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  1. #1
    blairwill4's Avatar
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    2000 slx CAVITATION HELP!

    So I have my slx i just bought. I replaced fuel lines and went through carbs and new plugs and its running A1. But the damn thing cavitates like a champ. If you pin it at a slow speed it will bounce of the rev limiter and takes a minute to get out of the hole. Ive only ever had sea doos and they just have a plastic wear ring you can replace and boom your done. Ive heard that these skis dont really have that they just have a stainless housing? I know it has a New Nujet prop. I have the box, paperwork, and old impellar from the PO. Is there any other common issues that cause cavitation on these skis? I know on my old seadoos the carbon seal could go bad? What can I test and what do I need to look for on this thing. Also it ran 56.2 MPH on GPS at 6820 RPM.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Start by pulling the jet pump out and fully inspecting. Look for damage on the impeller blades, excess blade clearance to the surrounding wear ring, or damage to the stator vanes.

    If all the above are good, start looking at possible sources of jet pump ventilation. Anything that allows air leaks into the jet pump forward of the impeller will allow ventilation. Similar symptoms to cavitation, but different causes.

    The ride plate, pump base, pump shoe and intake grate must all be properly sealed to the hull and to each other. When accelerating from low speed the impeller creates suction in the pump tunnel intake. Unless fully sealed this suction allows air bubbles into the water and the impeller cannot develop much thrust when there is any air present.

    The drive shaft through-hull seals must also be air tight.

    While you have the jet pump out inspect the driveshaft splines and the mating splines in the impeller and the engine coupler. Worn splines can allow slippage.
    Last edited by K447; 05-08-2014 at 08:48 PM.

  3. #3
    blairwill4's Avatar
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    Okay awesome. I also wanted to add that if it is trimmed all the up or down verses being trimmed level it gets worse. Does that point to anything specific? I just read you whole thread on the pump removal and might I say very informative thank you. Im going to dive in tomorrow.

  4. #4
    blairwill4's Avatar
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    Well I tore it all apart tonight and this is what I found. Click image for larger version. 

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  5. #5
    blairwill4's Avatar
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    Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	328751Id say the impellar clearance was questionable. It was right at the width of a dime maybe just a hair under. It did have some nics along the edges. the nose cone had a small crack and had some water in it. The stator veins however were jacked. Could they cause pretty serious cavitation? and if so could you explain how im just curious how all the pieces of the puzzle fit together.

  6. #6
    fixer's Avatar
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    That stator is trashed, & the impeller clearance should be .020 max. Also that rubber bumper on the end of the stub shaft should be on the end of the driveshaft. You found your problem!

  7. #7
    blairwill4's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fixer View Post
    That stator is trashed, & the impeller clearance should be .020 max. Also that rubber bumper on the end of the stub shaft should be on the end of the driveshaft. You found your problem!
    I wondered where that went lol! So know where I can get a new one and know a good price?

  8. #8
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    Thickness of a dime is way too much. Under .010 is ideal. Id say at least you need a new or have your prop refurbished. Impros can make that prop better than new for around 100 bucks. I dont like buying used because you could end up buying a prop that is no better than what you have.

    If you are interested I have 2 nujet 7.0 props here. Id be willing to sell one. They are both in perfect condition with clearance under .010 in a new wear ring.

    If you look stators could be found for around 125 bucks for the stainless version, which is the one you want.

    The cones all seem to have a small crack in them but if you feel around it usually doesnt go all the way through. The water usually gets in through the seal at the rear or if the impeller shaft seals are failing.

    The joys of buying a used ski. There are issues like this with every one of them. Take the time now to go through all of it and you will have a fun reliable ski for years to come.
    Last edited by K447; 05-09-2014 at 08:08 AM.

  9. #9
    fixer's Avatar
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    Those stainless 6v stators are everywhere (Ebay or I'm sure someone here) & Impros can recondition the impeller for you.

  10. #10
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    Holy cow!! Is that a SS 6 vane? I've seen aluminum stators damaged like that before, but not SS.... did you ride through a mine field?

    I'd still be checking your ride plate, intake grate, and through hull for air tightness. Sure sounded like ventilation from one of those sources to me.....

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