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  1. #1

    1997 Seadoo XP: Oil leaking into engine?

    I rebuilt the engine and obviously not well but the oil in the oil tank is constantly draining into the engine and fills out to the cylinders. I was told it was a crankcase seal so does that mean I have to take out the whole engine and then put it back together? Further details: If I take out the spark plugs and try to start the engine the oil shoots out both cylinders.


  2. #2
    porschemaniac's Avatar
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    Crank seals on center of crank are leaking. The oil bath for the rotary valve leaks by the seals and into the bottom end. Correct way to repair is pulling crank out and replacing seals which involves complete disassembly of crank. I assume this wasn't a new crank?

  3. #3
    Was a whole rebuild with new seals...

  4. #4
    blairwill4's Avatar
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    One is probbaly not seated correctly. Once it runs does it run okay? If so theres a kind of rigged way to fix it without pulling the motor. Put a valve on the main oil line that you can open and close. When you are parking the ski close the valve. If you do this though, when you close the valve hang your key on it. So that way you can start the ski and forget to open the valve.

  5. #5
    Okay so I've already pulled the engine and pulled it apart and am down to the crankcase and the flywheel. I've narrowed it down to the RV seal gone bad since there is oil shooting out both pistons when I try starting it with the plugs out. How do I remove the magnetic piece in front of the flywheel?

  6. #6
    Derek45's Avatar
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    the bolts conecting Mag to Fly

  7. #7
    I've removed those but the mag looks like it is threaded onto the crank.

  8. #8
    Ken62465's Avatar
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    the mag cup is bolted to flywheel. You do not need to seperate them! If you did you need to make sure it's back on in it's proper aligment because of the sensor that reads those magnets. You need to lock that crank somehow now that your torn down so you can spin the nut..and it's a bitch cause red loctite. Usually you lock the crank and remove both flywheels before complete tear down. Some use wood dowels under the head...I have all the SD tools so it's easier. There's a small gear holder tool from SD that locks the flywheel so you can remove that nut. See those threads inside the inner hub of flywheel? Then after nut is removed another SD tool threads into that...then a center bolt you turn and the flywheel pops right off, it's a little puller. If that crank was rebuilt, and new seals installed, I'd question why they crapped out so fast. Makes me wonder if the crank runout was out of spec causing enough wobble to wear out that seal so fast. I only use Crank Works myself out of AZ for rebuilds..expense but well worth the cost!.

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