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  1. #1

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    sl 650 Water Test problems

    I just took out my sl 650 for a water test after working on it for a while. I read up on how to do it right and everything, so I backed it into the water first to make sure it didn't leak, which of course, it did. So we pulled it back out, double checked the plug and tried again and the same thing. I noticed the plug was a little loose feeling but I didn't know if it was supposed to be like that or hard to move. The only thing that was really submerged was the back end, like the jet pump and stuff. What cause this? Faulty plug, a broken seal or something from removing the jet pump? I couldn't see where the water was coming in.It looked to be from back behind the foam pieces like where the plug is, but I couldn't really tell. Another thing I noticed is that when the jet ski was turned on while in the water it got a little smokey in the hull. It was coming from the Flame arrestor thing (where that big rubber elbow is) It wasn't a whole lot but it had me a little worried. Is this normal or what causes this? I just replaced the fuel pump and this was the first time the ski has been started for more than a few seconds in about 3 years. So maybe it just needed to run a little bit or something? Or maybe I need more oil in my premix? Idk..Needless to say, I didn't get off the trailer today. So I was wondering if someone smarter and with more experience could help me out! Thanks!


  2. #2

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    I also just noticed that inside the hull there are 4 bolts with nuts on them (I assume these are what the jet pump bolts down to), and the nuts weren't tightened down all the way, and there is also one missing a nut.Could this be the issue or are there other things I need to check ? For example am i supposed to put some kind of sealant on the jet pump when I put it back on or does tightening the bolts down create a seal?

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    What model year is this SL650? Last two digits of the HIN number plate on the rear deck.

    I would replace the original old style drain plug with a modern captive type. Commonly available from marine supply sources.

    Drill two small holes for the mounting screws, put a thin bead of sealant around the new plug assembly rim and snug it down. Wipe away any excess sealant. 100% water tight and no chance of losing the drain plug.

    What maintenance checks and servicing has been done?

    Did you take the carburetors apart and rebuild them yet?

    Inspect the crankcase intake reeds?

  4. #4

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    1993. I replaced the stator because the wires had been fried. I put in a new fuel pump, gas lines, metal fuel cap. I haven't rebuilt the carbs yet. Im pretty sure the drain plug was just loose. I didn't realize you had to screw it down to tighten it up. Will see if it works. I might go ahead and replace it anyways though since it is looking pretty old

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dellen10 View Post
    1993.

    I replaced the stator because the wires had been fried. I put in a new fuel pump, gas lines, metal fuel cap. I haven't rebuilt the carbs yet.

    Im pretty sure the drain plug was just loose. I didn't realize you had to screw it down to tighten it up. Will see if it works. I might go ahead and replace it anyways though since it is looking pretty old
    Twenty one years old!

    The 1992 and 1993 blue Fuji engines were the very first two years of Polaris PWC production. Polaris tweaked and revised some things afterwards as they received feedback from the field. The water cooling system is unique to the 1992 and 1993 as it includes cooling water jackets for the crankcase.

    Do take some time to read up on the common maintenance items for these machines.

    Is is the fuel pump the upgraded triple outlet fuel pump?

    It is critical that the entire fuel system is 100% good. From fuel filler cap to the carburetors. Check whether your model has or needs the fuel return restrictor. This is a small brass pellet that resides inside the factory fuel return hose on some models. I can never remember which years had (or needed) that restrictor.

  6. #6

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    It is a triple outlet. I have read up a lot on what needs to be done and some were already done. I don't believe mine has a restrictor. The only thing I know needs to be done is rebuild the carbs

  7. #7

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    Took it out for another try, and there was no more leak. I'm pretty sure the drain plug just wasn't tight. As far as the little bit of smoke coming up, it was only when the ski got in the water and only lasted about 20 seconds, it was weird. But it started right up in the water, idled good (it did die once while idling but it started right back up! I took it out and went about 1/4 speed (not even breaking the wake) for about a min, all seemed to be good. So I decided to see what she had! It ran good and fast! A problem I had before all this electrical stuff happened was it would go for like 10 seconds and then just bog down. But I didn't have that problem. I ran for about 10 min just to make sure it was good and had no problems. Got it on the trailer and out of the water and checked inside. The front cylinder seemed to be a little hot. I did the 3 second test and was able to keep my hand on it, but just barely! I also noticed there was a little gas sprayed from the rear cylinder, but I think I just didn't have the spark plug on tight enough.

    I guess my my only questions are this. What makes a cylinder run hot and what can I do to fix it? And also would something else cause gas spraying from the spark plug? Other than that it ran really good! Better than it did before I had all of these electrical issues!

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    I can only advise caution regarding the carburetors. Ten minutes is more than long enough to do damage to the engine if one or more carburetors is running lean. Hopefully this is not happening, but the risk is real.

    If you remove the spark plugs and use a tiny light to inspect down inside the cylinders, you may be able to see what is known as a 'piston wash' pattern. If instead of a proper wash pattern you see signs of a depression or hole being eroded into the center of a piston, that is a huge warning signal that something is wrong with the fuel system.

    As I mentioned previously, the cooling system on these early Fuji is unusual. It is possible for sand or silt to accumulate inside the water jackets, this restricts water flow and can cause localized overheating.

    The thermostat housing should be disassembled and inspected. Any signs of sand or debris in the cooling system means you need to further inspect for possible trouble in the cooling system.

  9. #9
    Derek45's Avatar
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    and the two main things that cool the motor while running is Water and fuel to piston

  10. #10

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    What exactly is the thermostat housing that you're talking about? And how do I go about cleaning it and the rest of the cooling system? I looked down in the pistons and they all looked good!

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