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  1. #1

    Angry 110 with no spark.

    Hello everybody, I am new to the jet ski world and i just bought one that needs a little work it has been well taken care of by a really good family friend and was told it over heated two years ago. after working on it I am not getting any spark and I noticed a wire unplugged and i cont find its home I dont think it has anything to do with spark but its bothering me Click image for larger version. 

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ID:	330002can anybody fill me in on the little guy you can text or call @8152897901

  2. #2
    ripcuda's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Newman Lake, WA
    Hello and Welcome to Green Hulk!

    That 2004 Polaris MSX 110 you got there... I'm sad to say... won't exactly be the best ski to introduce you to the fun world of PWCs. But if you're determined enough to learn all the quirks about the Weber-engined MSX 110 (and it's big bro MSX 150)... and you got deep pockets ($$)... I'm sure we can help you out.

    That wire you're holding connects to the exhaust manifold temperature switch (rearside of exhaust manifold)... just a single wire, push-on connector. This wire will not affect spark. But it detects when the exhaust manifold gets too hot (you mentioned overheated). Unplugging it renders the safety switch useless and the ECU thinks all is well... when it very well may not be.

    I'd bet your no spark issue is battery related. You need a strong battery... showing greater than 10.5vdc WHILE cranking for the ECU to energize the ignition system. A semi-charged, or weak battery won't cut it.

    Before you go trying to just start it up... I'd seriously read-up and learn all you can about the Weber. Here's a great place to start:

    You mentioned the Weber got overheated. This could be... blockage in the fresh water system... causing the exhaust manifold to get too hot. Or worst case could be broken waterpump drive gear (plastic)... gotta pull whole engine and disassemble to replace. Either way... I'd be worried about a blown headgasket and/or warped head... happened to me.

    After you get the engine cranking... first thing you need to do is a compression test on each cylinder. Less than 125psi... and you've got trouble. If compression checks out okay 125-140psi... I'd recommend a leak-down test. This will catch a blown headgasket (compression test won't... unless it's major). These two tests will reveal whether you have a simple repair or very expensive one to undertake.


  3. #3
    Thanks sorry for the delay I just put on back burner for a bit. I replaced coolant temp switch new battery and still nothing I have done some research and and tests head is good as well as gasket. just doesnt seem to power up at all. put lanyard in no sounds, nothing pwers up nothing

  4. #4
    ripcuda's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Newman Lake, WA
    Check the fuses. They are in a plastic case on the wire harness on the right side in front of the battery. There are also some above the battery near the main relay.

    Nothing "powers up" with the OEM SIFB until you tap the starter. Then you should hear some clicking and humming of the throttlebody and the throttle should move (can hear it) when you squeeze the trigger. Do you hear these sounds? There is no known way to "bypass" the SIFB.

    So it'll crank, but no spark?

    What plugs are you using?
    Test the volts at the battery WHILE cranking. Needs to be 10.6vdc or above.
    Inspect the wires to the coil packs.
    Inspect the ground wires (rear side of intake manifold)... ensure good clean ground to battery.


  5. #5
    Yes all fuses are good the plugs are ones I bought from polaris dealer that they recomended. But yes it cranks and the only thing that makes any sound is starter turning. The main relay has power going to it but nothing going out.

  6. #6
    ripcuda's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Newman Lake, WA
    Main relay if very important... if it's bad... yeah, it won't start

    troubleshooting main relay from service manual
    Main Relay
    Inspection Procedure:
    Provide battery voltage to PIN 3 and ground
    PIN 10. Continuity should be seen between
    PINS 11 and 2.
    Provide battery voltage to PIN 3 and ground
    PINS 10 and 7. Continuity should be seen
    between PINS 15 / 8 and 13, 6, 5, 4, and 7.

    Suspected Problem
    Defective relay. During normal operation,
    the ECU grounds PINS 7 and 10 to close
    the main ECU power relay and fuel pump
    driver relay.
    The fuel pump driver relay also supplies
    battery voltage to the lambda sensor, ignition
    coils, fuel injectors and wastegate solenoid.

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