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  1. #1

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    Polaris slt 750 pump reinstall, motor has a slight movement if i shake hard

    I wanted to test the engine mounts. I shook the motor and it does move slightly. I can see a little movement in the motor mounts. I don't see any damage but it moves at most maybe a 1/4" If I pull hard. Is that too much???? It originally have vibration before I noticed the water leak in the carrier, then the impeller and shaft teeth was worn on one side.

    I tightened all the bolts. I know there should be some give.

    Thanks


  2. #2

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    Uuugghhh, got it put back together but...... everytime I tighten the clamp on the plastic pwc side of the hose for the bearing carrier, it slide off like it is tapered that way. The other side is fine that connects to the carrier. My drive shaft is not in the middle of the opening, it is low in the opening, so I thought that was the problem. So, took the shaft and pump back out and it still slide back off when I tighten the clamp. I did put a little silicone so it would seal good. I tried to wipe it off and still slips off. What is the trick?

  3. #3

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  4. #4
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    Most folks use two clamps, side-by-side, on the hose where it connects to the plastic on the hull. Make sure the white plastic piece is clean and dry. Get any grease or silicone off it... that might be making it too slick to grab. You might even ever so slightly rough up the plastic with some sandpaper. And made sure the inside of the hose is clean. I'd use some brake clean and wipe down the plastic piece and inside of the hose to get it clean. Then push the hose on as far as it'll go and put the first clamp on as far towards the hull as you can get it. As you clamp it down, the hose shouldn't slip off like you describe. Then put the second clamp on beside the first. It'll feel like it's barely got much plastic to clamp onto.

    Cheers!

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by ripcuda View Post
    Most folks use two clamps, side-by-side, on the hose where it connects to the plastic on the hull. Make sure the white plastic piece is clean and dry. Get any grease or silicone off it... that might be making it too slick to grab. You might even ever so slightly rough up the plastic with some sandpaper. And made sure the inside of the hose is clean. I'd use some brake clean and wipe down the plastic piece and inside of the hose to get it clean. Then push the hose on as far as it'll go and put the first clamp on as far towards the hull as you can get it. As you clamp it down, the hose shouldn't slip off like you describe. Then put the second clamp on beside the first. It'll feel like it's barely got much plastic to clamp onto.

    Cheers!
    thanks ripcuda,

    That silcone may have helped it slide off. I looked at the hose and it has thinner walls on one side. Should I replace it and if so, can I use radiator hose from the parts store? Thanks for your help

  6. #6
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    If your worried about the hose failing due to the hose wall being thin on the one side... then replace it. They're cheap. Search 'Polaris SLT driveshaft' on ebay and you'll find a bunch. Or if you can find a radiator hose of the correct inner diameter that is at least as thick and straight... that should work too.

    If the thin spot in your hose is just on the edge... you can trim the hose (making it shorter) a little... it'll make the carrier sit closer to the hull and move the spot on the driveshaft where it rides. So you gotta make sure the spot where the carrier seals (rear seal) spin is on the fat part of the driveshaft and not the taper (where it won't seal).

    I see you have the solid engine/driveshaft coupler. My '94 had one too... but it wore-out and stripped the coupler and end of the driveshaft splines. Had to replace them both... driveshaft and coupler. I used the larger, rubber cushioned coupler and it's a direct fit... except for the plastic shield that used to cover the smaller solid coupler. Need the larger plastic shield for the larger coupler. I think mine failed due to all the wake jumping I do. So... just FYI... might double check the splines in your coupler and driveshaft end to see if your getting any premature wear.

    P.S. What type of intake grate are you running? Looks like a top-loader style. How's it work?

    Cheers!

  7. #7

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    Thanks,
    The hose walls was just thinner on one side. I think because my shaft is not exactly in the middle of the hole but more toward the bottom. I will just clean it good and sand the pipe a little. The carrier is one I got from eBay. My original stung a leak and I already had a vibration at idle speed. When I removed the drive shaft, the splines in the impeller and shaft were both bad. So, I am replacing them too. I bought this ski a couple years ago, so not sure of the grate.

    since this carrier is new, do I need to per grease it before I install the newer shaft?










