Thread: Taking a motor out of an SUV
05-12-2014, 11:18 PM #1
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
Taking a motor out of an SUV
I have a blown motor & am going to need to have the motor out to either rebuild or to swap out for another engine. I am mechanically inclined, & have done some work to my ski (not a complete beginner).
I am looking for guidance, & advice on pulling the motor out. Mainly what needs to come off & what can stay together for ease of pulling the motor.
I have taken the plastic Air trap off the Carbs & the head off the Cylinders. I Have seen Cylenders come off with the exhaust manifold still attached, & It seems the muffler would be nice to take off in one chunk.
also how does the motor disengage the drive shaft?
Do I need to slide the motor forward?
I see there are 2 bolts holding the motor mounts to the ski & 1 bolt holding the motor to the mounts.. which do you take out?
This will definitely be the biggest job I will have performed on a ski & I am anxious. But I know that with the wealth of knowledge on here there are some great tips & secrets you all can share.
if you have taken a motor out I'm sure you have some advice & I would like to hear it!
05-13-2014, 01:32 PM #2
- Join Date
- Aug 2008
Can anyone please help out?
05-13-2014, 07:44 PM #3
- Join Date
- Jan 2014
- Chester, Va
Have you tried a forum search? Do you have a shop manual for the ski? I have no experience with that ski, so I'm of no use to you. I did a quick search and it appears there's a how-to on the sbt forum. Hope that helps.
05-13-2014, 08:46 PM #4
just remove the single bolts that holds the motor into the rubber motor mount, and the coupler will disengage when you slide the motor forward, its best to remove the exhaust and carbs, and just about anything that will unbolt from the motor to make pulling it out easier
05-13-2014, 08:47 PM #5
Hey there Erik..
Unfortunately a lot of the old school guys seem to have abandoned the forum somewhat..?
- I'm sure to a certain extent due to the same question gets asked over and over again, by new members.
-- I can personally testify to feeling somewhat frustrated when I see the same question that has been answers dozens of times. (often on the same page or one proceeding it) being asked yet again..!!
Now, I realize new jetski owners of older equipment will at some point in their new ownership run into problems.!
- It really is a dead on certainty..!! (unmaintained 2 stroke have issues - unfortunately as you now know)
Regardless that doesn't help you too much with your... As far as I'm aware not been asked before question..
SO, here we go mate..
We'll get to the images shortly.!!
Before you do anything put the cylinder head back on with the exhaust bracket. snug down the bolts on both parts as the exhaust bracket is also your lifting point.!!
1/. Remove the fuel inlet line off the rear of the carb rack assembly (plug the line with a bolt or something similar then secure it up out the way.
- Next remove the return line from the front of the carb rack assembly. (Lift it up and any fuel left in the line should run back into the tank. secure it out the way)
2/. Disconnect the throttle cable and your choke cable. (2 x 10mm spanners required) secure them out the way.!
2a/. Also while your undoing these. disconnect the water line from the exhaust boot that goes to the overboard pisser
2b/. The stainless steel plate that goes under the Air-box on top of the carbs, has two grease points on it, the rearmost point needs to be disconnected either from the plate or pulled away from the midshaft.
3/. In the first image above..
this is exactly how I lifted the motor complete out of my GP1200 hull. Well minus the front stator/flywheel cover as I manged to shear my flywheel off the crank snout.?? (so a quick investigation revealed the damage.)
- which brings me to the next stage of the removal procedure. In Yamaha's wisdom they decided NOT to include a plug to disconnect the stator from the electrical box on the midwall..??
-- So, if the motor is being lifted out with the front cover still attached then the electrical box needs to come along with it. (no big deal only a couple of bolts secure it to the midwall) sit this electrical box on top of the engine before lifting it out..
- The positive lead needs to be disconnected from the Battery, As this is attached inside the electrical box. (Safe to assume the battery should've/would've been disconnected first before anything takes place)
4/. Remove the drive coupler cover piece. (two 10mm's)
Next, it's time to undo the engine mounts. (you'll notice in the images that the front two mounts are still attached to the bed plates)
- You want to first attempt to undo the 12mm bolts that go into the engine mounts. if they come out easily enough then that's great..(make a note of what shim came from where.. black sharpie or similar)
-- if the bolt is stuck/seized and is seriously twisting the engine mount rubber. you're going to have to undo the two 12mm bolts that hold the engine mount(s) down. (Caution: if it's twisting and you try to force the bolt out the mount you'll destroy it)
5/. In the second image, I've circled a couple of places where hoses/connections have to be removed.
