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  1. #1

    need help for 1st jet-ski

    Looking to purchase my first jet-ski, what do you guys suggest, thinking about the rxp but what year would be the best to get, I hear they have had some supercharger problems, what do you guys know about the aquatrax r-12x turbo ? thanks for any help


  2. #2
    BOOSTED's Avatar
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    Get the RXP and get the metal washers for the SC from jerry. And be done with it.

  3. #3
    What seems to be the problem with the superchargers, I am sorta familiar with centrifical superchargers, I have a mustang with a vortech supercharger on it, is only on certain years ?

  4. #4

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    Quote Originally Posted by jt98boosted View Post
    What seems to be the problem with the superchargers, I am sorta familiar with centrifical superchargers, I have a mustang with a vortech supercharger on it, is only on certain years ?
    the standard rxp has ceramic supercharger clutch washers which are well known to disintergrate, the upgrade is metal ones, get those installed and your well into a trouble free ski

  5. #5
    jt98boosted: welcome to the forum!

    Ok, you know the working of your SC in the stang, (I`m a ford man myself)
    unlike your belt driven SC which has no real shock load to the drive mechanisms, the SC`ers in our skis needed a way for the gear and shaft to seperate/slip when the jet pump becomes unhooked as in no wtaer or lack of enough water to cause rapid rise in RPM level that reach the rev limiter. as the ski becomes unhooked or airbourne when in rough riding conditions or wave jumping if your heavy on the throttle, you`ll be up against the rev limiter, now when you rehook or when the ski lands back in the water with the power maxed out there is a sudden shock load to the drive line/drive shaft/prop etc as the prop begins to grab water, (similar to spinning tire, then tire grabs abruptly and shock the transmission and rear gears) this in turn is transmitted to the SC gearing since our SC`ers are direct gear drive off the crank. There needed to be a way that the gear can free spin/slip (sort of) when this occurs, so BRP designed the ceramic clutch system with internal needle bearings and a splined collar. ceramics are pretty rugged and can withstand lots of heat, BUT when they decide to come apart, the ceramic debris/particles flow thru your oiling system and totally thrash the oil pumps and related parts that provide lubrication for the engine...

    if you want to take the time and use the search function, you see many devastating pictures of ceramic and oil pump failures posted.
    here is a pic of one of the ceramic discs missing in my own SC in my GTX SC...
    Hope this helps you understand the theory better!...PR...
    Last edited by Pale Rider; 05-04-2007 at 08:19 AM.

  6. #6
    and here is a diagram of the SC...PR...
    Last edited by Pale Rider; 01-11-2008 at 11:13 PM.

  7. #7
    Thanks pale rider that helps alot, how hard are these engines to work on tight compartment ?? Supercharger easy to get to ? Wonder if sea-doo knows of the problem and plan on fixing it in the new models, the rxp is the jet-ski I a leaning toward buying thanks for your help guys

  8. #8
    I'm kind of a big deal SeanCucf's Avatar
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    the problem isn't as wide spread as the internet would have you believe, so seadoo will not/has not changed the ceramic washers as of yet. It is a problem, but they save money by "fixing" the problems as they arise instead of changing the manufacturing process. That being said, it's such an easy fix for the moderately skilled mechanic and only costs 100 bucks if you do it yourself, or 150 if you take the SC'er out and send it to Greenhulk. Most of us here just want to avoid the problem all together and switch out out the ceramics for metal washers sold in the online store here. Getting it fixed PROPERLY by a dealer tends to be a huge headache and VERY time consuming (weeks to months). Whereas if you change the ceramics for metal now, it takes maybe an hour by yourself or a couple days to mail it to Greenhulk(Jerry) and back.

    after you get rid of those ceramic washers you can count it as reliable or more than a honda

  9. #9
    Flynfox's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SeanCucf View Post
    the problem isn't as wide spread as the internet would have you believe, so seadoo will not/has not changed the ceramic washers as of yet. It is a problem, but they save money by "fixing" the problems as they arise instead of changing the manufacturing process. That being said, it's such an easy fix for the moderately skilled mechanic and only costs 100 bucks if you do it yourself, or 150 if you take the SC'er out and send it to Greenhulk. Most of us here just want to avoid the problem all together and switch out out the ceramics for metal washers sold in the online store here. Getting it fixed PROPERLY by a dealer tends to be a huge headache and VERY time consuming (weeks to months). Whereas if you change the ceramics for metal now, it takes maybe an hour by yourself or a couple days to mail it to Greenhulk(Jerry) and back.

    after you get rid of those ceramic washers you can count it as reliable or more than a honda
    Well sd.

  10. #10
    vidbuster's Avatar
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    Thumbs up

    As for you needing help for your first ski, for sure go with the RXP. I bought my first ski last year and it was an RXP. Prior to purchase, I have never been on an RXP so the first times I opened the throttle, I couldn't believe the power. I ordered some Riva Washers, but haven't installed them yet. Next month I'm going to get a Stage I upgrade.

    I think the worst thing about a new ski is the 10 hour break in period. Just grab a few friends and switch off every once in a while.

    Its up to you, but personally I wouldn't go with the RXT. For a 2 seater the RXP ride remarkably well and is much more maneuverable.

    good luck and don't feel like you got taken for a ride after purchasing. This thing is sick!

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