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  1. #1

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    STX-R Severe Damage and Rebuild. First Time Rebuild, looking for some pointers!

    Well here is what I'm working with. Nice piston huh? the rings are in there somewhere!

    I'm planning on a complete rebuild so I'm going to need some help!

    The skirt broke off and the crank knocked it through the case. Not a big deal, figured I could get it welded...then when I disassembled it I realized a crack protruded up to the mating surface of the case half.....any thoughts? I worry the seal between the halves will be compromised from here on out unless a good repair shop can square it away.

    Anyone have a good case they want to sell!?!

    next off...as I await my shop manual....anyone have any insight as to how to remove the gears on the crankshaft?



    Last edited by Jamescmei; 05-27-2014 at 11:41 PM. Reason: found a case, no longer need one.


  2. #2
    Go to skiworx.com and look in the forum section. There will be a pdf manual there somewhere. The flywheel has to be pulled off using a special puller while the rear you have to lock the crank in a vice and use a breaker bar to get it off.

    You deff have a carb issue there, I would open them up to see what you are dealing with

  3. #3

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    Thank you TURBOMAN!!! I didn't find the manual yet but on the Skiworx forum I found a great crankcase 30 minutes from my house!!! ......now back to finding that puller. Thanks again!

    .....looks like the Pdf has been removed, link is dead, thanks though!
    Last edited by Jamescmei; 05-26-2014 at 09:54 PM. Reason: additional comments

  4. #4

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    Hey I got a good case and the shop manual, I have a few more questions with my pre-build.

    1. The special tools, flywheel puller PN 57001-1428, Rotor Holder PN 57001-1428, Coupling Holder PN 57001-1423 are these all necessary or is there a suitable replacement I can use or maybe handy "shop tactic" to circumvent their usage? Or does anyone wanna rent tools to me?

    2. ThreeBond vs the Kawi stuff? Kawi lists "Kawi Bond Liquid Gasket" PN 92104-1003 for the cases, and Kawi Bond PN 56019-120. Any recs?

    3. The manual directs to fill the oil reservoir while assembling the cases...seems dumb to have oil in there during assembly, can't I just pre fill later prior to start?

    4. Ordered a carb rebuild kit, is stock jetting recommended?.... or is there some better changes to be made or considered mandatory on the carbs other than clean and rebuilt?

    5. Can't find stock reed PN's, better aftermarket? or aftermarket ones to avoid? V-force? Boyesen? or stock just as good?

    6. Any weak areas that need to be checked or addressed or need special attention? Case? Assembly?

    7. Stock motor mounts or aftermarket WSM mounts? worth the savings?

    8. Any recommendations on assembly as far as gasket dressings are concerned, I read a lot about these assemblies sucking air. Is it best to install gaskets dry or coat them with something to help with the seal?

    This is my first PWC rebuild so any tips and info are much appreciated!
    Last edited by Jamescmei; 05-27-2014 at 09:40 PM. Reason: added #7 and 8

  5. #5
    Fat Man, Little Boat Region8Ultra250X's Avatar
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    12021-3711 - that is the part number for the reed assembly


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  7. #6

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    Thank You Region8!

  8. #7
    steve45's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jamescmei View Post

    1. The special tools, flywheel puller PN 57001-1428, Rotor Holder PN 57001-1428, Coupling Holder PN 57001-1423 are these all necessary or is there a suitable replacement I can use or maybe handy "shop tactic" to circumvent their usage? Or does anyone wanna rent tools to me?

    2. ThreeBond vs the Kawi stuff? Kawi lists "Kawi Bond Liquid Gasket" PN 92104-1003 for the cases, and Kawi Bond PN 56019-120. Any recs?

    3. The manual directs to fill the oil reservoir while assembling the cases...seems dumb to have oil in there during assembly, can't I just pre fill later prior to start?
    The tools can be obtained from SBT (one of the few things I'd recommend them for). I don't think you'll need the coupling holder, but you'll need a flywheel puller and flywheel holder so you can remove the front cover from the crankcase.

    I've used YamaBond on mine.

    You need oil in the crankcase reservoir for the balance shaft bearings, not to be confused with the oil tank.

  9. #8

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    So the oil for the balance shaft cannot be added later, after case halves are assembled? From what I understand the oil pump feeds the reservoir, so can't I use the fitting on the case to add oil after assembly?

  10. #9
    You can add the oil for the balance shafts later. Normally when I get a new to me ski I will pull the engine and drain the old oil out and replace with amsoil

    Wsm mounts are fine I run them, if you are feeling really groggy rass makes a set of poly mounts.

    Wsm also manufacturers the puller you need, I try to avoid supporting sbt.

    Stock jetting is fine, make sure those carbs are spotless and the skids aren't stuck.

    Replace all your fuel and oil lines while out

  11. #10

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    Quote Originally Posted by turboman412 View Post
    You can add the oil for the balance shafts later. Normally when I get a new to me ski I will pull the engine and drain the old oil out and replace with amsoil

    Wsm mounts are fine I run them, if you are feeling really groggy rass makes a set of poly mounts.

    Wsm also manufacturers the puller you need, I try to avoid supporting sbt.

    Stock jetting is fine, make sure those carbs are spotless and the skids aren't stuck.

    Replace all your fuel and oil lines while out
    Ok the oil pump feeds the reservoir during operation correct? I thought the only time you needed to change oil was if you converted to premix? Am I missing something?

    yeah, I don't feel cozy about SBT stuff, seems like PWC Walmart to me. If I spend the time to do it I don't want to risk inferior parts. The older I get the more I like OEM.

    carbs spotless...got it!

    thanks!

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