    Quote Originally Posted by ripcuda View Post
    If your worried about the hose failing due to the hose wall being thin on the one side... then replace it. They're cheap. Search 'Polaris SLT driveshaft' on ebay and you'll find a bunch. Or if you can find a radiator hose of the correct inner diameter that is at least as thick and straight... that should work too.

    If the thin spot in your hose is just on the edge... you can trim the hose (making it shorter) a little... it'll make the carrier sit closer to the hull and move the spot on the driveshaft where it rides. So you gotta make sure the spot where the carrier seals (rear seal) spin is on the fat part of the driveshaft and not the taper (where it won't seal).

    I see you have the solid engine/driveshaft coupler. My '94 had one too... but it wore-out and stripped the coupler and end of the driveshaft splines. Had to replace them both... driveshaft and coupler. I used the larger, rubber cushioned coupler and it's a direct fit... except for the plastic shield that used to cover the smaller solid coupler. Need the larger plastic shield for the larger coupler. I think mine failed due to all the wake jumping I do. So... just FYI... might double check the splines in your coupler and driveshaft end to see if your getting any premature wear.

    P.S. What type of intake grate are you running? Looks like a top-loader style. How's it work?

    Cheers!

  8. #8
    ripcuda's Avatar
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    How bad was the vibration at idle? That will wear out the carrier over time. With the engine idling, if you grab the carrier and it's got a bad vibe... could be a bent driveshaft or bad alignment (pump-to-engine).

    Putting new seals in a carrier is pretty easy and cheap. If the bushings are wobbly/lose on the driveshaft, then you need to replace the carrier bushings or get a better one. But if you get a used one... I'd still recommend new seals. It's the most common leak point in the hull.

    But yeah... I put a couple fingers of grease inside the carrier to help fill it... that way I don't have to pump so much in it with my grease gun after it's installed with the driveshaft in place. Also rub a little grease on the driveshaft around the fat part where the carrier rides when your installing it so it'll slide past the seals easier. And don't forget a good dab of grease on the spines (on both ends) of the driveshaft... and the rubber driveshaft end bumpers.

    Cheers!

  9. #9

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    I sure hope it is not the alignment. It scares me the driveshaft is not in the middle of the pipe thur the hull. It just started vibrating. Especially if I try to pull something. My motor mounts lets the motor wiggle a little if I push back and forth hard. Maybe a quarter of an inch. I guess this is normal. I got a used driveshaft and impeller and a new carrier, and just reusing the housing hose but it kept slipping off. Maybe those bad splines was causing the vibrations because once it got more gas, it smoothed out.
    thanks for your help




    Quote Originally Posted by ripcuda View Post
    How bad was the vibration at idle? That will wear out the carrier over time. With the engine idling, if you grab the carrier and it's got a bad vibe... could be a bent driveshaft or bad alignment (pump-to-engine).

    Putting new seals in a carrier is pretty easy and cheap. If the bushings are wobbly/lose on the driveshaft, then you need to replace the carrier bushings or get a better one. But if you get a used one... I'd still recommend new seals. It's the most common leak point in the hull.

    But yeah... I put a couple fingers of grease inside the carrier to help fill it... that way I don't have to pump so much in it with my grease gun after it's installed with the driveshaft in place. Also rub a little grease on the driveshaft around the fat part where the carrier rides when your installing it so it'll slide past the seals easier. And don't forget a good dab of grease on the spines (on both ends) of the driveshaft... and the rubber driveshaft end bumpers.

    Cheers!

  10. #10

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    HELP!!!
    I put on the new carrier and the hose housing. I inserted just the drive shaft. I marked this tool roughly where the shaft should have been, if it was centered. It looks about 1/2" off. I knew it wasn't looking in the middle of the pipe that goes thur the ski. Well......

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