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  1. #1

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    FZR SC clutch upgrade ????

    So I have a 2009 FZR and a week ago I tore out the mid gear and SC clutch gear. I will be pulling the motor this weekend.

    So my question is this.

    I would like to get some recommendations on which way I should go. The dealer has the upgraded clutch kit OEM for approx. $650. Riva has the same kit except the mid gear has a built in damper and it's a 2 piece unit and is $1000. I don't want to have to do this again so I am leaning to the Riva kit.

    So I ask you for your advice/experience in this and your recommendation?

    Thank you.


  2. #2
    search button, you dont have to pull the motor to do thisjob! 2014 oem part number there is slight improved variations from the 13 part numbers.

  3. #3
    KamikazeGPR's Avatar
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    There have only been a handful of reported 2013 clutch failures here on the forum and that is with the OEM idler gear. So is spending all that extra cash for the riva gear worth it. Does it really do what it claims to do. How many people are using it, how many have failed while using it(I haven't read of anyone using it, or any failing while using it). This is with the new riva dampner that has the proper number of teeth to use with the 2013 clutch.

    There have been failures pre-2013 clutch even when using the riva dampner. So, it wasn't a cure all. $650 is the retail price for the 2013 clutch and idler gear set. You can buy it from discount internet yamaha dealers for $455, plus the oil pump gasket(and the optional oil line o-rings and gear bolt that yamaha has listed as not re-usable, but people have) So, $500 range.

    My original 09 clutch crapped at 161 hours at end of last season(october). I had it replaced under extended warranty that was due to expire in FEB. so I get to start this season with the new clutch installed. The dealer billed yamaha 6.5 hours at $105/hour to replace. I'm sure that mechanic knocked it out in less than 3 hours, he's done so many. He didn't even drain the oil from the ski. he used a hoist to elevate the front of trailer to force oil to rear of engine when removing oil pump. Guys on this forum that have done more than 1 can do it in 3 hours or less.

    Not to take money from riva, but at this point. I just don't see the need or benefit of the riva dampner due to so few failures of the 2013 clutch in general. If you have the extra cash to burn now. I'd pass on the dampner and maybe buy a 2nd clutch for the future. Or use the $$ for 10 tanks of gas and enjoy riding.
    Last edited by KamikazeGPR; 06-04-2014 at 11:15 PM.

  4. #4

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    I would upgrade the clutch and shaft. go riva or R&D both are good from what I have read.

  5. #5
    fx160's Avatar
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    I had the dampner on my old clutch
    And my clutch lasted aprox 90 hours with a low boost wheel
    Mates with the same setup were lasting just over 40 hours
    And a mate with an E1 wheel has been wearing out clutches at just on 40 hours
    Including 2 x 2013 clutches
    I have now fitted a 2013 setup
    And have 30 hours on it so far
    I didn't go with the dampner as I feel if rather spend the money on a new clutch
    As they are getting better
    + I paid $899 for the first dampner that it now worthless

  6. #6
    Ale's Avatar
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    my first 2009 clutch with stock ski 180 hours with no issue.
    Now I upgraded to 2013 clutch + gear dampener... it took me 4/5 hours with engine in place.
    you will need:
    2013 cluch
    2013 idle gear or riva gear dampener
    clutch gasket
    4 oil pump orings (but you can use your stock if in good conditions)
    4 new oil washer
    R&D tool for clucth repair
    dinamometric tool
    and... obviously
    a good mirror

  7. #7
    fx160's Avatar
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    If you are going to do it yourself , I would suggest putting a large rag in the bottom of the hull to stop bolts or tools from going under the motor
    It takes me just over 2 and a half hours

    And you do need the clutch holding tool to get the clutch bolt off

  8. #8

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    The reason I have to pull the motor is to remove the missing teeth from the damaged gears. They all went into the oil pan.

  9. #9
    flipsfzr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fx160 View Post
    If you are going to do it yourself , I would suggest putting a large rag in the bottom of the hull to stop bolts or tools from going under the motor
    It takes me just over 2 and a half hours

    And you do need the clutch holding tool to get the clutch bolt off
    Actually you don't need the clutch tool, a pneumatic air gun on a low setting is how I got my nut off and on, worked a treat just remember its reverse thread

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  11. #10

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    Good tip on using an air gun to remove the bolt.

    So, is the upgraded OEM replacement the same one as the 2013 clutch?

    Thanks for all the help so far.

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