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  1. #1

    98 SLH - No spark

    I bought a 98 700 SLH not running. Once home with it, we decided to start from scratch and attempt to start it. Based off the info I have read on this forum, I am pretty sure it has an updated stator and CDI kit. To my surprise, it had spark and started with some gas sprayed into the carbs. During the process of trying to figure out why gas wasn't making it to the carbs, it was started several times and eventually we lost the spark. I attempted to do some of the electrical tests with my basic volt/alt meter. The one test that probably tells me the most is the volt reading to the coil while cranking. . .only 4 volts. . .and I believe that it should be around 40 volts? I have plenty of battery power with a good battery and the drizzle charger keeping it charged up. ..with between 13 and 14 volts present. I have included pics of the wiring box and cdi so you can see which ones I have and to possibly help me determine whether or not the wires are in the right spot. Here are a few questions:

    1) There is a grey wire that comes out of the cdi that isn't hooked to anything. ..should it be?

    2) Having spark at first tells me that the wiring is hooked up right. ..but to loose it tells me that there is something not working right. . .does this sound like a stator issue?

    3) I have read about how important grounding is. . .as far as I can see. ..the only ground on this machine comes out of the electrical box and to the negative post of the battery. ..should there be others?

    4) I have yet to find a thread on the process of pulling the fly wheel off of one of these 700's while in the machine. ..is it better to pull the motor rather than fight it?

    5) Its my understanding that if I have the upgraded cdi. ..and the stator is bad. ..then I can run the 2000 model stator?

    Anyway. . .I have spent allot of time on here trying to figure this out. ..and thanks to everyone for contributing. ..but. ..any help with this would be greatly appreciated.
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  2. #2

    Join Date
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    Did you try resetting it? Push button on top of box. On my 780 grey is for limp mode not sure on the 700 thou. I just bought polaris myself I had to reset mine when I got it. Now having fuel issues. Lots of cool guys on here sure some one will know for sure

  3. #3
    Ya. ..the reset button hasn't been tripped. That would be way to easy. ..my luck doesn't run that way. What ever the issue is. ..it will be located in the hardest to see and get to location possible.

  4. #4

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    Lol how my luck goes to. Figured you did but had to ask. There will prolly be guys on later that can help. They all at the lake Sure they can help figure it out thou.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    It does appear you have the updated CDI. Since you had spark for a while I will assume it also has the updated stator.

    The only battery voltage that matters is the voltage while the engine is actually cranking. When the engine is cranking the battery voltage must stay above 10.6 volts.

    Hold down the Bilge button on handlebar. Bilge pump should run. Keep holding Bilge button down and press Start. Do you now have spark?

    Lanyard must be in place of course.

    Some CDI have a problem where the engine will not restart unless you wait about five minutes. If this is happening there is a Service Bulletin PWC-00-05 that changes the power feed wiring to the CDI. It corrects the no-warm-restart problem.

    Note: When the updated ignition is installed the thin black wire between electrical box and battery negative post is supposed to be deleted/removed/disconnected. The ground for the updated electrical box goes through the stator cable Black wire to the engine block.

  6. #6
    I will try your suggestions and see what I find. One other little tid bit of info that I didn't mention. ..when I first put a charged battery in it. ..with the lanyard unhooked. ..when I touched the positive lead to the positive post. ..it sparked just a bit which tells me there is a small amp draw going somewhere? I don't think this should be the case. I left the battery in it over night and I am going to see if it is run down at this point. . .then I will know that there is a voltage draw from something. Thank you for the tips. . .

  7. #7
    Ok. ..this machine is doing some weird things. . .I think it is showing signs of having a psycho cdi box. I bought a new battery and hooked a trickle charger to it. ..did the crank test. ..plenty of crank volts left. . .and we had spark again? So what the hay. ..zipped the plugs back in. . .dripped some gas down the carbs and it fired right up. ..sounded great. So. . .at that point I switched gears and started chasing the gas issue. While starting it a few times with gas being poured down the carbs. ..it wouldn't start. I figured the spark would be gone like before. ..however. . .this time the spark was still there. ..put the plugs back in to try it again thinking maybe we choked it with to much gas...then it started backfiring and snorting out the carbs while cranking? It sounds like to me that the cdi is delivering the spark out of time now?

    Fyi. ..I also moved the ground wire that came out of the box to the negative terminal of the battery to a bolt on the engine? Not sure what this would do. . .but. ..thats what it says to do if you have the upgraded cdi/stator. The stator ground wire comes in the box and grounds with the cdi ground on the ground post close to the starting solenoid. Is this the way the ground is suppose to be?

    The other question I wonder about is the ski wont start after warmed up and you have to do that jumper wire process. . .service bulletin PWC - 00- 05? I would make sense that this thing started fine when I first tried it. ..then lost spark. It sat for a day. ..then we tried it again and it started again! So.. .maybe its that bug that needs fixed?

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  8. #8
    David Drkvampire2001's Avatar
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    You mentioned you move the negative that went from the box to the battery, and relocated. dont do this, you need to cut that wire.

  9. #9
    Ok. ..see in the pic. . .the black one that hooks in on the top of the ground post. . .thats the one that was hooked to the negative battery post. . .then moved it from the post to a bolt on the motor. ..so. . .you saying to basically get rid of this wire? You can see the black one coming out of the cdi to the grounding post. ..and the other black one on the bottom goes to the stator. . .guess this is all I need right? I will go try this and see what if it does anything new. THANKS!

  10. #10
    David Drkvampire2001's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by dteeter View Post
    Ok. ..see in the pic. . .the black one that hooks in on the top of the ground post. . .thats the one that was hooked to the negative battery post. . .then moved it from the post to a bolt on the motor. ..so. . .you saying to basically get rid of this wire? You can see the black one coming out of the cdi to the grounding post. ..and the other black one on the bottom goes to the stator. . .guess this is all I need right? I will go try this and see what if it does anything new. THANKS!
    Yes the negative cable that was on the Negative battery terminal, cut it, remove it it is no longer needed, that was grounding the box. the update kit if i remember correctly grounds threw the stator. no need for the other to be there. please read this thread about it http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/showthread.php?t=179488

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