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  1. #1

    Which wheels with triton?

    The triton elite has 2 wheel size choices. I'm springing for the aluminum rims, as I plan to ride in salt, but wonder what I should chose for wheel size. Price difference is about $50.

    Tire Upgrades:
    F-#10384 ST145/R12E Alum. rims
    H-#09942 ST175/80D13C Alum. rims

    Any recommendations here?


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    I have a 2008 Triton Elite double. It came with the 12 inch wheels and Carlisle tires. I had issues with tire resonant frame oscillation at highway speeds when the trailer was empty.

    I eventually upgraded to the 13 inch wheels and tires, which completely solved the empty trailer problems.

    The larger ST175/80R13 tires just clear inside the stock Triton fenders, no room for anything bigger. The ride was much better with the larger tires. Not only are the tires a larger diameter but they run at lower sidewall air pressure. 50PSI instead of 80PSI makes a big difference. And the taller sidewalls are better defense against curb hits, potholes and rocks.

    I did notice that on hard bumps the tires would lightly rub the underside of the fenders. So last year I unbolted the torsion axle and slipped a pair of flat aluminum spacers between the frame rails and the axle brackets. That raised the frame and the fenders just enough. The spacers are maybe 1/2" thick, maybe 3/8" - I should go measure them, just to have it recorded somewhere...

    I have been told that the Triton aluminum wheels have but a single thin clear coating. My trailer dealer at the time recommended against the Triton brand wheels from a durability perspective. I only launch in fresh water so I use painted steel wheels.

    Since trailer tires have a limited lifespans of maximum 5-6 years, consider the option of galvanized steel wheels and then plan to replace the wheels and tires every 4-5 years. New wheels with tires don't cost much more than tires alone, when you add the cost of mounting the new tires to old rims.

    Sell the old rims with tires to someone too cheap to buy new

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    I have a 2008 Triton Elite double. It came with the 12 inch wheels and Carlisle tires. I had issues with tire resonant frame oscillation at highway speeds when the trailer was empty.

    I eventually upgraded to the 13 inch wheels and tires, which completely solved the empty trailer problems.

    The larger ST175/80R13 tires just clear inside the stock Triton fenders, no room for anything bigger. The ride was much better with the larger tires. Not only are the tires a larger diameter but they run at lower sidewall air pressure. 50PSI instead of 80PSI makes a big difference. And the taller sidewalls are better defense against curb hits, potholes and rocks.

    I did notice that on hard bumps the tires would lightly rub the underside of the fenders. So last year I unbolted the torsion axle and slipped a pair of flat aluminum spacers between the frame rails and the axle brackets. That raised the frame and the fenders just enough. The spacers are maybe 1/2" thick, maybe 3/8" - I should go measure them, just to have it recorded somewhere...

    I have been told that the Triton aluminum wheels have but a single thin clear coating. My trailer dealer at the time recommended against the Triton brand wheels from a durability perspective. I only launch in fresh water so I use painted steel wheels.

    Since trailer tires have a limited lifespans of maximum 5-6 years, consider the option of galvanized steel wheels and then plan to replace the wheels and tires every 4-5 years. New wheels with tires don't cost much more than tires alone, when you add the cost of mounting the new tires to old rims.

    Sell the old rims with tires to someone too cheap to buy new
    Thanks. I guess I'll go ST175/80R13, and plan for steel wheels. Replacing every 4-5 years seems like a small cost for overall cost of the hobby, and will save a little upfront money, which helps, since I will not be financing the trailer, and cash on hand is a little tight.

    Thanks for the quick response!

  4. #4
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    I bought the aluminum wheels with mine but they are more of an appearance item than anything.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by RobNH View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    ?..

    Since trailer tires have a limited lifespans of maximum 5-6 years, consider the option of galvanized steel wheels and then plan to replace the wheels and tires every 4-5 years. New wheels with tires don't cost much more than tires alone, when you add the cost of mounting the new tires to old rims.

    Sell the old rims with tires to someone too cheap to buy new
    Thanks. I guess I'll go ST175/80R13, and plan for steel wheels. Replacing every 4-5 years seems like a small cost for overall cost of the hobby ...
    Here is some more info regarding trailer tire lifespans, proper care and inspection, etc.
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...l=1#post630025

    I always carry a spare tire, mounted on the trailer. Plus the tools needed to change it easily.

    Some guys also purchase and carry an entire replacement axle hub assembly, all greased and ready to install. If a trailer bearing seizes while you are away from home, the only way to get back on the road quickly is to change the entire hub. The job is messy, but not difficult with a few tools and the trailer axle jacked up.

  6. #6
    Banned User
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    I bought the aluminum wheels with mine but they are more of an appearance item than anything.

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by RobNH View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    ?..

    Since trailer tires have a limited lifespans of maximum 5-6 years, consider the option of galvanized steel wheels and then plan to replace the wheels and tires every 4-5 years. New wheels with tires don't cost much more than tires alone, when you add the cost of mounting the new tires to old rims.

    Sell the old rims with tires to someone too cheap to buy new
    Thanks. I guess I'll go ST175/80R13, and plan for steel wheels. Replacing every 4-5 years seems like a small cost for overall cost of the hobby ...
    Here is some more info regarding trailer tire lifespans, proper care and inspection, etc.
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...l=1#post630025

    I always carry a spare tire, mounted on the trailer. Plus the tools needed to change it easily.

    Some guys also purchase and carry an entire replacement axle hub assembly, all greased and ready to install. If a trailer bearing seizes while you are away from home, the only way to get back on the road quickly is to change the entire hub. The job is messy, but not difficult with a few tools and the trailer axle jacked up.
    Spare was definitely planned, and the replacement axle hub sounds like a good idea as well. Will probably go that route.

  8. #8

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    I have the Triton Elite single place trailer with the ST175/80R13 Aluminum wheels with a spare. I have had no issues with these wheels. I got these over the 12 inch wheels in anticipation of doing long trips with the trailer. I recently drove this trailer over an 1800 mile trip in 3 days. I did not run into any problems with trailer on this trip. So I am happy with my choice of trailer and tire combo.

  9. #9
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    I just recently hauled my Elite double to Tampa and back. Around 2600 miles round trip. Rides like a dream.

  10. #10
    Trailer ordered. 13" painted steel rims. I got it for $1900 + accessories:
    $80 gas tray
    $350 diamond storage box
    $75 spare tire carrier
    $140 spare tire mount

    No tax collected by dealer, so I avoided sales tax, as I live in a tax free state (NH).

    Thanks for all the help.

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