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  1. #1

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    Extended crank, no start when hot

    I have a 2004 GTX SC that I purchased a few years back. When I bought it, the guy told me it was hard to start at times. No worries.

    The first time I took it out, wouldn't start (extended crank) and drained the battery. It cranked fine, but no start.

    So I changed the spark plugs and broke one (totally seized). Took off the head and had it fixed, replaced head gasket, new plugs, oil change, new battery, etc. Now it will start fine when it's cold. When running, it runs great. No back fire when trying to start. So this past weekend we rode for about 45 minutes, then let it sit for a while. Took me 3 cranks to get it started. I rode for about 15 minutes and turned it off. My wife decides to ride and it takes her about 10 cranks to get it started. I took it to the dealer awhile back, they had no problems starting it so they never duplicated the complaint (charged me $200 plus an oil change). I also have a bad cluster so I can't really check the codes but I am in the process of repairing the D1220 transistor on the cluster as soon as I can find someone to solder it for me.

    I've research this forum and don't see anyone with a similar issue. I know to check spark and fuel pressure, but that would be damn near impossible when I'm out on the water someday.

    When I was searching here I was thinking maybe the starter was warming up and not "catching" correctly. (?) Can't be the starter relay b/c the starter cranks always. I wouldn't think compression, spark or fuel would be an issue b/c after it starts, it runs perfect. What is the possibility of a bad key or something similar in the electronic system? Do our skis have some type of immobilizer system that wouldn't recognize the key and therefore not provide fuel? I don't know if it would even crank with the incorrect key?

    Anyone have any ideas on how to diagnose this issue? I'm not a mechanic but I do work at an auto repair shop, so I do have access to vehicle repair tools and testers.


  2. #2
    waz480's Avatar
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    I can only comment on cars and bikes i have worked on and the same kind of problem has turned out to be cam/crankshaft or both position sensors , there not hard to swap with known good ones if for no other season than to eliminate them ,
    Please keep us posted of your progress and good luck

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by waz480 View Post
    I can only comment on cars and bikes i have worked on and the same kind of problem has turned out to be cam/crankshaft or both position sensors , there not hard to swap with known good ones if for no other season than to eliminate them ,
    Please keep us posted of your progress and good luck
    I was thinking about that too. Mercedes is notorious for this when hot and after they cool down, no problem. The only difference I can think of is that on a Mercedes it will cause the vehicle to stall and not restart. I have no stalling issues or other issues while driving. But I'm comparing apples to oranges.

  4. #4
    waz480's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zonald View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by waz480 View Post
    I can only comment on cars and bikes i have worked on and the same kind of problem has turned out to be cam/crankshaft or both position sensors , there not hard to swap with known good ones if for no other season than to eliminate them ,
    Please keep us posted of your progress and good luck
    I was thinking about that too. Mercedes is notorious for this when hot and after they cool down, no problem. The only difference I can think of is that on a Mercedes it will cause the vehicle to stall and not restart. I have no stalling issues or other issues while driving. But I'm comparing apples to oranges.
    I have worked on some that will run fine cold and not start hot and every possibility in between depending on the vehicle , Like i said there worth swapping it would be nice if you could find a friend or dealer that would loan you known good set

  5. #5

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    I need friends!

  6. #6
    Got Boost? psycho rxp's Avatar
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    Are u saying the starter is spinning, but the Bendix is not catching the flywheel, to spin the motor over sometimes when hot? If so then the starter bendix is bad>(one way bearing)

  7. #7

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    No, the engine is cranking. Starter would appear fine to me based upon what is happening.

  8. #8
    waz480's Avatar
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    P/N 420664040 CAMSHAFT SENSOR $41.99

    P/N 420664140 CRANKSHAFT SENSOR $90.99
    I priced the sensors for you, I would double check the part number though and try and loan some first before commiting yourself to buying them just incase it's not the sensors lol ,
    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....CTRICAL-SYSTEM
    http://partsfinder.onlinemicrofiche....CTRICAL-SYSTEM

  9. #9

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    I think I am going to start with the crank sensor. I was able to get it for $60 at my local dealer.

  10. #10
    blackvr's Avatar
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    on 2004 the crank sensor is inside the pto. the engine will need to be removed for that and pto cover taken off. not going to be the cam sensor. the ski will always start even if its bad. easiest way to test the crank sensor you need to look at your rpms while cranking. if they are steady then your crank sensor is good and ecu is seeing a good signal. sounds like you may have fuel delivery issues. i would def check fuel pressure when ski is having these issues. i would remove the fuel pump and check filters. remember the ski is 11 years old. good luck

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