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  1. #1

    1100 STX D.I. - Who knows their stuff? Thank you!


    PROBLEM #1: I have recurring Code 51, 52 and 53. I also have a Code 16 for the CPS which I can clear until the ski runs again and it returns. No matter what I do, Code 51, 52 and 53 for Injector Circuit Open #1, #2 and #3. One person tells me this is standard because the injectors needs 45V and that is why I am throwing the code. Others say no. The ski still was not making good throttle the more I ran it on the hose (all the while I never run it longer than 10 sec without water) and it had these faults for Code 51, 52 and 53. I ordered a used capacitor and installed it and it seems to make the ski hold throttle better. I was hoping that the original capacitor was bleeding out the injector voltage and that's why I had the open injector circuit faults. The capacitor seems to make it run better but this ski has a mind of its own so let's assume the capacitor is not the issue. While one day I believe that the original capacitor and crank position sensor are bad, I would swear that they would probably run the ski again if I plugged them back in. I tried this and one day it was fine and the next it wouldn't run so i'm back to new (to me/used) capacitor, new crank position sensor, new throttle position sensor. Can a bad stator affect any of the above in terms of the open injector fault or the dash display?

    PROBLEM #2 - My dash will not stay on longer than 3 minutes. I don't have a tach any more and have not since I went on the water. I had a tach before when the ski ran okay before the Crank Position Sensor replacement but the meter gauge never ever stays on longer than 3 minutes and never has. I am however willing to put that on the back burner until I get a tach signal again with the hopes that it will tell my meter display to stay on?

    Questions for the Experts:

    1.) Code 51, 52 and 53 which is standard and illustrated in the Service Repair Manual is obviously for troubleshooting injector voltage. But all 3 at once? The codes were in the old EMM and the new one so it is ongoing. I see posts on this forum from people with the Code 51, 52 and 53 and it usually their asking how the ski can run well with those codes and the Check Engine Light on? DUMB QUESTION--> Stators don't act funny right? They work or they don't and the capacitor works funny when it goes? I never tested the capacitor to see how quickly it bleeds out.
    2.) The ski runs fat. It is really fat. Is that my new EMM firmware? Is that because I don't have matched injectors? Is that because I have an injector circuit open fault in all 3 cylinders every single time I run the ski?
    3.) Is there anyone in the world that has used injectors and the floppy disk that they came with so that I can code the flow characteristics of them? People tell me that the skis will run fine without matched injectors. Some say no. Some say yes. Some say no. Some say yes.
    5.) I removed the wiring harness from the ski Saturday and replaced it with a used one from an Ultra 150 with the hopes that I could kill the above 2 problems with 1 stone. The used harness did not start the ski. I put the old harness back in and cleaned every connection with brake kleen and while it had no run since I went poking around in the stator, when I reinstalled the stator again and checked every single connection and began ohming out EMM pins to plugs, it yet again idles and runs and throttles. The 6-pin connector coming from the stator going to the DME. Is that a problem area?

    Sorry for the long dissertation but this ski has me whooped and I am still looking for answers. Thank you anyone that can help. Tomorrow I will check the voltage at each injector and the resistance in the harness which it details for in the service repair manual...WHICH I GOT FROM THIS SITE! THANKS AGAIN GREEN HULK!
    Last edited by BGB Motorsports; 05-06-2014 at 10:06 PM.

  2. #2
    IM not an expert in this but also trying to get a DI Ultra running
    so Im learning also
    Check output at the regulator 8 pin connector pin #2 and see what voltage is.
    While cranking it should be close to 20(mines 17) and while running should be over 40(mines 45).
    you can check at each injector too but have heard the connectors are prone to breaking since engine heat makes them brittle.

    I suspect you have an EMM problem and if possible swap to a known good one to see.
    PM me if you want any work done on the EMM,Im in the middle of 2 of them right now.

  3. #3
    Thanks for the reply as it is tough to find good information outside of here. I have been in contact with this guy in Texas that continues to try and help me...Harris. With the replacement capacitor, as of yesterday, the ski was running and idling but I had the above issues.

    Today I got to go out after work and the ski ran terribly (we will get to that)...but NO CHECK ENGINE LIGHTS. So even though it ran an entire 35 seconds and then died, albeit for a different reason, what I am learning based on advice from mentioned sources is that the charging system was probably fried.

    Code 51, 52 and 53 were caused by a poor capacitor. I currently now have an issue of a bad stator or at least bad stator connection. The ski ran up to 35 mph and then died just after breaking here all time mph record, up 12mph. This felt like being shot out of cannon relatively to before. I went to Autozone because it ate another battery so clearly the charging system was not working. It ate two batteries and oddly enough the dash stayed on longer than ever on the 1st battery. I should not say that it ate two batteries. Both batteries are fine now and making good voltage and 1 will go into another project.

