanic corrosion & saltwater...that'll make it not come loose. arrgh!

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    just fore reference, these ^ mount from the inside of the hull & the bolt secures then from underneath. the hex sits in a small 'female-hex' recess inside the hull. , then the green/brown glob holds it in place. When the bolt is stuck, it can spin the fittings inside (like my rear ride plate did, or you will simply shear the bolt head off like shown here.

    Heating the fitting/bolt can help, but not always.
    replacements are available for like $11ea.
    the later GPR plate/bracket version can also be used. they don't sit in the recess of the inside-hex but offer more of a flat surface.
    *the GPR version is shorter than the spacing of the SUV/XLT holes, so you have to cut the 'bracket' in half. These are still only like $13 per side, so actually cheaper than 2 individual bolt fittings. Since they don't sit in the hollow hex recess, that should be filled with epoxy or just a lot of 5200 under the new bracket.
    Last edited by RaiderMagic; 04-22-2014 at 01:52 PM.

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    RaiderMagic's Avatar
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    Here is a borrowed pic from another thread but shows the updated brackets(our would be cut in the middle) & also shows someones fiberglass reinforcement on the tunnel.

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    Remove globs, remove fittings, fiberglass the tunnel & base area, then drill pilot holes from underneath to secure new brackets. Of corse adding 5200. Seems like this stuff is the magic fix-all, use-everywhere glue.

    Still debating on my method of fix. Original inserts, cut GPR brackets, with or w/o fiberglass reinforcement work.

  9. #9
    This ski doesnt need a fiberglass reinforcment. Its not a GPR. Thats a GPR picture, xlt's do not have styrofoam in rear compartment. Mine as seen mid 70's for almost a decade and no tunnel issues.

  10. #10
    Also you dont use the rear lower main plug in the pump shoe, and dont seal the ride plate! We see so many people doing this" sealing rideplate", its very dangerous to do so. Since the shoe is done its ok wont kill you but we found it works better with that rear void left open.

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