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  1. #1

    Taking a motor out of an SUV 1st time some advice, insight would be apreciated!


    I have posted this thread in the old school ski forum & have had no reply's... I am eager to get started but need some guidance!! I would appreciate any help!!

    I have a blown motor & am going to need to have the motor out to either rebuild or to swap out for another engine. I am mechanically inclined, & have done some work to my ski (not a complete beginner).

    I am looking for guidance, & advice on pulling the motor out. Mainly what needs to come off & what can stay together for ease of pulling the motor.

    I have taken the plastic Air trap off the Carbs & the head off the Cylinders. I Have seen Cylenders come off with the exhaust manifold still attached, & It seems the muffler would be nice to take off in one chunk.

    also how does the motor disengage the drive shaft?

    Do I need to slide the motor forward?

    I see there are 2 bolts holding the motor mounts to the ski & 1 bolt holding the motor to the mounts.. which do you take out?

    This will definitely be the biggest job I will have performed on a ski & I am anxious. But I know that with the wealth of knowledge on here there are some great tips & secrets you all can share.

    if you have taken a motor out I'm sure you have some advice & I would like to hear it!


  2. #2
    Derek45's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
    MO. Mark Twain, LOTO
    remove exhaust, Carb rack, remove exhaust manifold, remove jet pump, as drive shaft is atatched to jet pump, your will want to check it anyways, remove only the top single bolt not the 2 base motor mounts bolts.

  3. #3
    You dont have to pull the pump. Just pull the exhaust off along with the air box and disconnect all the wires & cables.

  4. #4
    Myself's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2007
    North Central Arkansas
    Right...... wires, cables, hoses, motor mounts, carbs, exhaust, pull it.

  5. #5
    I pulled mine out with the complete exhaust attached. I only removed the air box and carbs to remove the engine. And I reinstalled that way too. Of course I was using a cherry picker so it made it very easy.

  6. #6
    Wait I lied. The stator cover will need to be removed before the engine can be removed. I figured that out while I had the motor half way out. Also my engine mounts were seized to the engine brackets so I had to remove the two bolts securing the each mount to the hull

  7. #7
    1. Remove flame arrestor but leave carb rack on. Once you remove the bottom clamshell of the flame arrestor you will need to either set the bottom aside down in the hull or simply disconnect the 3 oil lines that attach to it if they are still being used. If you are on pre mix they are probably not there.
    2. Drink a beer
    3. Attempt to remove just the 4 center bolts on the motor mounts. If the rubber mount just wants to twist then u need to remove the 2 on each foot instead. If u remove the single one on each...make sure and watch for the horseshoe shaped shims that may or may not be under each cradle leg. I usually try to take a pic with my camera down there on each foot before removal to see if there is one there before it falls into the hull.
    4. Open gas cap to relieve tank pressure...then Remove the fuel IN and return fuel lines from the front and back of the carbs. I usually just take a phillips head screw driver and shove it in each gas line to block them off.
    5. Remove the 2 bolts on the exhaust temperature sensor on the right side of the longer exhaust section.
    6. Remove the stainless steel plate that sits on top of the carb rack by disconnecting the 2 bolts... One on each end. One of them has a ground wire attached. Then cut the zip tie at the bottom of the black rubber hose that connects to the intermediate shaft bearing housing and on the front side of the motor the one that connects to the flywheel cover. Those are grease lines.
    7. Disconnect the throttle cable and the oil pump cable bye first removing the three bolts that connect the stainless steel plate to the front of the carburetor rack. There are two bolts on top and one down lower . That should give you some slack to be able to easily remove the two cables from the carburetor itself. Remember to take or make note which goes in which hole on the round carburetor actuator.

    8. Remove the 2 bolts that connect the oil pump to the front of your motor if you are not on pre mix. I usually take a couple zip ties and tie the oil pump up around the gas tank straps to keep it out of the way.

    9. Remove all of the bolts on the front of the motor that secure the flywheel cover to the motor. I think there are 10 or 12 of them but cannot remember offhand. There is a pry location. Pry the cover off lightly. There are two centering pins that keep it in place so you may need to work back and forth until it comes off. There is a strong magnet in there so don't be surprised if it sucks itself back on. Try to give ty the flywheel cover out of the way. I believe you should be able to ty it up to the top by the fresh water flush adapter area.

    10. Reach down on the left hand side of the motor and you will feel the beer can size starter. Disconnect the red wire from the small nut. There is a not then the wire then on washer. Try not to lose the washer under the motor. Then disconnect the negative battery wire and pull it out through so that it hanging loosely over the motor.

    11. Loosen the large worm clamp located on the rear most section of the exhaust where it connects into the rubber boot. Make sure it is loose enough for you to push down out of the way on to the rubber boot.

    You now have a loose but very heavy long block ready to pull out of the hole. Slide the motor forward until the PTO disconnects from the mid wall coupler about 3 or 4 inches . If you have a cherry picker or at least a 12 volt winch to do the job for you you should be able to slowly guide it up through the hole. You will have to slightly tilt it so that the carburetor rack does not hang up since that is the lighter side

    If you decide it is too cumbersome to get out in one piece for some reason then I recommend:
    12. Remove the 2 long top bolts and 2 short bottom bolts on the bottom of the bend on the blue exhaust pipe. There is a paper gasket reinforce buy steel at this location. Pry the area apart and the entire pipe and curved portion will separate after you remove two horizontal and two vertical bolts that hold it down to the motor I believe. Those have red thread lock on them usually so they are a pain in the butt to remove sometimes.

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