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  1. #1

    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Location
    North Carolina
    Posts
    46

    Rear Engine Compartment - Gas Shock Replacement - Speedster 150 - Save $$$

    Just thought I would pass this along...My gas shocks for the engine bay needed to be replaced and OEM were $60+ per shock...and then add shipping AND wait time...etc.

    I took the shock to Advanced Autoparts and sized it up and they had one that worked just fine for half the cost.

    The part number was: 4989 and was manufactured by "Strong Arm"...

    Now I will tell you...maybe i had been using weak shocks for so long but when i installed the new ones the engine compartment shot right up...so all this to say...it worked for me and saved me $$$ but you'll need to decide for yourself. Just throwing this option out there.

    I have a 2007 Speedster 215hpClick image for larger version. 

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  2. #2
    Thanks, good info.

  3. #3

    Join Date
    May 2014
    Location
    Central Texas
    Posts
    3

    Struts

    I had pulled off one of my engine cover struts this morning to look for a replacement. I just go the boat, a 2009 150 Speedster 255hp, two weeks ago and I didn't even know the engine cover was supposed to open on it's own until I saw it in a video review on Youtube. Mine was working more like opening a car hood, pull the T-handle and then reach back and lift up on the engine cover. It didn't take alot of force to lift and would stay open on it's own, it just wasn't opening on it's own. The front compartment strut was bad too, it wouldn't even hold the lid open so you had to hold it open to pull the T-handle and as soon as you let go of the front compartment lid to reach for the engine cover the front compartment would slam shut. If the engine cover latch had clicked back shut before you got a hand on it to open it this was a pain. Not realizing the engine cover was supposed to open on it's own I had been thinking it was a stupid design, it makes more sense know realizing my struts are just a little week.

    I had already ordered the front compartment strut last week using the Sea Doo part number off the strut. It brought up a new replacement part number that said it was a strut including a dust boot for $35. I ordered it online and I don't think it has even shipped yet. Not having any way to know the specs for lift force I figured it was best to just order the Sea Doo part.

    The Strong Arm part number you used is rated at 70lbs and looks like the rod end is angled. The factory strut has a Signature part number instead of a Sea Doo part number so it was easy to look up the specs. It is only rated at 50lbs. With the brackets being screwed only to fiberglass I am worried about using a strut that is rated 40% higher than the factory part. Looking up struts rated at 50lbs they are $25-29 depending on if you want to upgrade to quick detach ends. Looking up the Sea Doo part number on the exploded diagram, 204071920, they want $125 for it.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Colorado Springs
    Posts
    68
    +1
    3

    Don't waste money on oem shock for front compartment

    Quote Originally Posted by Brazos609 View Post
    I had pulled off one of my engine cover struts this morning to look for a replacement. I just go the boat, a 2009 150 Speedster 255hp, two weeks ago and I didn't even know the engine cover was supposed to open on it's own until I saw it in a video review on Youtube. Mine was working more like opening a car hood, pull the T-handle and then reach back and lift up on the engine cover. It didn't take alot of force to lift and would stay open on it's own, it just wasn't opening on it's own. The front compartment strut was bad too, it wouldn't even hold the lid open so you had to hold it open to pull the T-handle and as soon as you let go of the front compartment lid to reach for the engine cover the front compartment would slam shut. If the engine cover latch had clicked back shut before you got a hand on it to open it this was a pain. Not realizing the engine cover was supposed to open on it's own I had been thinking it was a stupid design, it makes more sense know realizing my struts are just a little week.

    I had already ordered the front compartment strut last week using the Sea Doo part number off the strut. It brought up a new replacement part number that said it was a strut including a dust boot for $35. I ordered it online and I don't think it has even shipped yet. Not having any way to know the specs for lift force I figured it was best to just order the Sea Doo part.

    The Strong Arm part number you used is rated at 70lbs and looks like the rod end is angled. The factory strut has a Signature part number instead of a Sea Doo part number so it was easy to look up the specs. It is only rated at 50lbs. With the brackets being screwed only to fiberglass I am worried about using a strut that is rated 40% higher than the factory part. Looking up struts rated at 50lbs they are $25-29 depending on if you want to upgrade to quick detach ends. Looking up the Sea Doo part number on the exploded diagram, 204071920, they want $125 for it.
    The front shock is weak and OEM will always close with some wind, so buy a much heavier one and one that holds all the way down like the engine lid. Also very dangerous with the pointed ends! Also add a manual lock ring to the shaft that holds the lid up. This is the firm i bought mine. http://www.drillspot.com/
    Ron

  5. #5
    This is how I run a jetski shop in the desert nmpeter's Avatar
    Join Date
    May 2008
    Location
    Elephant Butte New Mexico
    Posts
    6,528
    +1
    1,276
    I've been using strong arm struts on everything for years good stuff..fair prices(at least on amazon). replace them in pairs and make SURE you install them correctly (right side up as indicated on the install sheet)

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