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  1. #1

    98 XP wont crank

    Here is what I have confirmed.

    1) Beeper doesn't work. When I put a test light on one of the beeper wires...hook up the lanyard...nothing happens. Not getting the two beeps.

    2) If I push the start button without the lanyard...the test light comes on...and stays on...meaning that if the beeper would be giving a constant tone. After about 8 to 10 seconds it shuts off.

    3) I probed the yellow/red wire going into the start button....its hot all the time. When probing the black wire coming out of the start switch while pushing the start switch....the black wire doesn't go hot...which I think it should to send power to the starting solenoid?

    4) Good fresh and charged battery and I am pretty sure the main ground is good.

    5) I have not had a dealer test the lanyard. ..and I don't know if the post is what is a fault? Is there any way to test the lanyard post?

    Any help would be appreciated.

  2. #2
    I have 3 97 XP 800s. . .identical. Machine 1 - runs Machine 2 - new motor hooking everything up - wont give 2 beeps and wont crank. Machine P - Parts

    Since I have one running machine and plenty of parts. ..I did a part swapping party. . .starting with the MPEM.. .which ran fine on M1. This test also confirmed that the lanyard key is good.

    Next I figured it was could be a bad lanyard post. . .due to the PITA its to get to and since I have the parts machine already apart. ..I took the lanyard post off of the part machine and tried it. . .still the same. change. Highly unlikely that two different lanyard posts would produce the same issue.

    When you put the key on. ..there are not beeps...nothing happens. But. . .if you push the start button. ..the trim gauge comes to life and it gives a solid tone for about 8 to 10 seconds...then turns off. I read on here where a faulty water temp sending unit have cause a solid tone. ..and the connector on this one was kinda jacked a bit. . .so. . .I unhooked it and nothing changed.

    When you short the solenoid posts it cranks. . .

    Next on list was the coil box. Swapped out the M1 & M2 boxes. ..M1 fired up normal. ..M2. . .same issue. . .so. . .that eliminated the coil box.

    That leaves a couple of items to deal with. The start switch and the stator area? This is where could use some help. . .please!!!!!!

  3. #3
    Does anyone know if there are sensors that if not working properly will shut down the starting circuit? Like the oil level sensor? If so. . .what are is the test for these sensors? You have the temp sending unit as well.

  4. #4

    Join Date
    May 2013
    fargo nd
    If when you hold down the start switch, and you have hot coming in, but nothing going out, you probably have a bad start switch. Can you bypass it in some way? Some switches have a pigtail after 10-12inches into the hull, where you can unplug and make a jumper, but others go into the main wire harness all the way to the start solenoid. Oil level sensor shouldn't stop you from running, mine is unplugged. My ski is 00 though, never know.

    If you don't mind it, I took out my start switch recently, cut it open (its rubber sealed, easy to open) and cleaned the contacts, put it together and used silicon to seal it. This will get you going temporarily, but you need to get a new one, possibly.

    BTW, just be sure you had a good read on your test light, first. If you have a power probe, you could send power to that wire with no power on the start switch to try and start it, or bypass it in some way. Ghetto, but you will get a positive answer.

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