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  1. #1

    2001 virage (fuel injected) 1200 no spark

    I have a 2001 polaris virage tx 1200 (fuel injected) a very important difference from what I have learned. I have read a lot of the post and I am a little confused about what ski each post is talking about. My problem is that the ski has no spark. I tested the start stop module and the motor would not even turn over even when I held the bilge button down. Does this mean it is bad? And if so does anyone on here have one for sale thanks.


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome

    How did you 'test' the Start/Stop module?

    The normal method is to disconnect the LR-503 Start/Stop module and slightly change the wiring to bypass the module for testing.

    Does the MFI display work properly? Does it say LOCKED when you press the Start button?

  3. #3
    I pulled all wires off of the module and plugged the black and white onto the solid black clip. The display is working and shows unlocked.

  4. #4
    Originally it stopped firing while riding and then my son's friend sold it to me. The fuse that went to the display was blown and it had no battery to test so I bought a new one and did all the proper charging but it only shows 10.1 cranking volts, I will change the battery out but it does not explain why the start stop module test did not allow the engine to spin over. Hook the module back up and it spins over fine.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by buckijezek View Post
    I pulled all wires off of the module and plugged the black and white onto the solid black clip.
    The display is working and shows unlocked.
    There are two Black/White wires. To be clear, the one that must be grounded for the LR bypass is the Black/White wire from the wire harness, not the Black/White wire from the LR module.

    With the LR module bypassed the start circuit is almost straightforward. The Start button delivers 12 volt battery power to the solenoid coil directly via a Yellow/Red wire. From the solenoid coil there is a Black/White wire that has been temporarily connected to ground (per the bypass instructions).

    When the Start button is pressed it should deliver battery voltage to one side of the solenoid coil. Since the other side of the coil is grounded the solenoid should make a loud click.

    With the solenoid energized the heavy stud on the solenoid and connected red cable feeding the starter motor should also have battery voltage and the engine should crank.

    Note that the original start solenoids are known to corrode internally and fail. If your solenoid is black plastic with a metal backing plate, it should be replaced. Even if it still seems good it can fail at any time, perhaps stranding you on the water or even worse, locking into the crank mode (even without your finger on the Start button) and burning out the starter motor.
    Last edited by K447; 06-04-2014 at 01:08 PM.

  6. #6
    Thanks, I plugged in the wrong wire. I am good with mechanical aspect but have not ventured into the specific electronics. ok, I will change the battery and run the test again this evening. I will let you know

  7. #7
    K, I changed the battery and I have 11.5 on cranking, did the module test (correct this time) it turned over fine but still no spark. Display is working fine. What should I do next.

  8. #8
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by buckijezek View Post
    K, I changed the battery and I have 11.5 on cranking, did the module test (correct this time) it turned over fine but still no spark. Display is working fine. What should I do next.
    Lanyard in place, just to be sure.

    Check the injector voltage on White/Red wires. Connect Black meter probe to engine ground or battery negative post. Connect red meter probe to somewhere on a White/Red wire. Do not unplug an injector, find another place to touch the meter probe to White/Red wire. When engine is cranking the injector voltage should jump up to over 20 volts.

    If the injector voltage is not strong or is near zero when cranking then there is not enough power for the EMM to run the engine. Just in case, make sure the EMM connectors are firmly plugged in and the loopback 4-pin diagnostic connector is also plugged together.

  9. #9
    Yes sir the lanyard was in, I won't be home until later to test the inj voltage but if it matters you can hear them clicking nice and strong.
    Thanks

  10. #10
    What would cause the voltage to be low going to the emm?

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