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  1. #1

    Question MFD Disconnect to run

    Hi All,

    I'm new to this site and looking to see if I can get some info.

    I have a 2000 1200 SLX - last season ran great till mid-season - kept running and to the end and stopped... after checking compression, the third cylinder (closest to the front) was blown (only showing 20 lb's or so). I bought a top-end rebuilt and took care of that during the winter - cleaning out the cooling system as well.

    After putting on the finishing touches (installing the exhaust), I connected the water supply for cooling and tried to start it up... (didn't work - no spark). So, I did some checking and looked like everything was good - battery at about 12.8v, ohms between the plug cap and the ground looked good, checked the wonderful 1/4 amp fuse (and the other as well).

    Then did some further checking on-line and found on this site that the (non-working) MFD (never worked in 5 years) could be causing a problem. I disconnected the harness cable to the MFD, and voila, started right up.

    Yes, there is a 40:1 gas/oil in the first tank.

    I only let it run for about 10 seconds on idle before I noticed a small water leak at the water outlet manifold, so, stopped and repaired with some gasket maker - the top-end kit came with 3 platinum pistons, rings, gasket and seals - in fact there was a rubber seal for the OM... and this from where it was leaking... anyway, i digress.

    My question: is there any concern I should have by disconnecting the MDF? The MDF has never worked before, never provide any information, no lights,etc... I have had this (and my 900) ski since 2008.

    Thanks to let me know, I plan on running out of water for about an hour or two on idle to break in the top-end, and don't want to do any damage to anything (especially all the new parts)...

    Brgds,

    Kevin


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    Do NOT idle the engine for a long time while on the hose. This is not a useful way to break in an engine. Break-in requires a load on the impeller and varying throttle ranges over time. Without the water load on the impeller you are not creating the desired break in conditions.

    Recommended engine break-in methods are described via my signature links and in the Tech and FAQ sections of Polaris Greenhulk.

    Unless you remove the jet pump and driveshaft there is risk of friction heat damage to the water seals in the driveline. Anything more than two minutes is considered excessive run time out of the water.

    Note: For short tests it is OK to start and run a cold engine for 20 seconds or so without any water cooling.

    No damage will occur from running the engine without the display. Of course you will have no warning of low fuel or engine overheat (I did not look up whether your specific model invokes the RPM limiter during overheat).
    Last edited by K447; 04-24-2014 at 07:10 PM.

  3. #3
    Hi and thanks for the response. Ok, after I sent the message - I went and looked-up engine break-in... and ok, I will break it in in the water based on your recommendations.

    For the part where you said, "No damage will occur from running the water apart without the display."... I was a little confused, does it mean that "there would be no specific damage running the ski in the water without the display connected?"

    Btw, yes, this model does invoke the RPM limiter during overheat, and I am aware of the risk, but, as the mdf doesn't appear to work anyway... Also, I only use in the potomac river, there are many marinas around and generally, I can run hard for about 3-4 hours on one tank. I have a pair (other ski is a polaris 900)and they are always out together keeping our eyes on each other (safety first). I always fill up and top the oil before going out (on both skiis), I always pre-start (with a little bit of carb/choke cleaner) before going to the water to prime the fuel line/carb (especially if it has sat for a couple weeks or more in the summer (oh,yeah, I winterize/fog every year)... and check the engine before/after a run and wash/spray it down w/water/lubricant/sealant.

    These skiis have been absolutely wonderful for the time I've had them and am seriously looking forward to getting more "air" this year on the 1200 than ever before!

    Thanks vm again for your response, and please just verify my understanding.

    K

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by kjclark62 View Post
    ...

    For the part where you said, "No damage will occur from running the water apart without the display."... I was a little confused, does it mean that "there would be no specific damage running the ski in the water without the display connected?"
    ...
    I had a typo in there, sorry.

    The engine does not care about the MFD display. No MFD is just fine for the engine, does not affect engine function.

    You just cannot tell what the engine RPM is without a display, so if it is getting gradually lower on max power you may not notice right away. Loss of peak engine RPM at full throttle is sometimes a sign that the carburetors need service. Not noticing a minor change in max power/RPM can sometimes result in lean burn piston damage if the engine continues to be operated.

    If the fuel system and carburetors are all 100% clean internally and operating properly, there is no issue.

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