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  1. #1

    MFD problems need help

    Hello I have a 1997 polaris sltx that I have owned for three years now. I love it. After a long winter I finally decided to take it out on the water yesterday. Everything was going great until my MFD completely shut off putting me in limp mode. I tried getting it to turn back on but no luck. When I went to go replace the 1/4 amp fuse it was fine. After looking closer I noticed someone stuck a 15amp fuse in there instead of a 1/4 amp so I'm sure my mfd is fried. Anyways questions are. Do I have to put in the same MFD model# 3280271 in there? Would the same one with a different model number work? For example like one out of a 97 slt 780? Any help would be greatly appreciated!


  2. #2
    BlueFishCrisis's Avatar
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    The MFDs seem to be fairly interchangeable as long as the connectors on the back are the same (8 pin vs 12 pin). Some have different features like compass and trim. I have not had any issues with many different models on the same ski with most functions. I have even had trim appear on a gauge that wasn't labelled for trim........

    Be sure to find the root cause of the bad MFD to prevent it from happening again. Obviously someone installed a 15 amp fuse when frustrated with a continuously blowing 1/4 amp fuse...

  3. #3
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    The 15 Amp fuse would put the MFD at risk primarily when some other electrical event occurs, such as reversed battery connections. The fragile 1/4 Amp OEM fuse is supposed to blow fast enough to protect the MFD from such things, but unless something was done wrong the 15 Amp fuse probably did not cause the MFD failure.

    If your MFD just decided that now was the time to leave this earth, then the 15 Amp fuse might have allowed it to more fully roast. But the MFD was already failed internally.

    Unplug the MFD connector on the back of the display, this should allow the engine to run normally. No warnings or display features of course. A dead display can sometimes cause the engine to run poorly, hence the unplugging if the display is not working.

    Physically you can install any version of oval MFD into any machine. There is a variant with two threaded posts and thumb screws on the rear which are used for mounting on some models.

    If your machine has electric trim then the MFD needs to match the trim motor 'speed'. Most MFD are 'normal, aka slow' trim while the MFD displays for the Pro watercraft and some SLX use a 'fast' trim MFD indicator to match the fast trim motor.

    Most of the minor model differences in MFD relate to speedometer accuracy. Different hulls have different water pressure profiles from the pitot fin in the pump tunnel so the MFD are calibrated to the hull model. Swapping in a different MFD the speed reading may be less accurate. Not that these displays were ever 100% speedometer accurate anyways.

  4. #4
    Thanks you both for the help !! That definitely answered my questions! I'll just find another one then and replace it.

  5. #5
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polaris_1050 View Post
    ... I'll just find another one then and replace it.
    I may be interested in the dead MFD. I need a few to scavenge for parts.

    Is the faceplate and clear plastic front in good condition?

    Were both buttons working properly before it died?

  6. #6
    Face plate cracked when I removed it but the clear plastic is great. Numbers and stuff displayed very clearly before it went out and yes both buttons worked.

  7. #7
    Click avatar for tech links/info, donation request K447's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Polaris_1050 View Post
    Face plate cracked when I removed it but the clear plastic is great. Numbers and stuff displayed very clearly before it went out and yes both buttons worked.
    Good enough for my purposes.

    PM me and we can work something out.

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