- the rear exhaust hose needs to be undone where it attaches (white circle)
-- the cooling water inlet (yellow circle) is next to be undone. (this is easiest when the motor has been lifted a little way out the hull)
-- below that is your two main electrical connectors. the starter (red circle) and just behind it on one of the starter motor bolts is your main earth lead(black) (again these are easiest removed when the motor has been lifted to about halfway out the hull)
6/.That really is about all that needs removing in order to get the motor out. (the good news is your oil system is already disconnected/removed.)
7/. OK then you're all set..
-- Attach your lifting apparatus (not a person(s)) a block & tackle or engine lifter please..!!
-- attach to the exhaust bracket lifting point. take the tension (just) then slide the motor forward it will pop clear of the midshaft coupling.
-- from here a minimal amount of angling of the motor during the lift may be required to clear the exhaust and carb manifolds out of the opening aperture.??
-- REMEMBER to stop about half way and remove the items I circled..!!
That's pretty much it Erik..
*before you do anything quickly measure the opening to ensure it'll come out fully assembled.? (it 100% does on a GP1200 as you can see)*
Get to it my friend..
Last edited by quadzilla; 05-19-2014 at 05:20 PM.
05-19-2014, 09:55 AM #6
- Join Date
- Apr 2014
Thanks x2 quadzilla!!! I have a hole in the hull on my GP and have to pull the motor to get to the backside. So you killed 2 birds with one stone. We have tried to manually lift but it keeps getting hung on carb linkages so I guess I'm off to buy a hoist of some type to finesse it out easier.
05-19-2014, 05:44 PM #7
You could probably rent an engine lifting hoist for not too much money.
- What you describe could be done in a good weekend..
In the first image above you can see the backend of my GP1200.
- I Kevlar reinforced the entire floor of the hull with two full layers of Kevlar matt after an initial full length layer of 4" Kevlar tape down the center line of the hull
LOL.. that hull is quite literally "bulletproof"
It was quite a bit of work and not cheap. But I have no intention of selling it Ever.! so thought I'd do it right.
- That ski get's a very very hard life. (no doubt the main reason the crank let go)
I'm in the process just now of rebuilding the motor with quite a bit more "juice" for this season..
* Make sure you use only "Epoxy resin" when you do your repairs *
- Yes polyester or vinyl ester resin will stick.! but it won't stick forever. and especially not on a hull underside.!
- Hulls flex about the place.. ALOT..!!
Getting back to removing the motor..
- I can pull one of these out in about half an hour single handed..
Ideally you want an assistant or two, one to work the hoist and one to help you wiggle the motor a little to get it out the opening.
Then you can get to work on your hull..!!
05-19-2014, 07:44 PM #8
05-19-2014, 07:45 PM #9
I learned the hard way about removing the 65u my first time, flywheel ripped a big chunk of my left arm out, 6am ER visit lol DO NOT try to lift this out from standing on the side! lol
I ended up putting 2 of my tie straps all the way around the engine, straddling over top of it and pulling straight up. Not easy, but possible with one person. I also had some of the other parts off though. Might be impossible to remove with some of the extras attached ? When I reinstalled I had most of it attached, don't recall what all was, but put it back in the same way. That's a bit harder though, unfortunately.
05-19-2014, 10:41 PM #10
- Join Date
- Apr 2014
That was also a question I had. If I remember right, it is a "SMT" hull and not fiberglass so polyester does not REALLY repair it, from what I understand surfing the web. I was kind of wanting to use gelcoat for the "paint" however, I don't think you can because isn't gelcoat polyester based too? I think I recall that the hulls originally had regular automotive style paint for the coating. If you know, it would be greatly appreciated.
Are you running premix? I have 2-1200's and one has been converted as has my boat outboard and I am thinking about doing this motor too as I don't really trust oil pumps.
OP, sorry for hijacking your thread for hull repair.
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