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  1. #1

    No Spark after PWC-00-05 done on Polaris Virage Tx 2000. Please help:)

    Hello everyone! Would like to thank you all for letting me be a parts of this forum, have gotten so much info here in the past. Before I decided to create a new threat I can assure you I spend looking for hours to make sure this question have never been asked before. Could not find anything anywhere, as you can see got nothing.
    Recently I purchased Polaris Virage TX 2000, it needed new fuel lines, carb cleaned, new ignition wires, spark plugs, bilge pump. Gave a good tune up basically and got it running nice and smooth out of water, came to the lake to adjust the carbs and ran fine while adjusting ( just dipped the back portion of the PWC).

    The next time I decided to actually run it but right of the bet PWC would not start, it did cranked over nice and fast and for a second was about to start and than nothing. NO SPARK at this point. Drugged it home and started to look for problem. At this point the battery is completely dead, charged it overnight and while it was recovering I did PWC-00-05 on it. the next day still no spark, but when I reverse it and plug it back to RED/PURPLE terminal its starts right up. I really dont want to be stranded in the middle of the lake and actually perform PWC-00-05 but I cannot get no power to the ORANGE terminal, unless bilge pump button is depressed. Thinking the problem was LR-505 I got one on eBay used but OEM. replaced it and still got nothing. The PWC runs fine with RED/PURPLE wire from cdi plugged in to RED/PURPLE terminal on the board but not to ORANGE. The yellow that goes to LR has constant 13.2 volts when ski is off and 10.8 volts when cranking. The battery terminals (+-) shows 14.2 volts and 11.6 cranking. Also tested start switch, lanyard switch, both checks out fine (0.3ohm when activated).
    What are the chanced of the replaced LR module to be also bad in the same way?!
    Is there anyway to test as to why this module does not put out any volts on ORANGE wire when cranking?
    Please fellow riders help me !!!!


  2. #2
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Welcome.

    The Service Bulletin PWC-00-05 is intended to correct a no-warm-restart condition on some CDI. If your CDI starts and restarts properly without being connected to Orange, then it is not necessary to change it from the original direct connection to Red/Purple.

    I suggest you configure your CDI to factory Red/Purple connection and check for proper restarting. If later on you discover it is not always restarting while you are riding, you can simply wait several minutes for the CDI to time out and then it will restart. Only then is it necessary to implement the wiring change to connect the CDI to Orange.

    Does the bilge pump run when you press the Bilge button? If not, check the 3 Amp bilge fuse. Also check that the bilge pump is not shorted or otherwise failed.


    Regarding the no voltage on Orange, recheck the Black ground connection on the LR module. The LR module Orange output depends on proper connections to (at a minimum) Ground (Black), Red/Purple, Yellow. The ground connections should all measure zero ohms (less than 1.0 ohms) back to the engine block.

    These same three connections are used for controlling the battery charging when the engine is running. Connect your multimeter to the battery, engine off. Voltage should be very close to 12.5 volts. If the voltage is below 12.0 volts the battery is too weak, even if has been recently charged.

    These engines require a really strong battery. Crank the engine with lanyard out and watch your voltmeter. During cranking the battery voltage must stay well above 10.6 volts. If the voltage sags close to or below 10.6 volts then the battery is weak. A battery that is internally degraded needs to be replaced, charging it will not reverse the internal degradation.

    Now put the lanyard in and start the engine. Battery voltage should promptly rise to about 14.5 volts. This is the LR module charging the battery. If instead the battery voltage stays below 13.5 volts then the charging system is not working.

    It is possible the used LR module you purchased is not working. Check all the connections to the module. If everything around the LR module is correct but it is not charging the battery or not providing Orange output then the module is no good.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by K447 View Post
    Welcome.

    The Service Bulletin PWC-00-05 is intended to correct a no-warm-restart condition on some CDI. If your CDI starts and restarts properly without being connected to Orange, then it is not necessary to change it from the original direct connection to Red/Purple.

    I suggest you configure your CDI to factory Red/Purple connection and check for proper restarting. If later on you discover it is not always restarting while you are riding, you can simply wait several minutes for the CDI to time out and then it will restart. Only then is it necessary to implement the wiring change to connect the CDI to Orange.

    Does the bilge pump run when you press the Bilge button? If not, check the 3 Amp bilge fuse. Also check that the bilge pump is not shorted or otherwise failed.


