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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Massachusetts
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    Yamaha QSTS on RXP-X

    Well, it fought me every step of the way, but it CAN be done, and I think it will work well. I'm currently at work, but I will take some pics and post them up later tonight. I took apart my VTS to see if I could change out the motor and get it to work, but what I found was a lump of corroded crap. Even the wiring was shot, so I decided to circle file the whole system and try to put a manual system on it. Kudos to my buddy with the GPR who graciously donated his trim system to me because, as he puts it - "I never use it".

    Some notes:
    1) You will have to drill through the hull to mount the bracket. There's just no other way to make it work.
    2) You will have fun taking the stock grip off. I gave up and just took it off a piece at a time.
    3) You will have to shave down the handlebar a bit (not sure if that was just my luck or if that's the case for all). The sleeve was a tight fit, so I removed all of the paint and filed the bar down a bit.
    4) You will have to drill and tap the handlebar. The QSTS needs to be mounted rigidly to the handlebar. It's also fun trying to hit the threads just right while bent over backwards over the footwell.
    5) You will lose the housing for the start button. I have mine ziptied to the handlebar, but I will look into a more elegant solution.
    6) You will need to extend the through-hull fitting. The Yamaha mounts to 1/8" of fiberglass whereas the SD has an 1 1/2" tunnel. A PVC 1 1/2" pipe extender did the trick. I also MarineTexed it in place for peace of mind.
    7) After all is said and done, the trim rod is still 1 3/4" too long. So, I fabbed up a v-bracket using plates from an 1 3/4" and 2" stainless U-bolts. This also required a second hole be drilled below the original mount on the steering nozzle. It is ugly, but it works and nobody will ever see it. I had to offset the plates so the trim rod would not hit the bolt head on the bottom hole.
    I also had to clearance the reverse bucket a bit for the bracket bolts as they would hit slightly at full lock. Not a big deal, but just a finishing touch.

    After all is said and done, I get full trim up in the full up position(essential for the wave jumping I love to do), and the trim is very slightly up in neutral position, so I have 2 positions of down trim to play with if necessary. I still have to replace the head gasket before I can go test it out, but I hope this is a very reliable solution to the issues of the stock system.

    Eric


  2. #2
    RGUN's Avatar
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    Sounds interesting. Pictures?

  3. #3
    ou812's Avatar
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    I did this on my 07 RXT about 3 years ago. A gpr setup was used.
    Osidebill (R.I.P) did the job and it worked perfectly!!

    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...=1#post1657037

  4. #4
    ou812's Avatar
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    5) You will lose the housing for the start button. I have mine ziptied to the handlebar, but I will look into a more elegant solution.

    A more elegant solution is out there.. Look near the throttle.
    Choose your color

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/130833060754?lpid=82
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  5. #5
    Tiny's Avatar
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    Why would you want to get rid of adjustment on the fly for something you have to let off the throttle for, shift, then back on the throttle???

    Sure it is lighter weight, but I know several racers who got rid of the QSTS and put BRP VTS in their Yami's....

  6. #6

    Join Date
    Feb 2006
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    Massachusetts
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    The problem with the VTS is that it was completely shot, so I added something cheap and reliable. I don't ever have to shift on the fly, so that is not a problem for me. I hope the pics work...
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