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  1. #1
    SCHNORR12's Avatar
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    Battery just... died?

    Here is the scenario:

    Went to the river to ride the ski for the first time this season. Put it in the water and rode for about an hour. The ski rode great, no issues. About 3 hours later my buddy called when he got out of work and wanted to ride the river quick. I went back to the river, put the ski in the water, and it started right up. I rode for about 10-15 minutes and came back to let another one of my buddy's ride since he didn't have his ski with him. He got on and it wouldn't start. The dash would wake up and read "normal key" but when you pushed the start button the dash would turn off.

    I went home and disconnected the battery to run it on a charger. It's showing about 3 volts on the charger. The battery was stored inside all winter and seemed to be fine as the ski started when I put it in. I bought the battery brand new last season.

    Shouldn't the ski have charged the battery while I was riding? I'm worried it might turn out to be something worse than a battery issue. Has anyone had a problem similar to this? Obviously I can hook the battery to a tester when it's charged (hopefully tomorrow) but until then I'm stuck.


  2. #2
    Nothin' better than Doo'in it! BigDaddyRXP's Avatar
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    Sounds like your battery crapped a dead cell or two. If the magneto-rectifier wasn't charging.... you would have gotten a 12 volt low warning, and the engine won't run very long at all if it's not charging.

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    What kind of battery is it? Traditional liquid lead-acid type?

    I suspect a battery that reads only 3 volts is internally broken/damaged, not just discharged.

  4. #4
    SCHNORR12's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyRXP View Post
    Sounds like your battery crapped a dead cell or two. If the magneto-rectifier wasn't charging.... you would have gotten a 12 volt low warning, and the engine won't run very long at all if it's not charging.
    I never received any sort of warning. The dash did glitch a couple of times though after it wouldn't start. My buddy said one of the times he tried to start it the speedometer was all the way up near 70. Another time in the parking lot the dash was stuck in the "awake mode" and the iBR light was illuminated as well as the GPS light.

    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    What kind of battery is it? Traditional liquid lead-acid type?

    I suspect a battery that reads only 3 volts is internally broken/damaged, not just discharged.
    It's a Yuasa YB30CL-B.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by SCHNORR12 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyRXP View Post
    Sounds like your battery crapped a dead cell or two. If the magneto-rectifier wasn't charging.... you would have gotten a 12 volt low warning, and the engine won't run very long at all if it's not charging.
    I never received any sort of warning. The dash did glitch a couple of times though after it wouldn't start. My buddy said one of the times he tried to start it the speedometer was all the way up near 70. Another time in the parking lot the dash was stuck in the "awake mode" and the iBR light was illuminated as well as the GPS light.

    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    What kind of battery is it? Traditional liquid lead-acid type?

    I suspect a battery that reads only 3 volts is internally broken/damaged, not just discharged.
    It's a Yuasa YB30CL-B.
    Last year...was running about 60...about a mile from the ramp....died...no warning...no signs at all. Got towed in by a passing boat. Once I got it home found the battery had died...was a first for me. But it does happen.

  6. #6
    Nothin' better than Doo'in it! BigDaddyRXP's Avatar
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    A few years ago, I hit a wave in the ocean so hard.... my engine shut down instantly, and the dash wouldn't even light up afterwards. After a tow back to the ramp, the battery only had 8 volts. Battery was a Yuasa, only a year old... and always on a battery tender in the garage. Tossed a new one in there, and was good to go. As stated above..... they can fail at any moment, no matter how old they are, or how good there maintained.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SCHNORR12 View Post
    It's a Yuasa YB30CL-B.
    Quote Originally Posted by VaRedneck View Post
    ...was running about 60...about a mile from the ramp....died...no warning...no signs at all. ... found the battery had died...was a first for me. But it does happen.
    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyRXP View Post
    A few years ago, I hit a wave in the ocean so hard... my engine shut down instantly, and the dash wouldn't even light up afterwards. After a tow back to the ramp, the battery only had 8 volts. Battery was a Yuasa, only a year old...
    My recommendation is to install a factory sealed AGM battery such as the Deka AGM.

    AGM is a much tougher battery design than the traditional lead-acid batteries. Vibration resistance, leak proof, strong starting power, long life when properly maintained.

    I also had a battery fail last year while riding. Just internally broke when we stopped to chat. It suddenly had no ability to crank the engine, not even a little bit. It was the only battery I had in service which was NOT a Deka AGM. It was another brand and manufacture AGM, but not one I normally use.

    Replaced it with a Deka ETX16, and I expect no further troubles.

  8. #8
    Nothin' better than Doo'in it! BigDaddyRXP's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Replaced it with a Deka ETX16, and I expect no further troubles.
    You replaced a 30 amp with a 16 amp

  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigDaddyRXP View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Replaced it with a Deka ETX16, and I expect no further troubles.
    You replaced a 30 amp with a 16 amp
    The ETX16 battery size is appropriate for the make and model watercraft I ride, with 19 Amp Hour rating.

  10. #10
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    The nature of the AGM construction makes them much more durable. A PWC beats the snot out of a battery physically with all the bouncing around and pounding they take. The glass mat between the plates helps a ton. AGM only for me. I have seen a few lead acid batteries die suddenly

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