    Regarding the no voltage on Orange, recheck the Black ground connection on the LR module. The LR module Orange output depends on proper connections to (at a minimum) Ground (Black), Red/Purple, Yellow. The ground connections should all measure zero ohms (less than 1.0 ohms) back to the engine block.

    These same three connections are used for controlling the battery charging when the engine is running. Connect your multimeter to the battery, engine off. Voltage should be very close to 12.5 volts. If the voltage is below 12.0 volts the battery is too weak, even if has been recently charged.

    These engines require a really strong battery. Crank the engine with lanyard out and watch your voltmeter. During cranking the battery voltage must stay well above 10.6 volts. If the voltage sags close to or below 10.6 volts then the battery is weak. A battery that is internally degraded needs to be replaced, charging it will not reverse the internal degradation.

    Now put the lanyard in and start the engine. Battery voltage should promptly rise to about 14.5 volts. This is the LR module charging the battery. If instead the battery voltage stays below 13.5 volts then the charging system is not working.

    It is possible the used LR module you purchased is not working. Check all the connections to the module. If everything around the LR module is correct but it is not charging the battery or not providing Orange output then the module is no good.

    Thank you for the fast response k447.
    I have checked ground to Lr and it checks out fine less then 1 ohm.
    The voltage at the battery shows 13.4 and droops to 11 to 10.6,10.8, ski starts fine but runs very poorly, does not idle at all. Did check the battery voltage when off its stays around 13.2 and does not go up when skis runs, looks like it NOT charging. (although i did see a spike to 14 volts for half a second ones)
    Also, when bilge pump button pressed it works but does not when ski is running.
    No power to ORANGE terminal even when the ski runs.
    Thank you in advance!

  4. #4
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by les4 View Post
    ... ski starts fine but runs very poorly, does not idle at all...
    If the battery is healthy then the engine should start and run properly even without the charging system working.

    Restore the CDI wiring to all Red/Purple connected together. Disconnect and bypass the LR-505 module.

    Engine should start and run normally. Once it has warmed up for a few seconds it should idle, but may need some choke applied since it would not be fully warmed up.

    Does the MFI display work properly? Sometimes a dead display can mess with the ignition and cause weird running symptoms (but nothing to do with the battery charging aspect).

  5. #5
    Will read on how to bypass LR and perform it now, The mfi seems to be working ok, it was replaced with a used one as when I got the ski it was fried. Along with a fuse, bilge pump and fuse for bilge pump. after i replaced all of it it idle very smoothly. P>S when i unplug mfi and jump two wires for spark it still runs the same.

  6. #6
    Cant seems to find good direction on how to bypass the LR module. Do you by any chance have any info on it?

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by les4 View Post
    Cant seems to find good direction on how to bypass the LR module. Do you by any chance have any info on it?
    http://www.greenhulk.net/forums/show...05#post2391083

  8. #8
    Hello. Thank you for you time.
    I did disconnected LR Module by leaving black and white wire on the ground terminal. Ski is completely dead and wont respond to start button at all. I am not sure if I did it the correct way, did not have any time to recheck, started to rain. Hopefully tomorrow will continue working on it. Is there any other reason why the Orange wire wont have any power on it, and the fact that its not charging indicates bad LR module or something else can be a problem>?. Ski starts and runs badly but runs, if we do bypass LR what sort of thing should we look for?



  9. #9
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by les4 View Post
    ... I did disconnected LR Module by leaving black and white wire on the ground terminal.
    Ski is completely dead and wont respond to start button at all.

    ... Is there any other reason why the Orange wire wont have any power on it, and the fact that its not charging indicates bad LR module or something else can be a problem>?.

    Ski starts and runs badly but runs,

    if we do bypass LR what sort of thing should we look for? ...
    When bypassed all the wires from the LR module are disconnected, including the Black/White.

    There is another, separate Black/White wire, which is not attached to the LR module. It is this other Black/White wire that is moved to the Black terminal to enable the Start button.

    The reason for bypassing the LR module is to confirm that the module is or is not affecting the proper running of the engine. Sometimes a bad LR Start/Stop module can cause weird engine running symptoms.

  10. #10
    Thank you. Rained outside all afternoon. I have disconnected LR-module completely. Taped the ends. Black/white wire (not the one from module) grounded and tried to start the engine. No luck at this point, engine cranks but does not starts NO SPARK either. Just for the heck of it tried to connect red/purple and engine did started right away.
    What do u think all of this means?

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