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  1. #1

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    99 slh cdi question

    I was riding my ski the other day and I killed it and could not get it started back up. I disconnected the battery for a while and still nothing. Took the plugs out and found I was not getting spark. So I got it home did all the ohm testing and found the brown wire was only getting 3.6volts and not the 8v. So I checked my battery during crank and it is not going below 11v. So now im guessing I need a new cdi or can they be fixed?
    Thanks for the help
    And I do have the updated ignition system with a brand new ignition coil that was bought a month ago.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Check the grounds in the electrical box and to the engine block via the stator.

    When you installed the Ignition Update did you remove the thin black wire that used to go to battery negative post?

  3. #3

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Check the grounds in the electrical box and to the engine block via the stator.

    When you installed the Ignition Update did you remove the thin black wire that used to go to battery negative post?
    I did not install the update myself, just got the ski a few months ago, but the small black wire is still there.. should i just completely remove it? And i checked the main ground wire with a volt meter, but I'm not sure what you mean check it via the stater.

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bummerzon View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Check the grounds in the electrical box and to the engine block via the stator.

    When you installed the Ignition Update did you remove the thin black wire that used to go to battery negative post?
    I did not install the update myself, just got the ski a few months ago, but the small black wire is still there.. should i just completely remove it? And i checked the main ground wire with a volt meter, but I'm not sure what you mean check it via the stater.
    When the Ignition Update kit is installed, the primary ground connection for the electrical box is changed.

    The factory original system (1996-1999 red domestic engines, except 1200) used that thin black wire to battery negative to provide ground for much of the electrical box. With the Gen III update stator, the primary ground for the electrical box is now provide by the stator black wire. This wire is grounded through the stator frame mounting bolts into the engine case.

    At the same time, the installation instructions say to delete/cut the original thin black wire to the battery negative post. This forces the electrical box to internally only use the stator black wire for ground.

    If the thin black wire is left installed then there are two ground connections into the electrical box. This confounds diagnostics since using an ohm meter to check ground connections when two ground paths are present can present confusing readings.

    Remove the thin black wire. Just coil it up and tape it aside.

  5. #5

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    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by bummerzon View Post
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Check the grounds in the electrical box and to the engine block via the stator.

    When you installed the Ignition Update did you remove the thin black wire that used to go to battery negative post?
    I did not install the update myself, just got the ski a few months ago, but the small black wire is still there.. should i just completely remove it? And i checked the main ground wire with a volt meter, but I'm not sure what you mean check it via the stater.
    When the Ignition Update kit is installed, the primary ground connection for the electrical box is changed.

    The factory original system (1996-1999 red domestic engines, except 1200) used that thin black wire to battery negative to provide ground for much of the electrical box. With the Gen III update stator, the primary ground for the electrical box is now provide by the stator black wire. This wire is grounded through the stator frame mounting bolts into the engine case.

    At the same time, the installation instructions say to delete/cut the original thin black wire to the battery negative post. This forces the electrical box to internally only use the stator black wire for ground.

    If the thin black wire is left installed then there are two ground connections into the electrical box. This confounds diagnostics since using an ohm meter to check ground connections when two ground paths are present can present confusing readings.

    Remove the thin black wire. Just coil it up and tape it aside.
    Should I retest everything afterwards?

  6. #6
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    After removing the thin black wire.

    Note: Disconnect battery positive before doing ohm testing on grounds.

    Check for zero ohms from electrical box black terminals to engine block.
    And also to battery negative post.

    Check for correct voltage (greater than 10.6 volts) at CDI Red/Purple wire when engine is cranking. Black meter probe on black CDI wire for this check.

  7. #7

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    Well I unplug the small black wire from the battery and tested all the grounds and they were all good. Checked for the correct voltage in the red/purple wire and it was good. So I bought a new battery and im still only getting the 3.4v at the brown wire. And still no spark

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by bummerzon View Post
    Well I unplug the small black wire from the battery and tested all the grounds and they were all good. Checked for the correct voltage in the red/purple wire and it was good. So I bought a new battery and im still only getting the 3.4v at the brown wire. And still no spark
    See the Tech section (or via my signature like) for the method of testing the Hall effect sensors using a 9 volt battery.

    Hook up the 9 volt battery as described to Brown, but leave the other Hall effect wires still connected to the CDI. What you are doing is providing an alternate '8 volt' power feed to the Hall Effect sensors. Be sure to get the 9 volt battery polarity correct. See if the engine will now start.

    If yes, then the stator is good and the Hall effect sensors are working.

  9. #9

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    Nope no start or spark

  10. #10

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    If the brown wire is not connected to each other the cdi will give out 4.6v and every now and then it will jump up to 8v when I let go of the start

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