    I would have to think that right now if the charging system worked the ski would be running fine. I would now be ready to blame my lack of a tach and my dash's shutting off all on the charging system. I have been all over this wiring harness and I have yet to see this 20A fuse that the Service Manual references.

    I will report back tomorrow when I re-wire the connector from the stator. The reason I asked last night if a stator can go bad is because it occurred to me that this plug sits in the lowest part of the hull where all of the water, mud and all of my nuts and buts go to hang out with each other. Take care and thanks for replying. My EMM is brand new. If it is now faulty it is because of something I did. Per Harris, the regulator is in the EMM and I just read in the manual that it is, so that is where I will go after stator inspection.

    What is showing in the EMM as far as codes for your DI? Let's see if I have learned anything in the 100+ hours I easily have into tinkering with this thing.

    P.S. I am quickly realizing why the saying I keep hearing is very true...I have never seen a sad person on a jet ski or at least one that was not smiling. I had to swim myself in under yellow tonight as I could not find a wrecker.

  4. #4
    half of the EMM is engine management the other half is voltage regulation
    Who would repair the EMM and do the engine side and not the voltage regulator?
    again check pin 2 on the 8 pin connector and see if you have 45 v.
    A fully charged battery will run longer than a minute with no charging system
    but motor will not run unless its outputting 45v for injector power.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    near Toronto, Canada
    Quote Originally Posted by BGB Motorsports View Post
    ... it is tough to find good information outside of here...
    The Kawasaki Ficht direct fuel injection system is very similar to the Ficht system used on Polaris PWC. See my signature links for lots of information on the Polaris Ficht system, much of which also applies to the Kawasaki version.

    Do you only have the one EMM or also a spare/swap EMM to test with?

    There is a critical capacitor sealed inside the EMM which often goes bad with age. Labelled C89 on the Polaris versions, when it fails the EMM can develop several different types of craziness or just outright will not run.

    The 45 volts to the injectors is critical. What is the voltage readings when the engine is just cranking and then when the engine actually starts? All injectors still plugged in, of course.
    Last edited by K447; 05-15-2014 at 07:57 AM.

  6. #6
    I'm fairly confident that the stator is the last remaining cause of my frustrations and I will have it replaced by tomorrow. As for repairing one side of the EMM and not the other, I retired the original EMM and bought a brand new one from Kawasaki. I did not send out anything for repair as the pins on the 1 board were broken and the EMM was worthless other than for the fact that it stored the original ski information, EMM report and injector info.

  7. #7
    LMK if you want to sell whats left of the old EMM
    I need one for parts

  8. #8
    Factory service manual, a must have.
    compression test, must pass per test procedure.
    spark test, must pass.
    fuel pressure test, must pass.
    displays on the kaw versions of the ficht fuel injection, or the Kawasaki lcd versions have always flaked out.

    dfi technologies in orange beach Al. are a huge resource for testing the emm, and helpful after they have tested/repaired the unit, is there oil inside the stator housing, elect fuel pump inside the tank must be in great shape and able to deliver the required pressure and volume, it sounds like you have multiple issues, start with the test procedure's above and work through all till in running condition, any water into the fuel tank will kill the pump and pressure regulator if left without removal.

  9. #9
    I'm having the same problems your describing Code 51, 52 and 53 for Injector Circuit Open with my 2000 Jetski 1100 stx
    Did you solve the problem when you changed the stator ?

    Quote Originally Posted by BGB Motorsports View Post
    I'm fairly confident that the stator is the last remaining cause of my frustrations and I will have it replaced by tomorrow. As for repairing one side of the EMM and not the other, I retired the original EMM and bought a brand new one from Kawasaki. I did not send out anything for repair as the pins on the 1 board were broken and the EMM was worthless other than for the fact that it stored the original ski information, EMM report and injector info.

  10. #10
    Quote Originally Posted by View Post
    code 51 52 53 will probably be a bad cap thats your 36000uf 63v it is bad that is the only time i see that code.
    I also have the same exact problem as described by original thread. I am using a homemade cable per instructions on this site and get all three codes 51, 52 and 53. I also cannot get the injectors to click using the static test in the kadiag software. Starts right up and idles but will not accelerate and runs like crap when you try to give it throttle.

    So my I checked the injector voltage at pin#2 on the 8 pin connector and get 20.7 cranking and 44.7 running. Also checked the 36000 uf 63V capacitor per the manual instructions for proper voltage bleed-down and its OK. Removed, cleaned and greased all EMM connections. All brand new NGK plugs.

    Any suggestions? thanks.

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